Mopar1973Man

The lowest continual temp I've seen is about 450*F... But typically roads a really slick, icy, and outside temp are a minus number of some sort...

Well I got one side tore apart and found basically a drum full of mud/dirt so I'm going to say the mud was what froze/bound up the parking brakes. But I'm going over it completely cleaning everything and getting the dirt/debris out if it all... On other other side of the coin I don't think I'm going to make 200K on my brake pads... Getting rather thin...

Really pretty place you got Russ Even with the buckets of snow! As for me there is very little snow to be had but freezing cold weather for the last few days...

Last time I looked at the owners manual GCWR of 20,000# and Max Trailer weight ~13,000# is all the truck is rated for out of the factory... But on the other had you might want to talk to CajFlynn he happens to be the heavy weight puller here on the forum pulling so huge boats cross country with a automatic transmission...

Well got up this morning to park the trailer and the E Brake is frozen and will not release... I got it to roll but brakes make a ungawdly sqeaking noise backing up. So I got the truck in the shop and I'm going to rip into the rear axle and see whats going on..

Yea... Grab a cup of your favorite beverage and start reading if you don't find the answer ask I'm sure someone will answer your question if not... I'm sure some here knows of some that might be able to answer it. Welcome...

I share the neighbor ATV to plow his driveway and mine... But he hates the snow and the cold...

In that case I would separate all the cable and work with each one separate and find out which one is bound up. Once you find it you might coil it up in the bottom of a bucket and cover with engine oil and see if you can free it up. (Crazy idea)

Ummm... All of valves are 4 foot under ground below the frost line... Like in my shop I've got a few pipes out ther going to the water heater. I draped a plastic drop cloth over the water heater and threw my over-alls on top of that... Then the pipes are also rapped with heat tape too.. Then like this morning I'll take the truck out and warm up (after unhitching the trailer) and the park it in the shop warm and them plug in the block heater this will keep the shop right at 32-35*F... Why waste the block heater heat... I keep my pipes warm with it..

I've been using 15w-40 in mine winter or summer I just allow time for the oil to warm slightly before taking off. Like the last few day of seeing -11*F doesn't seem to bother it... But now getting down to -20 or -30*F is getting colder yet... Wild & Free is one of our guys that stuck in the freezer of ND...

Now if you pyrometer is in the rear half of the manifold it should jump in temp like to 600-700*F... With my rig and RV275 injectors, exhaust brake on I see 900-1000*F of EGT's and full engine temp in about 7 minutes...

Holy cow guys... Wow! Awesome pics of snow... Still not a flake a snow here in Idaho... Ground is clear but completely frozen started the morning at 7*F above by the time I hit New Meadows, ID it was -11*F... Dang cold...

Keep something in mind... More boost pressure = More fuel used = lower MPG's High pyrometer temps = More fuel used = lower MPG's Keep these two gauges low and high MPG's will happen...

Good tune is all I can say leave well enough alone... Now as for myself and ISX we've been studying this and not found a exact answer to why some people get super good number for MPG's and others are in the dump. But driving habits, speed, weather, tires, gearing, etc all play a role in the MPG game...

You all are getting slammed with the snow and drifting but here in Idaho not a single flake of snow has fallen yet. But we are forecasted for more cold and as I type this its down to 24*F and still falling again... (Mopar Mom) Be careful out there gang... Make sure you pack along a extra blanket, and supplies just in case you break down or get stuck...

Yeap it sound like a input shaft is still spinning for some reason... Because bad syncro should give you gear clash which your not getting. When my clutch failed I was tough to get into all gears rolling or not. As for you selection of trans fluid you might double check it and be sure it compatible with NV4500 transmissions because some of them will attack the yellow metals like your syncros...

Ahhh... That's warm... Start your day at -7*F...

Well just double checking again to see if the there is a change... My weather this morning was -7*F and IAT was hooked up to the sensor (NO FOOLING RESISTOR) I ran my day and topped out at 15.8 MPG with cruise set at 55 MPH and only passed 1 vehicle the whole trip from Home to Donnelly, ID and back home. So the warmer temps are scoring better MPG's for sure. IAT was hovering right around 49-53*F... Cold Air Intakes suck big... Like I said the only change was the resistor was removed and the IAT sensor hooked up and took a down fall in MPG's.

I got cheap NAPA ones and they are just about 1 year old... Getting rather streaky with water or snow...

It's all ECM controlled... Normal pressures from a lift pump while cranking. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA

Either its 0 Volts turned off or 12 Volts turned on... Full controlled by the ECM... OFF should 0 Volts Cranking should be modulated 12 Volts (Square wave) Running should 12 Volts solid. No there is no relay or other controllers. Either the ECM has a bad ground, poor power supply, or ECM is starting to fail.

That exactly how I'm hooked up but I got to remember to flip the IAT fooler for the high idle on to over ride the resistor in the plug so I do get grid heaters. PITA really... Because if you forget and then flip it on after the key then it too late and the ECM will not fire the grid heater no matter what you try... So you got to fight it and get started... Rather harsh...

Ummm... You got all the life out that one...

As for the old caliper you can service them out completely and fix the hang up you got right now. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm Just disassemble the calipers using compressed air to push the pucks out. Just remember to protect the pucks with a piece of wood like a 2x4. Also keep your fingers away from them (crushing hazard). Then remove all seals and wash the entire caliper with soap and water and blow dry with compressed air. Now check your pucks without the seals. The pucks should drop to the bottom of the bores without being pushed. If not then using fine grade sandpaper lightly sand each puck till it fits the bores. You'll find there is a light film of dried brake fluid that causes this problem. Once you done re-assemble the caliper and re-mount on the truck. Bleed the system...