Mopar1973Man

Strange... My IAT sensor is not even hooked up I've got a 2.2K ohm resistor stuffed in the plug so the temp is always 140*F in the manifold so it never sees a rise or fall...

I seen the WINE but wasn't to sur about it... So once again its about installing another apps for linux... :banghead: I'll get it yet...

Man... I think I'm going to be following you down the same path. After the second evaporator now and lost my A/C AGAIN! :banghead: Now you mention UV glasses where did you pick them pu at? Because I've been hunt for my leak I've got a funny feeling the compressor is my problem...

Ok... That makes sense... Now what base is CentOS from then? So then I know to study up on a particular syntax.

Yeah I can see the horsepower in the software its just a matter of having a good set of documents to lead you through the nightmare of learning linux. I can see it was well designed and very secure product. But when you looking in the Help on installing a program you can find nothing because the syntax of Linux is all different. It's like learning a whole new language first before being able to even run the software. So I'm at the point of just beating the trash out of this CentOS and findout what works and what doesn't. Play with till I break it then re-install and do it again. Eventually I figure it out...

More and more I play with Linux the more I'm starting to like it. There is thing that are difficult to grasp but I'm continuing to read and trying to learn how it all works. So if you guys have some things to help me out I'm all ears to learning...

I had a simular problem with mine... As the trailer was level I would always have a pool of water inside on top of the slide roof. Come to find out the rain gutter above the slide had a minor gap and allowed the water to seep in on the slide and pool up. First way I comfirmed that was drop the tongue jack really low putting about 4" drop on the tongue from level. The pool never showed. So I ran a bead of clear silcone on the mounting edge of the rain gutter and small bead on the screw heads and problem gone now.So in Russ case it might be sloped left to right causing the water to over fill a window gutter... (Edumacated guess )At any rate you might look over the windows closely... Using compressed air and blowing the tracks out and be sure the drain holes are not plugged up. Might also look at the upper edge of the windows on the outside and be sure is not leaking through the exterior skin. Most RV's use butyl tape to seal the windows and over the years it tends to dry out and crack. RV dealers suggest you remove the windows and re-do the butyl tape and re-install... Me I took a putty knife and cut the squeezed out tape off, cleaned with de-greaser and then ran a bead of clear silcone around the windows. Turned out really nice. Bad part about water leaks is that they can start anywhere and run a long ways in the water before coming out. (Been reading over at RV.net)

+1 No kidding...

I see this all the time where a "ASE Trained Dodge Dealer Tech" tells tales of the new and improved lift pump in the tank meets the requirements. It does explain how the Factory service manual requires 70% of return fuel. How can this happen when the overflow valve closes at 10 PSI. So if the new improved lift pump is 10 PSI or less spell out failure for you new VP44 injection pump. You might want to send him over to the fuel pressure page here. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm

Here you go Rogan... I managed to install Opera Browser easy as pie. Opera has a INSTALL file you run in the terminal and follow along with the screen like windows. So now I got a browser that works good now. Also now I got a clue on what to look for on installing software. Now got a question I installed Opera to usr/local/opera directory is this correct spot ot put software? --- Update to the previous post... Holy cow Rogan you going to have to slow down a step or two and explain the has you posted... :banghead:

Here is a screen shot of the desktop...

Just what I wanted to hear Rogan... Now since you do have expereience with Linux could you explain how to install apps like for example like FireFox 4. The whole RPM, Yum, etc is confusing a newbie. :banghead: Lets say I'm wanting t oswitch over to Linux on my network here and use Windows as a secondary OS system only on my computer. Since MoparMom is just a web surfer she could get along with Firefox easy. I've been researching some of my software I use and finding either Linux (look alikes) or a Linux version of the same software so its looking like a much stronger market for linux than about 5 years ago when there was hardly nothing for it. But Rogan would you please school this dummy on how to install apps (CentOS).

@ISX Well let put it this way I'm still trying to learn how to install FireFox 4 here I'm currently running FireFox 3.6 and installing software isn't like Windows where you click setup.exe and keep clicking next ot the finish button. As for screen capture I'm not sure yet but I'll look for it. @Russ I wasn't trying to sell it to you but I figure I would more or less blog what I'm doing for fun. The funny part is this is the very same server software that is hosting this web site right now. Yeap... CentOS is the OS that www.mopar1973man.com is hosted on. So I figure since CentOS is freeware I would download it and learn more about it and improve the site by understanding whats under the hood. Trust me I'm still playing with the power windows... In time I'll get the hang of it. I know without a doubt I will always have a Windows OS on this machine for other chours that Linux can't do. Sure is nice to see a freeware OS have just as much power if not more than Windows and it completely free. http://www.centos.org/ Desktop Style (I've got both styles loaded but slightly different in CentOS) http://www.gnome.org/gnome-3/ http://www.kde.org/screenshots/

Not me... I got my 4 100w aircraft landing lights under the front bumper which happen to be brighter than the 2 stock heads light and holding the dimmer switch to get both burning...

Hey Gang...I dove off the deep end and created a dual boot computer with Linux (CentOS) and Windows Vista. So far I'm enjoying the Linux over the Windows... It's nice not have to worry about anti-virus software, firewalls, etc... Linux is such a rock solid operating system and works wonderful. There is things I'm still learning about Linux like installing programs, and such but with a little time and reading I'll bone up on how to do it right... So far like as I post this message I'm fired up on the Linux stystem and its so much faster than Windows...

The only sources of fuel in the oil would be from the front seal on the VP44 injection pump or injector problem. Because the connector tube seals against the injector in the tappered hole and the high pressure line seals against the connector tube. So then you got the copper shim and the O-ring seal the rest. So if the pintle needle is not sealing in the injector that mean the injector would fire early and spray on the cylinder wall causing the possible fuel in the oil problem just like Common Rail injectors do when they fail.So I highly suggest you could taking the injectors back out and having them pop teste and be sure there functioning properly. Because continued use will do damage to the cylinders, rings and bearing of the engine. (Just like Common Rail Engines).

I also just picked up a Harbor freight ball joint press too... Yeah I know it China made but at least it better than beating them out with a hammer.

Now replacement is dealing with the failure but you still haven't dealt with the cause of failure yet... Reason why 3rd generation common rail injectors fail is because of the fuel filter system is poor. If you upgrade to 2 micron filter it should keep your injectors in good health. The small debris that pass a stock filter acts like a sandblaster and erodes the seat inside the inector that controls the firing. So what happen the injectors start to leak and hard starting start to occur because the CP3 can't build rail pressure fast enough.

P0572 low voltage detected at the brake switch (Cruise control problem)P0628 low voltage detected at the fuel lift pump (Engine Performance problem)P2509 powerdown data lost errorP0533 a/c sending unit volts too high

Come to Idaho... No safety inspections here and out of state welcomed... Smog check are only done in large city areas...

I've got the old school draw straw and just got back from Boise, ID where I ran my tank all the way down to 1/16 of tank with a old school draw straw from AirDog 150 with no sucking air problems.

Vinyl floor be careful with... All the truck I worked on that had vinyl flooring typical would hold water in the padding and the rot out the floor on the driver side. Like after a winter season you might pull a door trim and lift the vinyl and check to see if the padding is soaked.

Like myself I run my Edge Comp 5x5... If you learn to drive in the high setting you should see higher MPG number but you have all the power you want at the touch of the throttle...

Well I made my run down to Boise ID/Ontario OR and pulled roughly 12.8 MPG with the MPG fooler in place and set for 140*F. Not to mention having the water tank on the trailer loaded both directions (466# more). Now I know most of you can pull better number with +15,000# GCW but here in Idaho everything is up and down hills and twist and turns. So I'm tickled to death to pull this much weight and get nearly 13 MPG going from as low as 1,500 feet to as high as 4,800 feet in places. I would like to say thanks to Caj... Another secret... Set a high mark boost limit and hold to it. Like I know I can set my cruise for 60 MPH and climb iany grade I want. Boost will nearly smack the pin at 32-33 PSI. Like Caj told me be nice to your ride and limit you climbing boost to 20 PSI. Well I tried it and you climb most grades in a grade lower but pyrometer temps are roughly 300*F cooler and fuel usage is less. Like Midvale grade climbing over it I'd drop from 5th gear to 4th (direct 1:1) and run it up to about 1,900 which in turn puts me at 45-50 MPH and it just walks right on over the grade. Now mind you. All this travel I've done with my Edge Comp on 5x5 which even says is too mach and will cause pyormeter problems or clutch problems. None of the above... Ran great and never had a problem with pyrometer heat at all if you use a 20 PSI boost limit. Now just pouring the fuel it by the time I get to 4th gear I'm heading to 1,000*F once I get to 5th I can push that pyrometer as far as I want past 1,200*F but that's just plain wasteful. So letting it sag back 1 gear and climbing in 4th is excellent. Funny part is I get people whizzing around me like I'm a big semi truck. I drive this way because fuel is expensive and it sure nice to be able to go farther with less fuel... So you have to use the slow lane... So what... So people get a bit impatient with you holding up traffic... so what... But it's priceless to haul that much weight and do it for less...

... Or back to the basics of a fuel pressure gauge...