Mopar1973Man

Nice job so far for head lights... I got to admit he's thinking way outside the box... As a matter of fact I think box is a few miles away... But I got to agree with him why be plain stock time to be different!

Awesome truck... Let me do some digging on my truck and figure out the connections for ya... I'm the same thing a plug and play cotroller... Edit: Ummm... If I'm not mistaken its 12V + GROUND Brake Pedal sense Trailer brake power You might at a peek at the wiring diagram for the 97 wiring... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=129

How much trailer weight (and GCW) are you pulling? Do you have a pyrometer?

Ummm... Save some money... Just do a compression test (not a blow by) and see where your at before ripping apart a perfectly good engine. Most of these trucks will travel a long ways past 500K milestone before needing any kind of work. But the CR engine are known for serious problems with leaking injectors that cause engines to fail as early as 100K miles if not dealt with. So if you pull the injectors have the pop tested and do a compression test you save huge amount of money. You may want to talk these people first... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/milestone/milestones.htm These guys never had a overhaul yet...

You could for testing reasons but I wouldn't for a permanent fix... It should work for just seeing if it will start and run but you might get some weird behavor and error codes.

Links to diagnostics...

Problem is your still baiting with food again bring them in the truck. What you need is some thing to repell them from even getting into the truck like peppermint oil, mothballs, ultrasonic box, etc...

Low miles... Hmmm... MPG loss... 1. Dragging brakes2. underinflated tires3. Aggressive tire tread4. Oversize tires5. TQ Conv holding tight? Not slipping?6. Excessive speed

Just don't mix other products with 2 cycle oil. ISX is running completely without AFC and fuel plate and getting 25-27 MPG... But also running the 2 cycle oil.

I did a 8 foot long (welding cable) negative cable on a fire truck for that price including the terminal and soldier on terminal too...

I double checked your tire size and your right on for stock size (off by 1 rev/mile 0.1%). As for the torque converter that might just be part of what's biting you. Other than that its all about driving habits... :shrug:Might try the fooler and see how it works out. Shoot! I didn't get the ohm reading...

Well if there is a DRBIII tool hooked up the tech will be able to see the speed sensor from all 3 positions (front left, front right, rear). As for guessing on which sensor it is... Last time I saw speed sensors they are roughly $200 a piece. So still the only way to check this all out correctly and right is get a dealer to plug in the DRBIII tool and he'll be able to see if the CAB module is bad, sensors are bad, etc... But I don't think a sensor will cause a CAB module to fail...Or if your going to poor boy it... If the speedometer is working correctly then it on of the front 2 sensors...

What kind of mods done to the truck?

Well he's taken a PCM from another dodge truck (gasser) and hooked it up and the fuel gauge and one other gauge came back to functional but still got a No BUS message... I'm starting to wonder if the PCM is truely bad...

You might be lucky one with a real oil pressure gauge... I heard if you take in the newest flash it will kill off your oil pressure gauge and make it like mine... But I highly suggest you leave well enough alone...

Now all it needs is a Kylon TuneUp...

I'm think guys I'm thinking I trying to figure out different lead on the truck to trigger relays and such... I smell smoke... Oh I'm thinking hard...

Hell the toilet works too... Just leave the toilet lid & seat up and they can't swim forever... I had this happen before back in 1990 when we move to Idaho I had a pack rat doing the back stroke in the toilet... Fun part was it took 2 flushes to get rid of him...

I call it a cheater box but the actual name I'm not sure of but it a box that allows you to hook up to the battery and supply power to the VP44 and be able to start the engine and idle it. There is also a switch for high idle and that it...

I like JL... Man I wish your just a bit closer to me... Even worse I wish I had a bigger shop...

Really isn't any way to do that... Because if you forget to flip it off it will over fill the tank and push it out the vents and such... You need a split tank valve (electric) and hook the aux tank to the existing fuel lines... Then just flip a switch and draw fuel from the second tank. Yeah this says carb... I snagged from a gasser site. But this is the valve you need...

Yeap it look like its heading that way... I really hate to suggest anything that mean spending big money but it looks like your out of options...

Now remember driving style is 80% of this number... So if you think it give you ability to be heavy on the throttle it doesn't... I'll get the ohm value off mine rheostat in the morning...

CAB = Controller AntiLock Brake Yes... You need to have a new (or used) reprogrammed with your gear ratio, tire size and VIN number... As for which will go bad first... Kind of like the Chicken and the Egg which came first?

236 - Boost too high too long 1475 - Aux 5 Volt too high 122 - APPS sensor Low Volts 577 - ? (got to look in other books) Double check the +5V signal in the MAP sensor and look and see what the voltage really is... Check and see if something is shorted out...