Mopar1973Man

As for the exhaust style just swap on what you need to make it work either the elbow or the stub. As for the early 24V there where all HX35 turbo till later like 2000 or 2001 they did the HY35... But in any case everything else wil bolt up to it... Just the exhaust tip that got to be swap to fit the pipe style you got... That's all...

Needle Valve or snubber installed?

Wow that's neat...

I when digging over ther site and can't seem to find there version of the box... They do sell Edge products...

I would do just a Raptor 100... Yeah in any case the lift pump needed to be upgraded. I would use 1/2 hose and plumbing for everything but you could use the stock pickup tube on the 100 series pumps... The only secret I can give is to hose clamp the hose direct to the plastic nipple. Then dropping the tank isn't required... Quadzilla XZT should give a good boost in power...

Well normal tools to get the dash out of the way... But to release the A/C lines you need the special collar tool to do it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/hvac/evaporator/evaporator.htm

I managed to push the reference clock to 237 MHz and keep it stable under low loads but soon as I put a load on the processor the temp would take off... Time for a bigger cooling fan... 237 x 13.5 = 3,199 MHz (3.1 GHz) From... 200 x 13.5 = 2700 MHz (2.7 GHz) Just like fat injectors in a Cummins... Now the EGT's are just getting too hot.. Time for a bigger turbo and exhaust...

Just thinking of that what did you do about jiggle pins? Curious what you had to do to make it work?

Part link didn't worky... You need to make a screen shot of it...

I know Caj's has been through a few lift pumps, a few injection pumps, etc...

Yeap... $160 bucks has been the price since I bought mine like 5 years ago... Well worth it tool! I used mine druing the time my fuel gauge failed. I never ran out of fuel and the SGII was all way like really close to being dead on.

Dang... :banghead: I was trying to get his goat going... And it didn't work... Well at least your paying attention to details...

Last touch of fuel I got in New Meadows, ID is hold steady at $3.659

Won't make a difference... With those toyz underlined your display would be a long ways off showing you like 35 MPG... The best thing to use if you want one is a ScanGauge II or simular... Because you can calibrate it to your fueling toyz and the huge oversize tire and get true numbers... www.scangauge.com

Exactly... My exhaust brake replaces the exhaust eblow going to the down pipe. As for comparing you got the exact turbo my buddy Taz has on his 1992 Dodge Cummins (HX35) with the short grooved flange and after comparing the exhuast housing they should swap out... Unbolt one and swap to the other...

Like I said on the chat the other night... That a awesome write up of the crank seal and gear cover... Well done! Oh yeah... Did you check your KDP?

Hua??? Heck I got to leave my jacket in the back seat or I'll fry to death in the front... I've seen cab temps of 100*F before... (Not Vent!) on a 20*F day...

Hmmm... even with my old batteries (factory 9 years old) I rarely see below 11.0 volts with just turning on the key... Even with the engine running I never get below 12.0... Yeah mine dim but not that bad...

Funny how this thread is growing... Now is there someone that can catch me?

I'm cheering you on... Keep going!

Got Zach beat...

Here is mine...

... If it is the oil pressure... I got to ask what oil filter do you have on the engine?

The only time that cleaning might effect the performance is if you own a Exhaust brake... Then the sensor will be caked in oil residue... Stock trucks don't require cleaning... Also only 1% of people find that cleaning fixes this problem...

Now learn to drive on 5x5...