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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. I say before the pump then your protecting the pump from debris as well...
  2. Here is what I think about the Edge Juice... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2867-How-to-get-lower-egt-s?p=21792&viewfull=1#post21792
  3. Nope... It was absolutely free... Just another addon to the site...
  4. Those are cool so far but I'll help everyone out by reposting the videos... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPNMLTlhv4M http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFdSQIxbAz4 http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihxN6j3aljk http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cq_irnpDyOM
  5. The way Edge Juice works is that it starts defueling way before the set limits. So let say you set EGT limit at 1,200*F so it might start defueling curve at maybe 1,050*F and works it way up to full defuel by 1,200*F. So it like you'll never notice it... So in your case it about the Max Boost setting, Max EGT setting, and the amount of backdown %... So if your going to be like the Edge Comp (no limits) you would set the backdown for 0%... The backdown setting is how aggressive the defuel curve is 0% being none and 100% being full fuel cut.
  6. No... The boost fooling of the Edge Comp would continue to keep fuel till the throttle is released... No limits or alarms. Like the Edge Juice and it limits and alarms. I'm not to fond of... Like this example that is common here... Stuck behind a slow truck or 5th wheel. You see a passing lane open nothing there and BAM! you drop the hammer and start your pass. Then around the corner ahead of you a fast moving vehicle is coming at you. At that point would you want Edge Juice to say "Oh! Your EGT's and boost are too high time to defuel!" I'm glad I don't have that limiting junk I rather push the EGT's to 1,400*F and/or 40 PSI of boost for 15 second to finsh my pass safely than to loose all the power because of a Edge Juice trying to protect the engine...
  7. I'm going to toss my in here... In all my years of driving my truck and towing everything from flatbed trailers with vehicles (pickup trucks, backhoe, firewood, etc) I've never recorded a MPG lower than 14.3 MPG even in all the miles I've got fuel logs of...
  8. I heard of a few people making a BHAF fit a 3rd gen but you got to do some plumbing work to get here... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-performance-parts-discussion/332510-bhaf-part-s-tips-06-a.html#post3488064
  9. Another place is to call a dealer and find out who does the stealth plate it comes with one of the bits you need...
  10. Yeah like the early trucks like 98.5 and 99 were HX35 on the automatics... Even crazier yet... The older 1st gens had H1C turbos with 16 cm2 housings... I've seen a few without a wastegate because even at full throttle it couldn't build more an 15 PSI and about 800*F EGT's... Like Taz here has a 1992 Dodge with a HX35 turbo even with his pump turned up (way up) and towning a 30 foot jet boat to Lewiston, ID he never got over 1,000 *F worth of EGT's... He can bury the boost gauge on common though... Some to still think about...
  11. If I remember right you got to get a really special torx bit for this... It's a 5 point instead of 6 point torx... A buddy of mine had bought of set of bits and happen to have this in it... 99 Cent store thing...
  12. Geez... Feel the love...
  13. ISX and GuessWho is right... Get your gauges... Pyrometer, boost, fuel pressure, trans temp... Fix the weak links like the fuel system upgraded lift pump... Fix the other weak link the trans by getting a TQ Conv and a Valve Body... Then you can add fuel... If you add fuel before you fix the weak links... The weak links will be the first to fail... In either case a injection pump for $1,200 bucks or a transmission for $2000 or more...
  14. Well the problem is the contacts are laying on my desk at the moment... I'm heading out tomorrow so it will be Saturday before they are installed... I happened to have a single contact given to me that I found to replace the burnt one for now... So I'll get it done Sat... As for installing them GuessWho is right about the impact ned to break the nuts loose. Needless to say mine got rounded off a bit... :banghead: But nothing a 6 sided socket and a impact couldn't fix...
  15. RV275's are basically 40HP injector. Now this will help with the fuel but does nothing about the stock timing... So you might consider stacking with a Edge EZ or a Edge Comp?
  16. Well here I go to out do him... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSMMGCoqarw
  17. Yah! LarryB's package came... I was quite surprised what I found jammed in that small package... I found pair of rubber gloves to keep your hands clean, then found a single band-aid to take care of that busted knuckles, a current catalog, and last but not least the contacts... Here is what I got... Here is my old contact compared to the new...
  18. Here you go... Stooping down looking in the passenger side you can see it clearly. Then looking at the resistor pack...
  19. Hmmm... As for reset you might try pulling the ECT plug or the MAP sensor plug to create another fresh code and then try the reset. Works for my SGII on reseting the P0500 codes that is stuck in the PCM...
  20. Yea... When you open the passenger side door just stoop down and look up under the dash you see a plug where the resistor is at. Then all you got to do is remove I think 2 screw and one plug and its out... Its in plain view...
  21. If duct if full of debris (leaves or mice beds) then its possible to have it fail... Because it relies on moving air to keep it cool so when the air is slowed or block around the resistor then it fails... Like in the pic you see the chip in the corner of mine... My low setting is gone...
  22. Now you asked for it...
  23. Resistor is mounted in the bottom of the HVAC case on the passenger side of the cab... White block next to the blower... This can be accessed on the passenger side with a few screw...
  24. Oh... Now you gone and done it now I got to pack up the ATV today and show you how a working man does trail... Weather is still good today...
  25. Actually there is... Once you start down below 100:1 ratio you'll start to notice the exhaust color turns more grey in color and MPG's start to slide down some. This is because now you cetane number is too low and the fuel isn't burning fast enough to completely burn. So there is a balance ot the fuel...

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