Mopar1973Man

How about 3-10 PSI for a VE pump... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/1stgen/fuel-pressure/pressure.htm

As long as its in writing and clearly spelled out on what they cover... Side note do you know what the term "black water" stands for? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwater_(waste)

I'm going to be passing the cell phone information to my calling crowd too... I've got several people with just cellpones and no home computer that will most like become a member now. --- Update to the previous post... More to come soon... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ngT6F-zqgI

The part I'm not sure of is could a 12V PCM be used against the 24V electronics and still communicate? If so then it would be a matter of changing over to a PCM module as well... But as for wire color and what pin they go to the wiring diagrams would be a good source of information.As for keeping the orignal ECM you could but remember you'll always have error codes for all the missing electronic sensors which won't mean much. But as long as the gauge are hooked up and working I don't see why bother with converting to a PCM. :shrug:Thinking out loud...

That is rather trick and clean looking with the blue LED's...

Geez... It still cheaper to drive my diesel... Thanx! Here is a profile of Idaho fuel prices over the years... I already knew that from all the math and fuel logging I did... But the simple way to look at it is Mom's 96 1/2 ton truck weighs about 5,500# and get about 12 MPG empty which give about 420 miles to the tank. Then compare the diesel at 20 MPG which gives 700 miles to a tank which is a huge difference.

Well you in luck here is the wiring diagrams for both trucks... 1997 Dodge Cummins. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=129 Then the 2002 Dodge Cummins. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=128

Geez...ISX could you do that with Idaho fuel prices and repost... Diesel here is $3.419 and unleaded is $3.019 currently...

Not to bad... The best way to do it is to pull the dash face and the take the headlight switch out of the dash... Then pull the a-pillar cover. Now you can route all the wires up to the a-pillar and the tuck them under the edge of the headliner... The little blank slug pops out I'll have to get pics in the morning on how to do it.

I got the mod added to the forum now so all you guys with Blackberries, iphones, etc can now surf the site with ease and good speed. I had CajFlynn test it out this evening and he said it worked excellent. So here is what you need to make it work for you... 1. Go to www.tapatalk.com and download the app for your phone. 2. Log back in to the forum and enjoy... The Tapatalk app signals the forum to display in a miniture format that is designed for phones and like CajFlynn said it good and fast now compared to the old system.

Correct...1. Reset his truck to stock to release the VIN lock of the Smarty.2. Calibrate your speedometer.3. Reset his previous tune.As long as the Smarty has a recorded VIN number in the programmer (a loaded tune) it will not operate on any other truck till you reset back to stock.If it still doesn't work contact Bob Wagner...

I would keep the 24V wiring knowing it works now. It just a matter of trading sensors from on engine to another... Problem is that the ECM got to stay with the 12V too... ECM Inputs •Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Volts •APPS Idle Validation Switches #1 and #2 •Battery voltage •Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) •CCD bus (+) circuits •CCD bus (-) circuits •Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) •Data link connection for DRB scan tool •(FPCM) Fuel Injection Pump Control Module •Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor •Ground circuits •Intake manifold Air Temperature (IAT) sensor •Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (Boost Pressure Sensor) •Oil pressure sensor •PCM •Power Take Off (PTO) •Power ground •Sensor return •Signal ground •Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor Red is missing sensors for the 12V blue is the communication path for the gauges... Because the ECM recieves the information then sends it up the CCD network Bus to the guage cluster to be shown on the gauges... PCM is not use for gauges...

Nope he has to reset to stock to be able to work on your truck...Once a vehicle is load with a tune then it VIN locked to that vehicle. So he has to reset to stock first then he can work on your truck set the speedo then it should return to his truck...

W&F brought up the other point and he's right... There is a slack adjustment for the cable midway down the frame but becareful of how much slack you take up out of the cable. You only want to remove enough slack to return the pedal in the full up position. Like mine it was getting stretched out and the BRAKE light would remain on.

Ok if you got RWAL then its this way... But still if you replace the sensor and roll the vehicle the ABS module will clear the light on its own...

CHROME... :drool:You know chrome makes it go faster...

Interesting information...

Well you still welcome to hang around and pick our brains...But I understand... Sad to see you go...

So that means one of the front sensors is bad too... Also ABS/BRAKE light will not reset till the vehicle is moving. So if the problem is truely corrected the lights will go off after a short distance. Rear end speed sensor is for the speedometer so if the speedo is wigging out then the rear sensor is bad. But if the speedometer is smooth and correct then one of the front 2 ABS speed sensors is failed. Front axle sensor location on the bearing. (4WD drive)

Rear axle... 2001.5 and up where all 4 wheel disc brakes...

I don't like pitbulls at all... They're a really weird dog even if you do the right things with them Pit's still can just wig out and take you apart for no good reason... We owned one long ago and the dog was find for people but cars it would attack the tires everytime... Stupid dog... :cookoo:Now Doberman Pinchers and German Shepherds no problems...

I think they are the same as the 2nd Gen for parking brakes... Did you try to re-adjust the brake? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/e-brake/e-brake.htm Basically pull the rubber plug and spin the starwheel away from the axle. This should tighten the shoe back up. Just the tension by rolling a tire...

Hmmm... Autometer isn't standing up so good now...

The grime in the intake area is typical of a exhaust brake. As for rust that still bugs me... I'd have it looked at before you use it...

This pic bugs me... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1910&d=1287365374 But this is normal here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1905&d=1287365110 There is somewhere there was moisture getting to those back cylinders... I never seen a head rust up in 4 days... Time to be magifluxed and see where the crack is at... I bet money around these cylinders... --- Update to the previous post... Now that I looked and looked again at your pics... I'm going to say you got a coolant leak in the manifold area (crack) that is feeding the coolant to the 3 cylinders causing the rust. But I'm going to also say you got a crack somewhere in the head that is feeding compression to the return fuel rail... I really do think you getting close to a end on this adventure...