Mopar1973Man

Ok if you got RWAL then its this way... But still if you replace the sensor and roll the vehicle the ABS module will clear the light on its own...

CHROME... :drool:You know chrome makes it go faster...

Interesting information...

Well you still welcome to hang around and pick our brains...But I understand... Sad to see you go...

So that means one of the front sensors is bad too... Also ABS/BRAKE light will not reset till the vehicle is moving. So if the problem is truely corrected the lights will go off after a short distance. Rear end speed sensor is for the speedometer so if the speedo is wigging out then the rear sensor is bad. But if the speedometer is smooth and correct then one of the front 2 ABS speed sensors is failed. Front axle sensor location on the bearing. (4WD drive)

Rear axle... 2001.5 and up where all 4 wheel disc brakes...

I don't like pitbulls at all... They're a really weird dog even if you do the right things with them Pit's still can just wig out and take you apart for no good reason... We owned one long ago and the dog was find for people but cars it would attack the tires everytime... Stupid dog... :cookoo:Now Doberman Pinchers and German Shepherds no problems...

I think they are the same as the 2nd Gen for parking brakes... Did you try to re-adjust the brake? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/e-brake/e-brake.htm Basically pull the rubber plug and spin the starwheel away from the axle. This should tighten the shoe back up. Just the tension by rolling a tire...

Hmmm... Autometer isn't standing up so good now...

The grime in the intake area is typical of a exhaust brake. As for rust that still bugs me... I'd have it looked at before you use it...

This pic bugs me... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1910&d=1287365374 But this is normal here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1905&d=1287365110 There is somewhere there was moisture getting to those back cylinders... I never seen a head rust up in 4 days... Time to be magifluxed and see where the crack is at... I bet money around these cylinders... --- Update to the previous post... Now that I looked and looked again at your pics... I'm going to say you got a coolant leak in the manifold area (crack) that is feeding the coolant to the 3 cylinders causing the rust. But I'm going to also say you got a crack somewhere in the head that is feeding compression to the return fuel rail... I really do think you getting close to a end on this adventure...

Sad but true most all things now are produced in China... But when it comes time to do a brake job on my truck it most likely going to require rotors too...

Hmmm...I'm going to subscribe to this because soon or later I'm going to have to replace my rotors and brake pads...Did you try NAPA?

Ummm... Disconnecting the battery will not wipe error codes out... The only way for error code to be erased is by... 1. Using a Code Reader 2. By the ECM/PCM seeing 40 warm up cycles without the issue(s) returning... The disconnecting the batteries to clear codes is a myth... You can have a batch of error codes park the truck pull the batteries for 10 years come back put it back in and the codes are still there... You can thank dodge/Cummins for using Non-Volitale RAM to store the codes. Same thing that stores the odometer mileage...

Southbend Con OFE Nope... Yank the trans out... Pull the pressure plate... That is the only way to check.

Nope... My factory clutch the hub broke out of it... The material was in good shape but part of the hub broke causing issues with shifting and grabbing.

That's odd... If RPM's are jumping all over the place typically it a cam/crank sensor going nuts... A error code would of shown that...

ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) Removal & Installation 1. Turn ignition off and disconnect negative battery cables. ECM is located on left side of engine block above engine oil pressure sensor and behind fuel filter. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 . 2. Loosen 5/32" (4 mm) Allen head bolt securing 50-pin connector at ECM. Carefully pull ECM connector outward while removing connector bolt. Remove 3 mounting bolts securing ECM to engine block and remove ECM. 3. Ensure back of ECM is clean for good ground connection to engine block. Do not paint back of ECM. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten ECM bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . 4. To calibrate ECM to Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS), turn ignition on. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This procedure can only be performed one time. If this procedure is not performed, DTCs may set.

Well pulling the batteries and putting them somewhere warm and keeping a trickle charge on them is a good thing. It the spring of the years you'll need to change all fluids in the truck from head to toe.

Opps... I see a fisheye... :wow:No actually it looks really good... I'm wanting to see you KDP setup...

Same here... I've read up on the BD e Brake and like it more so over my current Jacobs Brake but what I got works really well being I still roling on factory brake pads yet at 176K miles...

I'm going to take a guess you got a 2001 Dodge Cummins... (It would help to fill out you signature with information about your truck).Your going to need to get a code reader and read the codes and find out what going on. P1693 code just means there is another code present. Since I know the 2001 tend to dump just the PCM and the P1693 code is present that means the rest are on the ECM. Then the only way to see them is a code reader... Most part stores have a code reader and they will allow you to use to read the codes. Write them down...

Nicely done... :thumbup2:For those of you that have the 12V's or if you want this will also work on the 24V's as well...

Ugh... You need to run that thing hot... Soot/Carbon will burn off at 1,000*F EGT roughly...

Oh that must you and your buddies doing those low fly by's...