Mopar1973Man

Something like that I would pay for the price of that filter being it can get replaceable cartridges and magnets. If set up right it might be handy for doing system flushes. I've got to think on that a bit.

Then to step up your article there @IBMobile here is a update to the filter types so you can have a replaceable cartridge now. Designed for power steering. https://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-Performance-Edition-Transmission-Power-Steering-Filter-P038M.htm

Just to give a feel for MPG with the Quadzilla Tuner... 150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Turbo (60/60/12) BHAF 4" Inch Exhaust (Straight Pipe) NV4500 Transmission 245/75 R16 tires on 3.55 gears giving a final ratio of 3.69:1 I've maxed out 28.04 MPG. I commonly will got 375 to 425 miles on a half of tank of fuel. The truck below...

Pressure turns to load on the shaft. If there is restriction that is abnormal it will put more load on the tangs of the shaft wearing them out. Most of the time the pump should be in bypass mode being as you drive you barely cracking the power valve in either direction. But if the fluid was fouled and debris was high the screen could plug up some inside and then pump is under constant pumping force and wear on the tangs could possibly happen.

Hmmm... Fluid flush been done or not at all? I know lot of people don't realize that PS fluid has to be changed every 30k miles and as the fuild wears out then no longer lubing good and added stress on the pump when the debris loads up in the screen. I've got my old OEM pump still I'm pretty sure it failed from a donor steering box that was full of debris. Now Some day I'll pull it apart and look...

Not a problem. DAP has been doing very good for prices and one of my favorite suppliers for parts. The whole gang is wonderful and know there stuff. If they don't know they will find out for you. Then it doesn't help when I've met them all in person back in April 15, 2021. DAP & Quadzilla Crew...

1989 to 2002 was all PS fluid... 2003 to current is all ATF+4... Why? Because Dodge swapped out the Saginaw steering box for Ford Steering box and Ford hydro booster and then swapped over to ATF+4. When you talk to several steering box rebuilders and learn what will work and what won't work. Between wrong fluid used in the pump, oversized tires putting added stress on the pump, yeah its not going to last long.

Yup. 315 tires does put a lot of stress on the PS Pump. You should only be using a standard ratio steering box, no quick ratio, if you have a quick ratio that adds stress to the pump too which are intended for smaller tires. Power steering fluid should be flushed every 30k miles. I got 350k out of my first OEM pump.

Got ya covered...

Really simple get a Trans Temp gauge ISSPro EV2 and the pick up the relay adon then adjust the trigger point for the relay in temperature say 160-180*F and then set the warning light for 200*F maybe. But that one gauge will do the task of controlling the fan.

Sure does! Just remember to have a cooler that is rated for more heat than what is normally there so you have cooling capacity to handle towing or heavy loads or just slow climbs where the torque converter is unlocked. I had a 1951 Willys Jeep that had a Turbo 350 transmission I had the cooler removed from the radiator and then a external cooler added but I under guessed the size and always had trans temp issues with the Jeep in the heat of the summer just running the forestry roads at 25 to 30 MPH.

@JAG1got me a set for a gift for working on his truck. Mine have seen some serious usage and travel during the 5 years of driving back and forth to Ontario, OR. Yeah if you scrub them down good and then hit with armor all and leave then sit out and cook in the sun they look good for days then. Don't wipe the armor all off leave on till it dries clear.

Hmmm... I've never seen anything like that happen before...

To be honest... The only hiccup I've had was way back in 2016 when @MoparMomwas in the hospital for kidney failure I lost my EGT gauge it just stopped moving completely for the stepper motor of the needle. Contacted Michael as well at ISSPro and had him replace it under warranty. Kept trucking... The only thing I want to change is grab my fuel pressure gauge and slow the needle movement up so I don't hear the ticking noise of the stepper motor and the trans temp I want to adjust it even slower this one really ticks too much. Then a bit of light matching... But first get some time to work on my own trucks again.

It would be a different story if you installing a fairly large Derale Trans Cooler with Fan. Now I would opt to pull the stock heat exchanger. https://derale.com/product-footer/fluid-coolers/transmission/remote-mount2013-10-28-09-53-271226240719/13870-detail But I wanna make you think a second. Remember anything that is creating heat is a problem for efficiency. So if your transmission is making lots of temperature while daily driving then you have to consider what mods did you do to the truck that is making it inefficient. Most transmission heat issues come from oversized tires on 3.55 axle gears. Even my 1996 Dodge I had when I opted to go down in tire size it did make the running trans temperature cooler. What I'm say is look for the source of the temperature before adding a bunch of coolers to fix a temperature problem. At the same time if your planning on removing the heat exchanger you better have something to replace that amount of BTU exchange because the little cooler in the radiator tank might not be able to keep up. Hence like what I posted above in this post that would be a really good trans cooler for remote mount but places to hide such a unit is a challenge. Do consider if you offroad if any mud is splashed on the the cooler it could cake up in a short time which I've seen before.

Since then I've ran the truck to town a few laps now and Thor runs stronger and pulls better with power since the fuse. EGT's are better controlled. No CEL at all. MPG are starting to improve again.

Correct the bigger the difference of temperature the hotter it will be in the cab. The hose out of the head is the supply of hot coolant. Then the hose to the metal tube is return. This should be notably cooler.

I bought the cable its pretty cheap. Then even for me I had to set up a Virtualbox with Windows. Then I could run the software on my Ubuntu Linux PC to set the gauges. The biggest thing everyone likes about these gauges is the RED warning light. When I do sell a set of gauge for clients I always take the 30 seconds and program the gauges for what they are set up for. Like EGT's warning light is set for 1,200*F. Boost depending on the limits of there turbo, fuel pressure 13 or lower the light is tripped. Then trans temp I set for 220*F. Now you just notice the red light in level on the a-pillar and know exactly what is going on without even looking at the gauge. For example mine are from top to bottom... Boost, Fuel pressure, and EGT's so if like yesterday it was really cold and my fuel start to thicken a bit and pressure dropped below 13 for a few miles but I knew what was going on without even monitoring the gauge because the center gauge lit up and I knew pressure is lower than 13 and quick glance it was 11 to 12 PSI. I kept truckin' soon the fuel warmed up and pressure popped back up to 17 like normal warning light went out.

I'll have to show you. I'll pull one of my gauges tomorrow and get photo of it. There is a main port (6 pin) that you'll see. Then just below it you may see the other smaller 6 pin plug this is the USB port. There is a plastic part on the square opening that you can break out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Again I would have to see a photo of the gauge back I can tell you.

I would like to see the back of the gauge. There is a plastic piece of trim in the back you can remove to access the USB port in back (4 pin connector) then you able to program the gauges for warning lights, lighting, needle movement etc.

I would keep them. Really easy to install. I prefer the ISSPro EV2 series over any mechanical gauge now. Being the ISSPro EV2 is programmable and can have custom warning lights per each gauge. So tell me which ones you got and I can help you set up.

SOLVED!!! Number 1 the Dodge FSM book has a error in the wiring map in the P0243 code document. But if you go to the 8W-30-28 page in the 2006 Dodge FSM and look at the wastegate solenoid versus the P0243 page with its map two different things. Here is the correct diagram. Then here is the incorrect map that is provided at the P0243 code... Now take look at the fuse number. The second one is fuse #36 vs the correct one that is fuse #6. Then look at the wire color on the second one the map calls for one grey/pink. Then the correct one is pink//yellow from the solenoid to the C130 connector. Then above the C130 connector turns to the Red/orange which the first map is correct. So this could really mess with you. So back to the problem the previous owner must have blown that fuse and never replaced it or something because the port was empty for #6. Now that I plugged a 30A fuse in it since that was my biggest fuse on hand the error code is gone. Then now that solves the other problem with the fan clutch and summer overheating being the same fuse that runs the fan clutch. Just needed a fuse in the #6 port and problem solved.

I would say leave the cooler in place just me personally.

As for your brakes I would double check everything. Assembly, cables, you can actually look at the way things work in the drum by having a partner slow and lightly pressing on the brake pedal and watch the shoes slowly expand past the point, it should pull the cable tight and ratchet up the star wheel. I wonder if the ID of the drum is TOO wide and constantly wheeling up the shoes because the shoes are just traveling too far every stroke. I would suggest checking the ID of the drum for size.

I typically verify the ECT to the IAT values on live data tools. Cold engine, key on engine off, then read both ECT and IAT values typically they match at first key on cycle.