Mopar1973Man

The biggest reason it not street friendly is the Edge Products (Edge EZ, Edge Comp, and Edge Juice has no timing controls). As injectors get bigger you need more retard at launching time to build boost fast (what Edge can't do), then once boost is built you need to advance timing more (again another thing Edge can't do.) I've started back in 2006 with Edge Comp and the biggest thing I hated was the excessive smoke and no way to clean it up (bad timing and fuel maps). Basically Edge just stacks on top of the ECM with extra fuel and timing with no control were you want that extra fuel at or timing. Once flipped over to the Quadzilla problem gone being I can adjust timing to meet the engine needs. This also gave me the record on the site for efficiency of 28.04 MPG. Re-inventing the wheel??? Nope... About making the wheel more round which Quadzilla does and not squared like Edge products does... The other fact is I cvan can place in a nice flat stock fuel area where there is neutral fuel... Again another thing Edge can't do...

The cheap ball joints I got off of RockAuto (non-Moog) are over 200k miles now and still going. Only the upper are grease-able but the lowers are still tight.

WAIT TO START light coming on instantly?

I just seen a injector Crack on 94 Cummins in less 2k. It was a VCO even.

Like @IBMobile said... I typically hit a Walmart for it.

Yup you seen that correctly. I sold Lil' Red. Eileen's daughter (Brianna) bought it. I'll miss that truck its what I start my life over with back in 2001 after Devin passed away (Previous girlfriends son). I built my computer business back up and used that truck to get back and forth to work. Being Brianna bought it it least it still in the family. It been sitting under the tree for over 6 months and started up and drove just like it always did.

There is correct ways of deleting and wrong ways... All equipment need to be present on the vehicle. Like in how I suggest to do it with a "delete tuner" is the easiest and best. Yeah you might just have to a do a few small mods to do but it not like your removing the EGR cooler, EGR valve, EGR piping, DPF and replacing with straight pipe. All this will remain on the vehicle. Like I said make a steel gasket for the EGR that blocks the EGR passage. Have a gutted DPF and install the hollow can. It will not regen and the tuner shuts of the EGR completely. It will pass a visual inspection. None the wiser...

EGR is easy just make a steel gasket with the port passages problem solved. I've done this a couple times on Ford 6.0L engines using freeze plug in the EGR cooler. Computer has zero idea the EGR is passage is plugged.

https://www.facebook.com/pandemicdebate/videos/333725758316346/ https://www.facebook.com/pandemicdebate/videos/822132668672806/

Don't take but 5 minute unbolt your good DPF for a gutted... Still in all not huge deal breaker and will not regen. Regardless no many will pull it out to see if the filter is present.

You can if you wish.

I just had to do injector warranty for my buddy down the road. I sold him 140 HP injectors for his 94 12V Cummins. After he got back from the California trip he blew a head gasket come to find out he had white to grey smoke as well. 2 injectors had issues one he managed to crack the nozzle and the other was was popping strangely sometime popping correct and others no. We upgraded from reman'ed bodies to fully new bodies and DAP replaced all the needles and nozzles and re-popped. Back to running good.

Yeah I've seen two trucks here sell right around 20k.

That's another simple trick. Remove the DPF and beat a rod through it. It will not regen. Reinstall. Deleted software wise... No back pressure no regen. You could find another DPF can beat it out and install fully gutted DPF and never get a regen.

Another 53F morning here. Super cool outside and quiet. Like this morning I open the sliding door just a bit to allow some of the morning cold air to weep in the house.

Call DAP and talk to them... They have tuners that can do such a thing. Just like Adams, Co. Idaho has no smog testing either but a local kid took the hardware delete option and then after doing the delete attempt to take it to a dealer for sale. That ended very badly. No dealer would even touch that truck for sale in Boise or Lewiston. I was force to sell it private party. Just because you don't have smog testing in your area I'm pretty sure no dealer can sell or take a trade in of any deleted trucks now. I know this is true for Idaho.

Even the tuners I've used in the past you can return to pure stock as long as all the equipment is present. If its deleted you will be in a huge bind to return all the hardware back to the truck. This why I prefer the software delete method being it just a matter of about 15 minutes and its back to pure stock and all the smog equipment is present. Disclaimer ---> I DO NOT suggest or even recommend any kind of hardware delete on any vehicle there is better ways of handling this issue.

Another cold morning at 52F for a start but it going to get hot today. Already 70F and rising yet.

Be aware any vehicle deleted physical no dealer will allow it to be bought or sold. If you live in a "smog controlled" county or state you could be in trouble as well. I would rather software delete it so visibly the truck is complete when inspected. The tuner will give a bit more power and better timing. There is delete tuners out there that delete out most of that software to no use the devices. It will still re-gen but much, much less. Here is a trick. Like I've done this on a Ford 6.0L is pull the EGR cooler and put freeze plugs in the exhaust passage of the cooler. No longer flows any exhaust gases but the ECM still thinks it working. This could be done on Cummins as well by making a steel gasket without the passage holes.

Blinking WAIT TO START. No start or run. I had to call them on how to recover the ECM which they managed to do. It was a bad flash... After all the problems I went back to the Quadzilla. Let say I wasn't happy with all the problems, limits, etc. Still never got to use it.

It was being setup on The Beast. Communication issues. Randomly working and not working. So I had them test before returning first trip back still didn't work found it was my ODBII plug had one pin push out. Then week later I managed to get a tune flash but it trash the ECM and had to call then to recover my ECM. Which they did and sent it back to find out what went wrong. Second VIN slot taken. Then once it returned I finally was getting setup to build a tune and then told me oh you need a dongle, etc. I gave in at that point... Never got to actual drive and use this unit but lost over a month of sending it back and forth.

You have to remember the mechanical limits too. On a 24V there is only so much time that the VP44 is pumping to one cylinder so there is a limit of how much you can push through. I've know of guy in the midwest I've been talking to that built a better VP44 that flow enough to supply 1000 HP fuel only, I was giving him info about the internals of the pump and the managed to open up the internals to supply more. Quadzilla can provide up to 180 HP over stock. Now on the CR engines (2003+) the common rail makes everything equal to a point. Still in all there is so much time that you can spray fuel in a cylinder. Now on the CR engine I know the Smarty can provide up to 210 HP over stock. Comparing CR vs VP44 tuning wise I know the CR engine is more precise in tuning over VP44. Being most VP44 tuners hijack the CANBus with priority message and inject the new data. Now CR engine most all tuners will reflash the ECM with new data to change up all the fuel timing and other parameters.

Bummer dude... You not giving me warm and fuzzy at all. I really don't want the headache of the Smarty. After using it for such a short time and spent more time trying to get it to work and sent in back 2 times and then lost 2 VIN slots. There was no way to gain that back so just in there bench test they "stole" 2 VIN slots and left me only one VIN slot left. I gave Smarty back and walked away. I never even got to fire up the Tuning Software because of the dongle lock and other crazy crap. I was suppose to provided a fully unlocked unit with all the extras, nope.

This is correct. Like @AH64IDsaid my +50HP injectors in Thor is 18% over stock so yes the overhead trip computer shows about +3 MPG higher (because of the shorted duration) vs actual. Now my +150 HP injectors are not flowing the full 150 HP being I'm popped higher 320 bar so that makes about sense for the offset to be about 43% over stock. So on The Beast the 43% flow difference I'm getting 43% more at stock fuel (Quad 100%) without adding fuel. Since the duration is shorted up 43% so when I add fuel on the tuner I can expand the duration to MAX through the Quadzilla and gain so much more.

@W-T is totally correct. Diodes across the relay coil is so so important. I'll give a good example of the spike of energy from a collapsing coil. I've got a LED rocker switch on my exhaust brake. I did not hook up the switch ground for the LED. Every time I switch it off in the dark you can see the LED on the switch dimly light up. Like I said there is no ground hook up on the switch so it should not light up. If it was hooked up the switch LED work burn up for the collappse of the coil the spike would blow the LED out. Already lost one switch to this problem (burned up LED). In W-T article the long version of the W-T ground wire he explains about the design of the factory lift pump which had good noise suppression, sadly the pump itself is more or less junk. But electrically it was one of the best pumps for noise reduction system build in. None of aftermarket pumps FASS or AirDog have noise suppression. Remember since W-T uses a Ham Radio in his truck all source of spark or arcing has to be suppressed to prevent drowning out the radio with random RF noise.