Mopar1973Man

Even just changing the steering box there is a slight offset in my truck I've got to adjust. Same thing...

Now we are going into the freezer. This morning is mere 39*F and it won't be long before winter-like weather is coming soon. Only be a high of 80*F.

Red is the ignition power from I think fuse #9 in the cab. If your having trouble identifying colors and placement let me know.

I'm curious where did you get your rebuild kit and how much? Not that I've got one to fix right now but curious for information value.

Yeah there is always just a bit of difference in length from one bar to the next. I've always had to adjust a bit one way or the other.

Too keep all rebuilders honest. Make sure to make a identifying mark on the pump (make a domino mark, paint marker, etc. Then make photos of all the numbers and the pump itself. Then when they make a claim to void the warranty. Then tell them to send you a picture back of the pump. If it does not match your numbers, ID mark, etc. then you know they are trying to cheat. This method has help a few beat the void warranty claim problems.

Like I said not even a full amp. If the batteries are like 7 years old, full charge I can run all night and still be 12.1 to 12.2 in the morning. Im running dual 12V now but I'm planning on upgrading to dual 6V batteries. Sad to say my last trip home I must of rubbed the radio knob as I was packing out and left it on. The the RV was not plugged in so yesterday found out they where ZERO volts dead. Plugged it in to charge but with the age I think they are done.

Whole problem here is... Either the hacker managed to inject code to direct the user to go elsewhere this requires a website with poor security to be able to inject code. The other way is to make a look alike website with close to matching URLs to fool you. Example be like... amazon.com -> amazon2.com Basically a look alike site but the url might be slightly different. This is common I get emails from a hacker site trying to bill me for services but when you click the link it not the same website. In my case it's... sendgrid.com -> sendgrid.com.zzz (random tail)

120 VAC... no DC function.

All of Idaho's river gages. https://waterdata.usgs.gov/id/nwis/current/?type=flow Here is the river across the road. https://waterdata.usgs.gov/id/nwis/uv/?site_no=13316500&PARAmeter_cd=00065,00060,00010 I'm about a 100 CFS (Cubic Feet per Second) low right now. River looks like a creek.

Like a 20 inch maybe. Pretty small. Not even a full 1 amp.

Normal. Just readjust the drag link turn buckle to make it right. Only takes a small amount to make straight again.

VP44 are know to possibly leaking after 20 PSI some can make a full 30 PSI without it blowing out and some barely 25 PSI and its leaking. Just to clarify optimal pressure is between 14 to 20 PSI. The only time I've seen seal leaks is above 20 PSI.

Just pull the belt to take tension off the pulleys then you can check them all. Surprisingly how much belt tension will hide bad bearings most common for me seems to be the A/C pulley bearings.

No need to ship. Like he told me one port has to be blocked. I think another drilled out. It's a mod you could do at home without shipping. Again ask him I'm sure he would tell you what needs to be done.

Yup. Very true. Or you end up dragging a diesel generator behind it on a trailer.

I'm going to assume just with rubber heater hose? Be aware I've seen a few people broke down from the hose kinking shut and then eith blowing out the tappet cover gasket or crank seals. This is one reason I don't use any rubber hose for vent pipe. If your in a winter area where its cold it can and will freeze shut from blowing vapor depending on how far back you vent goes. Again I've seen a guy that extended back past the bellhousing and the tip of the hose froze shut on him blowing out seal/gasket. That's why the design was not only for offroad but to keep the end from plugging or freezing shut. Just food for thought. Few other thoughts. Like on manuals the shaft can move forward and back a bit causing a whine noise in a wore out trans. This could happen possibly on a auto too. 4WD? transfer case is the same thing. Drive line like someone else mention earlier. Drive line is a bit tricky to spot issues I would suggest pulling the shaft to check u-joints if there is any shaft load it will feel tight and fine. Removed you can check and feel for gritty movement or looseness. My thought place me at a shaft or something sliding back against deceleration and running on a bad bearing or something. Have you check the fluids to look for any glitter or discoloration?

Talk to @Dynamic he can tell you how to mod the valve body to get lock up in all gears. Yeah without seeing what your world is like it not exactly easy to tell what you need. Just using the local knowledge of what I have to drive... Yeah I've got a few in the 18 to 19% range too... That are unmarked. I've got communities that that are steep dirt roads and speed limits of either 25 MPH or 15 MPH depending on the community. With grades reaching the 16 to 18% for sure. Yeah for me I would have to have lock up in all gear on a auto. Again it comes back to what kind of world you live in. Like some one in Midwest US I would say yeah you don't need lockup in all gears 3rd and 4th would be fine.

I hope it works out for you. I'm still very much so on the fence about hybrid or electric vehicles yet. I've just seen anything that can do the mileage like a petro or diesel can.

Yea I get it. Lil' Red isn't being used any longer and was sitting under a tree. 1500 can't haul very much weight and being a short bed even less weight. As for Best and Thor they get used daily they can haul weight and tow the RV. Not to mention both Thor and Beast get better MPG over Lil' Red. Kind of like saying I'm going to buy a Toyota Pirus and going to need a bump rack to haul stuff piled car high. Why not have a vehicle that can do everything? I'll admit Lil' Red was a good grocery getter but that about it.

On the damper there is two tick marks in the damper if it lined up and not wobbling then your fine. Since I did a crankcase vent mod I've never had a damper issue being no oil gets down there.

As injector pop pressure start to drop off below 290 bar typically it picks up a random studder or miss. Mostly will be seen after warm up usually. Even a bad nozzle that is cracked will do it all the time.

Out here I use all gears with the exhaust brake. Some mountain rods are steep with speed limits on some roads as low as 15 MPH.

Check your turbo?