Mopar1973Man

CCD network issue. P1698 and/or P1694. P1694 is the ECM is not able to listen or talk on the network. P1698 is the PCM is not able to listen or talk on the network. Since it's the ECM you'll have to check few connections. The screw down connector in the PDC. Then the two connectors on the cowl near the fuel filter. You might have to ohm out the CCD network from end to end. Also you can check the CCD voltage too. It should be 2.49 volts and 2.51 volt after all the modules stop talking this can be done in the OBDII port.

??? Weird... I thought it was part of the package? The Edge boost elbow is well rather good and bad. It will provide boost to about 35 PSI but not adjustable. The cheap adjustable brass elbows don't work too great either very hard to get the right pressure limit barely twist 1/16 a turn could be 10 PSI difference. Now some here did a wastegate spring and adjust spring pressure till the drive pressure blows the waste gate open. A few of us found adjustable wastegate regulators that is hook in the waste pressure hose. this is not what I got but I got a China made that was $7 or so. The one below is about GBP 12.95 Approximately US $17.67.

Need to get your 65 MPH up around 2k RPM to catch me. Like 245/70 R17 would match me ratio wise.

Same tank now at 400 miles at half tank. I'm in Caldwell ID. I've got enough fuel even to drive back home. Yeah I've got the tune dialed in.

You would have to change the timing slightly maybe? Being pop pressure is low and timing is more advance than stock 310 bar. Rest of it should work good. Just for info this is the 3rd time I'm doing 250 miles on a 1/4 tank. Still very efficient pyro is much lower than level ZERO.

Most likely an open circuit since the other lights are working. Start with a test light.

https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ As far as visually the skies have been clear the last few days. Rained pretty good yesterday I went out with a friend to help gather lodge pole for his daughter to build a bunk bed. Then hauled to McCall with him for to deliver 3 cords of firewood in his 1994 Dodge Cummins (+140 HP injectors). Then came back home for a bit and had dinner with him as well last night. But here at my place its wet for sure and nothing will burn.

I took a brake light switch apart one time to see the locking part of the pin and it so SIMPLE design. The bad part was getting all back together. Once I did it worked flawless. The second one I pull it out and carefully pried on the pin till it clicked twice and the n re-installed and that truck the brake light were stuck on. After the two clicks outward it was off.

@Sycostang67 He came and gone already I did the +100 HP injectors with new connector tubes, and then did the ARP studs for him. The only thing I ran out of time for was doing the W-T ground wire mod but next time I head south I hook up and do the W-T ground wire mod.

Its going to be the same wire colors as the fender wires and just leaves the tailgate and heads under the bed to hand the tailgate 3 lights. Same Black/Yellow leads.

After doing injectors and head studs for @Sycostang67 I seen how close the his exhaust pipe is to the firewall. Part of it is he opted for true 4 inch pipe. Not like typically 3 to 4 kits.

I just found my old window sticker and just thinking how good the Dodge Cummins held it price. At the same time I'm watching the parts market and there is shortages on common parts and some parts are going up in price too for our trucks.

That's why I was asking about learning here. I really trust you guys for info but randomly watching YouTube can be risky like watching a YouTube about tightening a 5th gear nut with chisel and hammer. I know that information is incorrect and will not work at all. That way all you can confirm info and then we all learn together with correct info. Once the forum thread is gathered up info the create an article for everyone.

Like I mention you can pull the pin out carefully it will ratchet out. But be careful this can't be done too many times. Brake light switch is pretty cheap.

I'd love to learn for sure. Only thing I've done is lube changes. Never had an axle fail yet in all my years. Love reading all this just wish I could see how it was done. All the stuff about backlash and heel toe settings I'm not sure on.

I wish I could watch one of you doing all this then understand better. Yup never done any gear work ever.

Wiring map...

Yeah but I've got no clue how to set all that up. How to torque it etc. Last article here mentions torque on the pinion nut being quite high and needing a torque multiplier. I know the article is gone but I never done any axle work before. I've always had shops do the repair. If you have the knowledge on this it would be great to have an new article made...

That is something I would love to learn someday. Never done any axle work ever.

Sounds like you need to do a W-T ground mod.

I would rather crawl under my 2002 Dodge any day over any Common Rail. More expensive and bigger pain in ... Everyone tends to forget I work thousands of vehicles, Ford, Chevy, Dodge and plenty of rice too.

Exactly what I see people selling there 3rd, 4th or 5th gen trucks and wanting a 2nd gen. There is a high demand for 2nd gen trucks here.

Secret... I've been using a 6500w Harbor Frieght generator. It fairly quiet, has 240 but I only use the 120V for the inverter. Inverter only allows clean power. Frequency has to be really close to 60 Hz. Other than that it drops the generator because it's dirty power. Voltage as well has to be between a range I set. 130V upper and no lower than 115V again out of range the generator is dropped. Even better yet my inverter is old. It a old modified sine-wave. Never had any electronic failure from dirty power. Computers, TV, cellphones, tablet, any thing it will not be damaged. So me I don't have to have at Honda Invertered Generator I can save money use a cheap harbor freight no issues.

Nope. Already got 240V generator. But my system is all 120V except the well pump which uses a step up transformer.

Basically its just best to have all the 2002 stuff. Engine loom, ECM and PCM, then change the cam and gear, then the gear case too. Then everything works totally normally. All the wiring is right. There is differences between ECM and PCM then there might be other weird issues. 98.5 to 2000 is a single tooth cam gear just for TDC marker that is all. Take note that the single tooth is on the outer gear rim. Now look at later series... The tone wheel is inside the rim hence why the gear case change... The crank sensor was later relocated from the crank to the cam and the old cam sensor done away with (clear as mud I know). You would have to look at wiring maps and you'll see the crank wiring was relocated to the cam, the the old cam sensor is not connected in the ECM plug any more. Hence its just best to have the full wiring loom. Again because of software differences PCM might not talk to the newer ECM because of communication differences and how data is sent. This is why its best to have both the ECM and PCM now reflashed for the newer software and matching this will reduce communication errors and issues. Now 98.5 to 2000... ECM plug. Now 2000 to 2002 ECM plug... Take notice that the old Cam Sensor lead is open now and no longer used but the crank sense is renamed to Cam sensor but its still wired to the Crank sensor pin in the ECM. Pin 9 has no wire...