Mopar1973Man

Well you might be in for a surprise if I ever rode with you... My tail rarely stays on the seat long... I'm normally up on 1 knee pulling the ATV to one side and haul arse up a hill or side hill... Dang I would love to ride with you just once...

Yeap it goes where ISX has the second smaller braided line... It's a 1/8" NPT hole... Typically just got a plug in it...

I did the redneck method... Chain wrapped around the tire... That kind of wild riding on a icy forestry road...

As for doing a P-pump conversion you can buy 2 VP44 for the price of the conversion... Not to mention all the little things you got to send to the shop to be delt with like having the injectors re-popped for the p-pump, throttle linkage, getting the shut off solenoid, changing lift pumps and buying the new lift pump... There is a bunch of little things to be aware of before jumping towards the conversion...

Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter (Fig. 13) that breaks up small contaminants that enter the injector. The edge filter uses the injectors pulsating high-pressure to break up most particles so they are small enough to pass through the injector. If there is actual debris inside the injector it will require you to remove them and clean the by disassembly. As far as I'm concerned there is no actual injector cleaner that will remove debris from inside the injector... You can soak it in cleaner and it wil still have debris in the injector... Sad but true...

Well it looks like you had fun... You one crazy SOB on 2 wheels...

Actually he still beggin' for marshmellows...

Try this one... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=128

Sorry to say 2 cycle oil won't clean out a blockage... Then more than likely the Edge Filters in the connector tube would prevent the debris from entering the injectors. Question: Did the stock injectors fix the stalling issues?

Hey ISX... How did you do for MPG number on the trip towing? Also I'm curious did you have any problems with engine temp without your fan in place?

From what he told me last night on the phone... For $1,200 bucks in this transmission and got 300K plus on this transmission I'd say he got his money worth...

Sorry to say even I've got torque management with a 5 speed transmission... Right around 25-30 MPH it releases and all hell breaks loose for me... 1st and 2nd are mild... But 3rd is a whole new animal...

That's sad to hear... Hey CajFlynn you could talk to JohnFak he's in St. Louis area...

Well GlowShift is one of the cheaper gauges on the market but fairly popular too. I tend to agree the the GlowShift gauge look better over the Autometer. Not to mention your 0-100 PSI fuel pressure gauge is a bit wide don't you think?

The only thing to remember about doing work on anything around the airbag requires you to disconnect both batteries for a period of time to discharge the firing capacitor for the air bags. So after that you safe... If it was me before I'd go through the trouble of doing a clock spring I would test the clockspring for opens and short with a DVM from pin to pin. This way you can also check the control switches too...

Well I sorry to say I checked over my books and didn't find anything about the tone ring torque specs... So if it was me I would torque it to the specs of the bolts capacity and use some locktite on it as well...

Hmmm... I would say to look at wiring looms and see if something is getting pinched...

In your case the IAT sensor sense the temp reports it back to the ECM and either uses one or both grid heaters to warm the intake. I would check for error codes to see if the P0380 or P0382 pops up that would tell you if you relays are good. There is a fusable link near the batter running down to the grid heaters. So check and see if the at the relays (studs). Then using a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or simular check and see if the IAT is dropping below 65*F or is showing a invalid temp say like 90*F on a 50*F morning. This points to a failed sensor within limits but will not trip a error code. Tell you the truth you don't need grid heaters till about 40*F...

Doing my mod will put a extra 2-3" worth of height on the pipe and make it that much more highier and les likely to make a mess... Yea I do put a drip on the shop floor now and then but very little mess under the truck.

At this point they should be filled with non-null value of the next service of each.

Give CaJFlynn a call he wants someone to look at a truck for him... (To buy)

http://engineserviceinc.net/Light_Duty.html This should work for ya...

Edge Juice = Edge Comp Edge Juice (Hot Unlock) = Edge Comp Drag They are basically the same module with the same programming... The Edge Juice though on the hot unlock has a 6th level... When the Comp only has the 5 levels and then I think they both fuel all the way to redline. The only difference is Edge Juice got all the pretty toys and Edge Comp well is just a box...

That error code normally comes from the Smarty... If you return to stock setting, clear your codes and run awhile you find the code never comes back till you put the Smarty back on again....