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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. As far as I know there is no gasket for the front cover and most people just silcone the cover on. As for removal... Fan belt, fan and pulley, crank damper and pulley... So that should get you at it... Knowing the filler neck is steel I would remove it find a piece of copper pipe and soldier a patch over the hole in the filter neck. I done this kind of patch work on steel fuel tanks when the owner got over zealous and drilled into the fuel tank. (Not me!)
  2. Mopar1973Man replied to HayHauler's topic in Introductions
    Welcome to the group... Sound like you got a good deal on a truck that was repaired and freshen up...
  3. Chip is technically like the enhancement box... This comes from the gasoline engines where people phyiscally pulled the the "Chip" out of the early GM vehicle and replaced them with a "Enhanced Chip". But as you know there is no way to do this on our trucks so its either "Re-Flash" the ECM with a "Programmer" or use a "Enhancement Box"...
  4. All elbows are 90* fittings... But there is a male/female threaded coupling to allow removal of the down pipe.
  5. Passing on a message for CajFlynn from a cell call... Could someone take a look at a truck for me down in the Houston, TX area... Please contact CajFlynn at 303-570-4325
  6. I think that's 1/2" or 5/8" ID hose...
  7. Shopping list... 3 slip-slip elbows1 slip-male thread elbow1 slip-female thread coupling2 hose clamps6" of 3/4" heater hose4-5 feet of 1/2" PVC pipe
  8. Most programmers are limited to 60 HP that's it... I think there is only so far you can go with values before the ECM just goes . But Now most fueling/timing boxes max out at 120 HP... Except Quadzilla Adrenaline at 150 HP... But since most fueling/timing boxes alter the signal after the ECM and can extend well beyond the limits of the ECM software so this why most boxes tend to produce more power. But like I told you ISX on the phone the wire tap to the solenoid on the VP44 is the factor that adds the fuel beyond the ECM's abilities. So without the wire tap most boxes limit to 40-60 HP period... So the theory is if you beef up the ECM signal and getting more fuel then the box would add more fuel on top of that signal too. Now Smarty is able to cut back the torque management and get the fuel started heavy and hard down low were most boxes can't do it because they are at the mercy of the ECM's torque management. So with the stack it should produce a wicked combo. But now running 3 fueling mods with White's idea...
  9. Theory of it... Programmer (Smarty) -> ECM -> External Box (Edge) -> VP44 So the programmer like Smarty alters the timing and fuel tables within the ECM so they are enhanced over stock values. Now the ECM assumes these are normal now. Edge modules sees the "Stock Values" and adds more fuel and timing to this and send this signal to the VP44... But thing to be careful of is not to stock 2 timing products together because over advancement of timing can occur and wipe out your pistons and rings... So like in the example above Smarty is normally ran in a non-timing program and the Edge would add more fuel and timing against the signal. The old school combo I remember was TST and Smarty... TST was a fuel only box and Smarty was a fueling and timing programmer so you got the best of both worlds. This fad slowly kind of faded away for awhile because with the Smarty people were finding certain combonations of boxes and programers where canceling out and other combos did better... --- Update to the previous post... Stacking is like what you run without a AFC and Plate...
  10. Most critical numbers in my mind is... 1. HFRR score of the current fuel meeting the requirements of the VP44. (Lubricity value) 2. The fuel pressure at wide open throttle operation. Bosch requires the fuel lubricity to be of a score less than 400 HFRR for long life of the injection pump. But todays fuel averages right around 520 HFRR. I'm using 2 cycle oil to beef up the fuel lubricity but there are several products that do a really good job of adding lubricity. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm Then since there is only fuel to lubricate the injection pump during its maximum amount of stress at WOT operations should be enough fuel pressure to keep it lubed. Dodge/Cummins suggest 10 PSI as a minimum I suggest a minimum of 14 PSI. Beyond that enjoy your Dodge Cummins Truck...
  11. I kind of wonder how much timing it going to produce? Is it going to be too much or not? I seen several different setup ans listings of setups but I tend to be wary about excessive stacking...
  12. That little pulse is meanless really... Because in some ECM flashes its disabled completely and others run longer. What matters is your cranking fuel presure, idle fuel pressure and WOT fuel pressure...
  13. Tidbit... Orignal article here... http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:YvbbijNC9ycJ:www.stocksy.co.uk/articles/Cars/diesel_particulate_filters_dpfs_and_rising_oil_levels_the_uk_government_demonstrates_the_law_of_unintended_consequences/+%5Cbiodiesel+engine+problems+dpf&cd=4&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us Another article http://www.biodieselmagazine.com/article.jsp?article_id=2290 Another article from my site... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2158-Biofuels-emit-400-percent-more-CO2-than-regular-fuels?highlight=biodiesel And the damaging effects of poor biodiesel http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/93-Bio-Diesel-and-the-effects...?highlight=biodiesel
  14. Interesting... I would love to get one just to play with...
  15. I know for a fact all these miles were done on petroluem oils... I think its Chevron Delo 15W-40 is what he told me... But maybe he'll tell...
  16. So far I found Mobil One and Chevron Delo are both good choices without that odor... Now Shell Rotella (Rosmella) is stinky one...
  17. Makes looking at a failed VP44 injection pump seem cheap comapred to that... I know the CR 5.9L are expensive still at ~$3,000 for a set of stock 6 injectors... Actually a good suggestion is anyone with a 6.7 or 5.9L common rail change to 2-3 micron fuel filters and double up your filters...
  18. P1693 code means there is another code present... So your going to need to keep trying to get the other code to present itsself. As for fuel pressure what is your ilde pressure and WOT pressure?
  19. Well if your looking for lubricity of the fuel then you'll only need B2 to exceed the requirement by a long shot. (221 HFRR) compared to petroluem diesel at (520 HFRR) then Bosch requesting (<400 HFRR). As for the injectors it best ot buy a set of injectors that don't require cores then if you need to diagnose a fuel problem you KNOW that your old stock injectors are just fine...
  20. Got 2 choices like the TSB says from Dodge... 1. Change the brand of oil your using... 2. Suffer though the smell... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/tsb-09-02-00.htm
  21. B20 is the safe limit... I don't suggest use of it in the winter time either being the bio will turn solid and sink to the bottom of the tank typically. There is also something to be aware of is the BioDiesel in any DPF filter system are causing serious engine damage and the reason why is the period during the DPF regen the biodiesel is being pushed past the rind and diluting the engine oil. I've seen several reports now of VW and a few other makers revising oil change internvals to less than typical value to prevent engine damages... The most recent article here is how Biodiesel creates 400% more emssions than normal petroluem diesel...
  22. Thanks ISX I knew your the go to man for this...
  23. If I remember right there is 8 bolts all from the underside of the truck... ISX just got done doing it he could tell you quick...

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