Mopar1973Man

Yeap I ran the Dyno at 381/826 and 379/831 back in 2007 with just a Edge Comp, BHAF and striaght pipe exhaust. But now I've got RV275 injectors and I know I'm eith at or just crossing the 400 HP mark. The only thing you'll find is the stock clutch will begin to slip at the 380-400 HP to the ground mark. So I up grade to South Bend Con OFE single disk clutch and hold tight even hauling 2 cords of firewood up hill. Stay after you fluid changes... Yeah I know the stuff is expensive but it cheap insureance for keeping the transmission happy. Crossing 175K miles and never had a issue with the trans yet... (NV4500) 200K here I come!

I think its more of the fact the low fuel pressure robs the VP44 electroincs of cooling fuel and the electronic get heat stress and begin to act weird and strange. But the P0216 is the prove of it... (Best guess theory...)

Welcome to the site... Glad you joined... The sites theme is more about long life from the engine while still getting a bit more bang for the buck. Yeah stock is boring but there is way of improving your truck with out costing a arm and leg and still get lot of miles out of it... Welcome to the site and bring some pictures in... Lets see your ride!

Ummmm... It should be...

Mine is solely heat related... Only occurs after high pyro runs... It will start to misfire randomly. Once the pyro cools down to 300-350*F miss is gone most times. I'm going to say it going to be injector related more so... But not sure if its pop pressure, design flaw, etc...

Another way to look at blowby... If your blow is so extreme that you loosing large amounts of oil out the breather tube its excessive. If the dipstick is dripping oil its excessive. If the oil cap on the valve cover pop out of your hand while loosen it the blow excessive. I seen this on a 3rd gen... OMG!

I see what Flman getting at... He's talking about hose cheapy $30 kits with a low side gauge hose, can of freon and a can of oil. Being it doesn't cover the high side there is no way to see the amount of expansion the freon has created from heat. Or if the high side switch had failed (exceeding safe pressure levels). Now if the guy had a manifold gauge set he might never of added any freon... (Maybe?)

I feel the love here...

(Temporary hijack) Actually the search function suppose to be repaired by Version 4.2.0 (Back to the normal thread) I think ISX has all the specs on how to build it now he was playing with it and could exactly get it to work after taking to a few people he got it worked out... There is a tee and offrice added to the setup to make it work. (Never mind... :banghead:)

Yea... Simple way to think about it... That VP44 pump only has fuel lubricating all the moving parts. Bosch (not Cummins or Dodge) requires at least 70% of the fuel to be return to the fuel tank. This is used for cooling and lubricanting purpose. Once the fuel pressure dips down below 12 PSI the fuel should start to tapper off and now at 10 PSI the flow has stopped to flowing back to the return line to the tank. Here is the overflow valve. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU At the end of the video the small trickle is what it looks like while the engine is running and liftp pump is below 10 PSI. There is no return... Now in you stock setup the lift pump is know for 2 failures the rotor head to slip or the pressure regulator failure internally in the lift pump. No the plastic hub is not suppose to slip or fall out like these pics. So sad to say the thing that could of saved you about $1,800 bucks is a simple $40 dollar fuel pressure gauge and it would of alerted you to the lift pump failure that actually caused the P0216 code which happen to be a phyiscal wear failure of the timing cam internally in the VP44 cause from lack of fuel pressure. Because now you going to need to replace the VP44, lift pump (suggest AirDog, Raptor, or FASS - Not a FASS DDRP), and get a fuel pressure gauge.

Now a little deeper. As everyone knows there is a HX35 and HY35 turbos. HX35 are 12cm2 at the exhaust opening and the HY35 are 9cm2 at the exhaust opening. HY35 allowed for the turbos to spool up faster for the automatics vs. the HX35 which was used on the manuals. Now I know there is a lot of poor man tuners out there and heard of several stories of taking the exhaust housing off and changing with a 16cm2 to make it breathe more. Which it will this will drop the drive pressure and EGTs but increase the amount of lag and smoke. So with a larger exhaust housing your going to need much more fuel to spin and the same amount of boost as previous boost level but now your boost limit is higher and EGT will climb slower. This is where AH64ID idea of use VG turbo on his 3rd gen going to be awesome. Be able to control the exhaust housing electronically in the cab. In the city be able to close it down to like a 9cm2 and have quick spool from light to light controlling smoke. But hit the interstate and open it up to like a 22cm2 and allow it to breathe. (Curious how that going???)

Time to put some expanding foam in the holes.

Dang puppies... Give them a bunch of horsepower and they tell you stories of how speed doesn't kill its the sudden stop that does...

Actually if you disconnect the APPS sensor or the batteries you suppose to re-calibrate the ECM again by disconnection the batteries and going through the process.

I'm glad it worked out for you... Hang around and learn some more...

I'm thinking about getting a o-ring kit and just redo the o-rings in the system... The only thing else is to soap the compressor and check it for leaks...

Thanks for the soap idea... I'll give that a shot... As for a freon sniffer I don't have one... But the evaporator is brand new I installed it this spring...

Hey ISX that's a awesome idea... It might even be a good idea to a adjustable spoiler on the rear of the topper so it deflects the wind up and over the top of the roof...

Ok Gang... I need to pick someones brain... I've got a pretty good leak in the A/C system for it to leak out all pressure to 0 PSI in about 2 weeks. I've got a dye pack in the system but haven't noticed the green tint oil anywhere yet. I'm thinking of grabbing a single can of R134a and add it to the system for pressure and black light the whole thing again... Any ideas or suggestions?

Well Gang... I got the Cummins out of the shop and pull the 96 Gasser in to look it over and check fluids and such. Pull the spark plugs and check the gap and condition. Surprisingly the plugs where in excellent condition and only a few needed a bit of tweaking on the gap. I found a coolant leak and the surprise of it was I knew there was one because of the constant loss of coolant but couldn't see it. Then as the truck warmed up everytime you'd smell the sweet smell of coolant... Found it! The leak was on the corner of the intake manifold and the last bolt of the row was not exactly torqued tight... I'm planing on doing much more with this truck very soon... I'm planing on getting the trans shifting better with a new governor solenoid, ATF & filter change, band adjustment, etc... I want to get both of the truck around here working good. So now you might start seeing small write ups on Mopar V8 gasoline engines now too...

Ouch... Now pull the battery cable and retrain the APPS sensor... When you pull the battery cables you loose the APPS setting but the DTC's will remain forever... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm (Bottom of the page)

Yea... The 99's had cam and crank sensors both but the crank sensor is the one used for the tach gauge.

Hmmm... You might have to get a scan tool of your own to keep in the truck. Being there is no way for you to use the key trick because of the year of the truck. But if you had a scan tool of your own you could look at the code when the light appears. But what is strange is the code is disappearing quickly... The rules of self erasing codes is that the vehicle must complete 40 warm up cycles without triggering a error code again. As for the CEL light it can be reset as soon as 3-5 key cycles. But now as for warm up cycles the engine must start out below 140*F and rise above 165*F to be considered a warm up cycle. This might take several days if not months... So you might want to check with a different place with a different scan tool. Oh a tidbit for ya... If you think pulling the battery leads will kill off the error codes it won't. You can leave it discontected for years and hook it back up and the code will be there...

Here is what I pack under the back seat... The only thing I'm missing is a big enough wrench for the fuel lines and a wrench for the injector lines...

Actually your close in figuring it out ISX... I'll give you a clue that there is 2 different ECMs out... Manual ECM has a idle governor and the AUTO doesn't have a idle governor so if something is dragging hard transmission, alternator, A/C etc it might be enough to stall it.