Mopar1973Man

Too me that doesn't look bad for metal dust... But the color of the fluid looks dark and burnt in color... I would consider changing the fluid, TC, and VB and see how it holds up... I really hate like hell to point the the finger at something before trying something simple... Do you have a trans temp gauge?

I'm all ears... Smack the tanks on EdCasey post... I'm sure he'd enjoy that...

Subscribing...

Timbo is selling his APPS sensor all over the place... So there is several other dealers selling them now at prices near what Timbo sell for...

Bad ISX! Bad boy...

Actually its a drop in cartridge like ours but you got to drop the bowl away from the mount to remove the filter. Where on ours its a plastic screw lid. The filter look almost the same.

When I did Taz's 1992 Dodge I used a air hammer to drive the old joints out of the A arms. Trust me it was a PITA to do...

I've got a local recycler center that picks it up for the state shed heater for heat... Now if you wanted to get rid of it slowly you could filter it back down 2 micron and add 1 quart to every tank of fuel. I don't suggest this really but it has been done. (Just another option)

Here it is... 3/4" pipe plug... Is the one you want... If its a 1/2" pipe plug your going to get a bath...

He's cleared 625K miles on his 1992 Dodge 350 (2WD)

Here is the Timbo APPS install write up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1527-Timbo-APPS Making a temporary sticky so I can add it to the archives...

LOL! I'm no better... I break out the CLR cleaner and spray down the shower stall, toilet, sink and kick the crap out of the funk ring in the toilet, strip the soap scum off the shower door and put a big ol' smile on Mom... Which she admits her arthritis is getting to her... Worse part there is 3 bathrooms here on the property.. (2 in the main house and 1 in the gust house/shop)

Simple... 1. Drain the tank the best you can and disconnect the filler tube and vent tube.2. Drop the carrier bearin on the driveshaft an tie towards the passenger side.3. Reach up and unscrew the sender ring.4. Now loosen the tank band and ease the tank tank and away from the frame allowing the sender to slide up and out of the tank. 5. Now that the tank is remove you can get to the fuel connections and unplug the wiring easy... I do things the easy way...

Join the club... 2nd cup and wound up tight now... But as for setting the voltage on a old sensor. Typical the sensor is sold complete assembled and calibrated so you don't need to adjust a new sensor. Also after playing with mine I thing people are confused about the voltage mark on the tag. This is the voltage where the On/Off idle switch trade out. So if your ABOVE this voltage then the APPS is OFF IDLE and if your below this voltage then your ON IDLE. So if you voltage is a bit low is fine. But if you voltage is above the printed tag then systems like high idle, exhaust brake, transmission shifting, etc don't work properly because the ECM/PCM always assume your pushing the throttle. I know I need to revise this way of thinking and post a update in my APPS write up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=970

Wow! A second good article in a row! I know its just the spec on oil but very handy to understand some of the specs...

Thanks you saved me a trip to the shop...

Drain the tank... And drop the tank... I've taken mine out replace the sender with a $70 one from the Dodge Dealer and re-installed the tank in under 1 hour... Really simple to do and you don't need a bunch of guys to hoist your bed off the truck.

The only thing I see wrong with doing that is that the sender is most likey no compatable with the the PCM. Also then you would have to install the matching gauge for that sender.

Give me a bit I'll get you a pic this morning sometime once I get down to my shop...

That is truely amazing that after that testing to find out Synthetic oil did not hold up as good as there touted. Even to find out some of the cheap stuff like Chevron Delo rated higher on the scale than most Synthetics... Truely amazing stuff. I always wonder about the Wally world stuff and funny to see it middle ground. But now knowing the Napa line is good and Chevron Delo is good stuff I know where I'm buying my oils now... Thank you for the information! Now this confirm what Dorkweed is doing now and still going... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1688-80-000-Miles......No-Full-Oil-Change Saving Money...

:lmao:Grateful dead??? But I sure love old country too...

That raises a question then... Does the testing with Blackstone capable of detecting if the oil has been cooked or not?

Well... There is some people claiming that you can put up to 40 PSI to a VP44 without damage. But like in another thread we all found out that the VP44 has a internal regulator too set at 15-16 PSI so going over 20 PSI is over kill basically in my mind. But as long as low side stays above 15 PSI you should be fine.

I've play with Red Hat Linux a few time I love the idea no need for virus protection and firewall... It just rock solid. But not really world compatible though... That what my old AMD 800 MHz lapto for... Non-internet functions. It does a awesome job as a stand alone machine as long as you never hook it to the internet...

I know there are some of you that dread the day hen the voltage regulator gives up the ghost because you know the PCM has to be replaced... Well I dug up the information and artwork for doing a old school regulator to replace the PCM function. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-reg/voltage-reg.htm