Mopar1973Man

There is the man with the miles...

Be careful what you ask for... I just got up from my chair and head right out to the shop and shot the pics and came back in and uploaded them to the site... Here is a 6 year old filter without a Outerwears, no maintenance, and filter filter minder still not moved... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=925 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=924 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=923 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=922 How to test your filter minder... Yes I did have a outerwears for about 1 year but the constant bouncing and rubbing wore holes in the outerwears so I toss it out... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2jd7XsYrKI Every year I'm out on dirt road making trips up and down the mountain... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=928

4" is usually easy to install and fits with your spare tire... 5" I heard can be rather difficult to fit and some have had to remove there spare tire out from under the truck. Now as for noise... I've heard many stories... But I think the 5" is louder than 3" or 4"... IMHO...

As far as I know of there isn't any engine brakes out there for the ISB engines. But there is several styles of exhaust brakes out. Give you an idea of how much its save your brake pads. I'm still traveling on my factory brake pads from 2002 when I bought the truck new. I've got over 166K on the clock and might do a brake job around 200K miles. That's not bad in my book. This includes crawling down the Idaho mountains with a 8x8 utility trailer hauling nearly 3 cords of firewood (truck loaded too).

Ok Gang... I've got a project coming up. I need to change my A/C evaporator out and know I need to pull the dash out... Throw me a bone here guys tell me the secrets of doing this job and any special tools I might need. Because the last thing I want to do is drive 100 miles round trip because I forgot something or have to pull it apart again because I should of done it another way... I knew this day was coming...

I might have to change those screws out when I pull my HVAC out to do my A/C Evaporator...

Talk to CajFlynn... He hauls boats cross country some that are even wide loads...

I've really consider upgrading my exhaust but...

Actually from what I heard high pressure doesn't tear the diaphragm it's extremely low pressure that does. Yeah there is a good thread about fuel pressure and some of the tidbit we all learned about over here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1656-VP44-Write-Up-Minimum-pressure-suggested... But typically most will suggest you stay in the green. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=374

Good to hear it... I'm going to be changing another TP roll myself really soon every 2,500 miles and changing the oil every 10K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=363 They got to be filtering out the trash... Are you still running WalMart SuperTech Engine Oil too?

Color doesn't count... What counts is how much vacuum (water column) its creating... Mine is road dirt grey and still not creating any vacuum yet... I just check the old filter minder...

I got mine through Diesel Manor for about $9 bucks a filter...

Here is a few pics...

Is it possible you broke the friction plate with the spring pack??? This made the clutch drag in all gear 1st through 5th and including Reverse... Then always made a popping noise on engagement.

You mean??? http://www.sunpro.com/product_category.php?id=331

I heard of these too that replace the vacuum motor with a pull cable.. This way you could actually get 2WD LO range...

Or like a manual 5/6 speed trans gets reather warm too because of the same reason... No coolers, etc...

Hmmm... I've been 6 years basically without a pre-filter (116K miles) and still running the same filter... I did have a outwears pre-filter but it did last long about 9 months I rubbed holes in it and gave up... So back to filter by itself... Most of my truck life is on dirt roads since the only paved road is US95 highway... But if your looking for a prefilter try over at www.vulcanperformance.com at BHAF for a price of $33

Well... Typically most of all my loaded towing is downhill from the mountain and don't have to pull far... But now I've rebuilt my trailer and been tugging around my ATV and other stuff I found that keeping right around 60-65 MPH (1,800-1,900) isn't to bad I netted ~18 MPG on my trip over to the Brownlee Res. for a fishing trip.

I'm assuming your talking about the pipe heading towards the intercooler right? Ok to double check yourself... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/turbo/turbo.htm Truely there should be no oil inside the air piping at all... The only source is the turbo... So double check the turbo closely and see if there is other traces (or clues)...

I can't seem to find a MSDS page or document on the product... I did find where there tested on a train engine (diesel) in Oxnard, Ca. The net results were that the emmissions where reduced by 11% but so was the HP rating too...

Yeah... I checked mine its warm to the touch but not really bad...

Take a 2x4 and rap in a rag and now place it over the piston. This will keep the piston from getting damaged. Now use compressed air to get them up. WARNING! If your using air pressure part(s) can fly and protect yourself properly. Watch your hand and fingers to make sure they don't get smashed! Once the pistons are out you can remove all the seals and wash the caliper with soap and water. Blow dry with compressed air to prevent rusting. Now since all the seal are removed. The piston should fall to the bottom of the bore without PUSHING! If not light sand the piston with light sandpaper (600 grit or higher) and then try again. The piston should not hang up at all. So now the pistons are tuned in for each bore re-assemble then and during the assembly process lube the pistons up with brake fluid before assemble. At this point the piston will take more effort to push into the bore. Seat them completely to the bottom. Now re-assmeble, mount, bleed, and seat the brake pads...

Yeap... 1. Shim the spring.2. Get a different spring.3. Or stretch it out (not suggested) You might notice the problem I see every year or so the plastic check ball wedges down into the coil of the spring reducing the pressure. Just pull the spring back out of the coil and re-install and usually you'll see a 1-2 PSI gain.

If you both are paying attention I was playing with a fire truck that day so since I've got a 1 1/2 Fire Hydrant in the yard I figured it would be a great to fill the Redneck swiming pool... I hate to say I never got in it being I know my water is cold (40-45*F) all year long.. Using a fire truck that got 1,000 GPM pump you can fill a truck bed in quite a hurry... As for pictures... I've got only 7,200+ pictures only taking 5 GB worth of space on my 25 GB hard drive partition...