Mopar1973Man

Last I time I did the clean up of a turbo I used brake cleaner. Then left it stand in the sun for about an hour to dry up.

Don't feel bad after having my exhaust brake blow the fuse under the hood I couldn't understand why it didn't want to start. After sorting out the fuse problem and the source of the short being the exhaust brake switch makes contact with a ground sometimes and pop goes the fuse. Weekend project... I need to fix this one too. As for the dome light might check power mirrors and any interior lights including glove box. These are typically all on the same fuse.

If your pulling the radiator out take the extra step and pull the intercooler too and clean it out. The face on the bottom half might be mud caked, then if the air filter is poor you can wash out all the dust or any oil that might of come from washable filters or the turbo.

Good idea to do. It will for sure keep you out of trouble too. Don't ask me how I know...

Normal you can remove different modules that could affect the voltage. Modules that can't be removed... PCM - This is source of the CCD network. ECM - This is the secondary computer. Gauge Cluster - This creates the bias voltage. All other modules are optional and can be removed. Central timer Radio (Stock OEM) Air Bag Module ABS Module Overhead Trip Computer Causes of failures and errors. Bus Shorted to Battery Bus Shorted to 5 Volts Bus Shorted to Ground Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open Bus (+) Open Bus (–) Open No Bus Bias Bus Bias Level Too High Bus Bias Level Too Low No Bus Termination Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly Remove a module and check the voltage on the bus to see if it returns. If not you didn't find it.

If you not done the WT ground wire mod that would be highly suggested. Then the power comes from two places. There is a fuse that supplies constant 12V (under hood) to the ECM and then there is a second fuse that supplies trigger voltage double check both fuses (in cab).

Every since changing back to the stock tires. The MPG is improving quite a bit. I drove from Riggins up to Donnelly Idaho and rat raced around for over 200 miles when I got home. I only used a 1/4 tank. Typically I'm already near 1/2 tank. The odometer is now correct and with stock tires size and the MPG number is improving. Just checking the final ratio it nearly the same as what I got on the 2002 Dodge. Right there at 3.73 final ratio is powerful and pulls way better.

Yes your problem is CCD network issues. Another way is to turn the key on and the probe the CCD pins on the OBDII plug under the dash it should show 2.51 and 2.49 when the computers stop talking. That is normal Bias Voltage.

The only problem is the ratchet design won't allow for multiple resets eventually the ratchet will fail.

Valve guide can be replaced. I had 18 out of the 24 replaced on my head at 350k miles. This is why my first head job had $2,100 worth of head work and ARP studs added.

Oh I know it can be bored oversized it just if the current sleeves are shot most just bore it out and re-sleeve. Not many are in for larger power that is a very small percentage which I deal with.

All are low. Normally these engines are 400 to 450 PSI. The rings are wasted and the bores most likely need to be sleeved.

Too big for me... I really don't like being in Boise at all. Reminds me of Los Angeles CA when I left back in 1990. Los Angeles was back back in the 1990. Boise was still behind by about 15 years now it caught up and has all the same problems why I left Los Angeles. I like smaller town and quiet communities.

Looks good. The design I see you tweaked it a bit for the front two elbows I like the way it turned out.

I appreciate the offer but I'm good I'm going for huge power yet till I fix a bunch of rattles and wobbles I've got yet. Adding power now would be a mistake. Gotta finish up the removal of the leveling kits, get the nose back down, get the thrust angle corrected, etc. I'm just happy to see a noted INCREASE in MPG hand math since I got the stock tires back on.

Bad valve guides and seals. Once a valve guide wears it usually start rocking the valve stem a bit which tears up the valve seals.

ECM, PCM and VP44 all get there ground from he passenger side battery (directly). This what the W-T ground wire mod changes.

If you look at the design it has a ratchet design to self adjust during install. If you carefully pull the plunger back out you can re-install it again. Yes I've actually figure it out and been able to re-install two switch before.

The upgraded case they had to add quite a bit of metal around the hole. The old case was a suppose to prevent that but with vibration it eats the aluminum case and then continues to walk through. Hence why the case was redesign with even smaller hole to prevent walking out.

Typically its shaft bearing as you apply load the shaft moves and the kicks the transfer case out of gear. Most common for bearings to get sloppy and the shaft moves.

#1 Diesel would be better than mix #2 diesel. #1 diesel is winter diesel that already has anti-gel more or less. The PPD (Pour Point Depressant) is added and the fuel is distilled with more cetane. Blended #2 is more or less starting with #2 summer diesel and blend in the #1 to give winter time bonus. But pure #1 diesel would be way better. Up here in Idaho we only have blended #2 winter diesel. It still can travel to -40*F without any problem. Only 2 cycle oil and no anti-gels or cetane booster.

On the 2002 dodge 60 all the way around will cover 8,800 pounds. I do all my tire pressures by axle weight. For example the front axle weights 4,440 pounds. My tires have a 3,042 pound capacity at 80 PSI. Total vehicle weight (4,440 + 2,860) = 7,300 pounds on the scale total. Front tires - (4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI Rear axle is 2,860 pounds. Rear tires - (2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI

Very rare to head toward Ontario, OR. or Boise, ID It's been months since I've been down there other than pick up the wheels. I do most of my travels to Lewiston ID now. But very limited on tires shops. After 5 years of back and forth to Ontario it does bring back old memories sometimes. Hence why a tend to go north and make my own memories now. Even in Lewiston when I checked no 18's in stock all have to be ordered. No take offs either. Kind of like my trip home I crossed the construction site at Cambridge ID and remembered how much @MoparMom hated that bridge I even said, " Hey look Mom finally getting to fixing your bridge you hated so bad!", it had a bad bump! RIP - Rosalie Krivda (Mom).

No joke. Truck does really good around McCall with speeds choked down to 45 to 50 MPH. Makes big gains in MPG's. Even show better now the speedometer is correct now. The biggest problem up here NO ONE has 18's in stock. Not even take offs. I check several tires shops around me and nope nothing in stock all has to ordered in. 17's are more common up here than 18's. 16's are super common yet easy to get too and about another $400 less than the 17's. I can buy four 245/75 R16 for $600 here (just 2 years ago). Just paid $1000 for 17's. Remember I'm not in the city where you have selection and price competition.

New rubber done already. I'm much happy with the lower ratio nearly the same as the 2002 Dodge. Just a touch higher RPM about +100 more at 65 MPH compared to 2002. Every where I went trying to get 18's for the old wheels was about 600 to 800 dollars higher. Now just doing stock 17's I can do for just a mere $1,000.