Mopar1973Man

Here is my write up of my install and doing my SBC... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/sbc/sbc.htm

Just make new threads and send me a PM of the post link. Then I convert it to HTML and add it to the site as a permanent page... I'd be glad to post up your works. Might have t ocreate a few stickies and get the 3rd Gen area boosted up... Didn't mean to hijack the thread carry on crew!

I could I use that write up over here as a static page? That really good write up and how to flush the system... Matter of fact its the same as how I do mine...

OMG...

What kind of fuel pressure do you have?

53 block issues is rather hit and miss like the 5th gear nut problem... If you treat the truck right and let it warm up before putting it to serious work and take care of the coolant when needed... Most don't even see a problem with the 53 blocks cracking. I've even seen few of them used in racing applications and still holding up just fine... But since you don't have a 53 block no worries... Just enjoy the long life of your truck...

Surprising to see how many kept the stock stereo. The dimmer lead orange should be affecting it be I guess it does in your just for some odd reason. But I would double check you connection and be sure you not shorting into other leads or gorund by chance. double check you wire color too... I seen a few time where the tracer color was hidden out of sight... You might eve nsee if you can hit that joint connector 5 and tap it there... As for the tires no problem... Just tossing 2 cents...

I've been running one of the older white faced DiPricols now for over 6 years and love it... Looks very much so like the stock gauges in the night.

That caught me off guard... I'm think Fleetguard filters... not Fleggard... THen getting the show to boot... I'm like what kind of ad is this???

No problem here so it drops from 17.5 to 16.5 PSI when the grid heater hit... The noly time the electronic is a issues is if the voltage falls below 8 Volts... I'm still in the 11-12 Volt range on my weakest voltage. My batteries are even stock orignals that are 8 years old now... No problem here now because of the anti-gel package in the fuel I tend to keep using the 2 cycle oil...

I'm also hooked up to the orange wire myself. But I don't have the highline system...(No alram in my truck...) But I'm tapped in at the stereo since the adapter hookes the aftermarket stereo to the dodge connector has the dimmer lead... It open so I used it...

Don't look at my truck then... I've got 235/85 R16 on mine... Pizza cutters solely for the MPG numbers... Larger tire do produce a few problems... 1. Rolling resistance - Increase 2. Rotational Mass - Increase Wider tires tend to always have a loss due to rolling resistance because of the increase face width contacting the highway. Then the other side of the coin wider tire typically get heavier in weight which adds to the rotational mass which requires more HP/TQ to twist. Yeah I know everyone loves the big tire appeal but if you truely after MPG's you need a smaller, narrower, lighter tires... You might even ask for a rolling resistance index and the weight of each tire and compare to smaller size...

I tend to agree...

That's just fine... Most would suggest a pre-mix coolant because it mix with distilled water already. Or you can mix it yourself with distilled water. I've been using Napa, Prestone, Peak what ever is on sale. As for flushing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/cooling/cooling.htm

(Shaking my head) I'm going to stay out of it... :rolleyes:Take notice to one thing... The guy doing all the talking is a Injection pump specialist... Hmmm... Yeap make since start bragging about making a injection pump run at 5 PSI so you can sell more injection pumps. I stil think is a good idea to stick with specs from the factory...

I'm thankful I never really got into sports... But nice that he had fun...

No... The grid heaters are disable after a starting temperature of above 60*F in the manifold... Most block heaters will warm the IAT up to about 100-110*F... Once again that coolant passage in the manifold...

ATF as far as I know won't hurt the system if you use it... I've seen several truck localy use ATf in the power steering. I use to use it in my old 1972 dodge because ATF was cheap and it had a small leak... That goes along with brake fluid...

Went to snag it back for us... Great work there in the information...

As far as what I can find in the Factory Service Manual (Dodge, Mitchell1, and AllData) it should be power steering fluid...

Not bad... Great tool for logging information kind of like my ScanGauge II but your is a laptop data tool!... Now as for the IAT temps start with a cold engine and note the outside temp on there and then drive till it warms up then you see the IAT starts at the same temp as outside but as the coolant temp rises the IAT temp will rise too. But since you coolant is on the cold side you offset is going to be less. So taking a guess at your data logs and the data given the temp for the day was about 35*F right?

Now if we roll back time to the 1989 to 1991 Dodge trucks I bet the CAI would do a world of good being there is no intercooler... So basically the stock filter was the best being the air was pulled from the front bumper. But now the turbo charger warmed it up, then the manifold, etc... But since the 1989 to 1991 model years had mechanical pumps it didn't change the timing or fuel rates but it did change the density of the air. This is where the nice part of the elctronics came in for performance and the VP44 was the first of its kind. Where the ECM could detect all these variables and adjust timing and other parameters to meet the road and weather conditons over the old school mechanical system that was fixed to 1 setting mostly.

I might think about blowing out all the lines and making sure there is no moisture caught up in the lines... then you might check the gear lube in the front diff to be sure its full and not got water in it... Being that temperature or freezing has a effect on it function...

The only way t oknow for sure is hook up a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or simular... Watch the IAT temps. If the temp falls below 100*F you'll start seeing a loss in MPG. But the IAT does affect the timing directly. High performance buffs love the colder the better because it will dump a heavier load of fuel in the cylinder for racing. But for the common Joe looking for MPG's numbers then the temps should stay above 100*F mark. As for drawing in the heated air... kind of funny there is little to no difference seen in switching from Stock air box to BHAF with a heat shield. reason being is the intercooler is doing its job of cooling the air back to outside temps. But what gives the gain is the heated coolant passage in the manifold. That is the boost port but just right out of site of this pic is a 1/2 pipe plug most love to pull but find out its a coolant passage. Yeap there is 190*F coolant being pumped under the manifold heating the air as it enter the cylinders. But typically the offset of temp at full coolant temp will be roughly +40*F over outside temps. So if its 60*F outside your IAT will be right at 100*F... now with winter fronts its about 50-60*F offset over outside temps. So at 0*F it will be about 60*F in the manifold. This is because there is very little cold air crossing the intercooler. So the whole idea of CAI is rather like shooting yourself in the foot... Being the real factor for the common Joe is how clean the intercooler is and if you got a winter front on at the time... On a personal note I've not seen a single product that can claim a reduction in IAT temps... Think about it...

Well i could do you the favor and move this over ot the 2nd forum to see if I can get you more exposure...