Mopar1973Man

Now if we roll back time to the 1989 to 1991 Dodge trucks I bet the CAI would do a world of good being there is no intercooler... So basically the stock filter was the best being the air was pulled from the front bumper. But now the turbo charger warmed it up, then the manifold, etc... But since the 1989 to 1991 model years had mechanical pumps it didn't change the timing or fuel rates but it did change the density of the air. This is where the nice part of the elctronics came in for performance and the VP44 was the first of its kind. Where the ECM could detect all these variables and adjust timing and other parameters to meet the road and weather conditons over the old school mechanical system that was fixed to 1 setting mostly.

I might think about blowing out all the lines and making sure there is no moisture caught up in the lines... then you might check the gear lube in the front diff to be sure its full and not got water in it... Being that temperature or freezing has a effect on it function...

The only way t oknow for sure is hook up a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or simular... Watch the IAT temps. If the temp falls below 100*F you'll start seeing a loss in MPG. But the IAT does affect the timing directly. High performance buffs love the colder the better because it will dump a heavier load of fuel in the cylinder for racing. But for the common Joe looking for MPG's numbers then the temps should stay above 100*F mark. As for drawing in the heated air... kind of funny there is little to no difference seen in switching from Stock air box to BHAF with a heat shield. reason being is the intercooler is doing its job of cooling the air back to outside temps. But what gives the gain is the heated coolant passage in the manifold. That is the boost port but just right out of site of this pic is a 1/2 pipe plug most love to pull but find out its a coolant passage. Yeap there is 190*F coolant being pumped under the manifold heating the air as it enter the cylinders. But typically the offset of temp at full coolant temp will be roughly +40*F over outside temps. So if its 60*F outside your IAT will be right at 100*F... now with winter fronts its about 50-60*F offset over outside temps. So at 0*F it will be about 60*F in the manifold. This is because there is very little cold air crossing the intercooler. So the whole idea of CAI is rather like shooting yourself in the foot... Being the real factor for the common Joe is how clean the intercooler is and if you got a winter front on at the time... On a personal note I've not seen a single product that can claim a reduction in IAT temps... Think about it...

Well i could do you the favor and move this over ot the 2nd forum to see if I can get you more exposure...

I've noticed that too... But the funny part is most all service manual like AllData, Mitchell1, Dodge FSM seem to be short on information as they went forward in time from 2003... Strange but true... But still in all performance wise wouldn't it be still good to have positive pressure to the CP3? I know there is a overflow valve on the CP3 and there is a little information on it but not enough to know anything about specs... But wouldn't it be wise to setup you fuel system simuliar to the VP44 to be able to bare crack open the overflow vavle and have good fuel flow? (Now I'm on the learning curve...)

There is a slight difference between our 2 runs... Mine was done with Vulcan Big Line kit and a Carter Campaign Pump and yours with be a FASS DDRP and Big Line Kit so I'm really curious if the FASS DDRP can reclaim its title some how with a few mods... :shrug:But stlill in all the common thing is still the DRRP is short in GPH rate, short in warranty, and long in price... So I knowi ts not exactly the best pick for a pump but there is a lot of them out there and maybe, just maybe you'll find the magic to make them work... Who knows... That's why I never will stop a person from trying something again even if its known for issues. Because maybe you'll see something that now one else didn't... (Prayin' for ya!)

Yeah I caught that that's why I went back and added that he should check the turbo and air ducting... I figures might as well double check everything since K&N has a bad history of dusting and collecting oil in the air system... I rather be safe than sorry...

Other than that it looks like you covering the bases properly. Take your time and do your research on your part and mods...

Actually that's wrong too... (I hate to say it) I found several service manuals (Dodge FSM, AllData, Mitchell1) stating the CP3 minimum pressure is 9.5 PSI... You might want to look it up...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-system/fuel-system.htm

Well that's why I've not said a whole lot in this thread... I know you trying to learn from your experience and show the member your results of the testing. This is good. Yes I could of step in and feed you my results to my testing way back then... But why??? So if you willing to explore and test I'm not going to stop you. You just might find something I didn't...

Glad it was a cheap fix for ya!

Great glad to see it working for ya...

Best suggestion... Just replace that line quick with 1/2" and a tapped elbow... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm

You guys got to check this out... Below article is from... http://www.dieselbombers.com/alternative-fuels-additives-fluids/953-2-stroke-oil-thread-13.html#post482310 After calling back the military testing facility in Manching, bavaria I got some interesting news. -It doesn't matter what kind of Diesel engine 2-stroke oil is added. It is designed as an lubrication and cleaning aid. It burns itself cleaner than Diesel. -recommended mixture is 1:200 down to 1:250. A higher mixture will devlop blue smoke again. - Use of 2-stroke oil is demanded, when not knowing the source of Diesel or assuming impurities or dilluted Diesel. This is what every 2 stroke oil manufacturer claims: Think about it! - Outstanding wear protection Extended life for critical engine parts - Enhanced frictional properties Improved fuel economy - Excellent thermal and oxidation stability Exceptional engine cleaning power resulting in extended valve life, reduced ring sticking, piston tightening and elimination of pre-ignition problems - Excellent corrosion protection properties Longest engine life - Eliminates pre-ignition Maximises fuel efficiency and extends piston life - Smoke-free exhaust Cleaner environment Why should a mixture of 1:50 in a gasoline engine be worse than a mixture of 1:200 in a Diesel just beeing needed as a lubing aid? Being at the official demanded saftey inspection caused the safety officer to shook his head and to run the test twice. Emissions are 57% better than the last time. The ten year old engine is now as good as a modern engine equipped with a DPF. This shows again that 2-stroke oil is so bad for the engine...

Best idea... You paid good money for it...

Hmmm... How about a brake caliper binding up? I've seen this drop MPG over night but not given the smell of hot brakes... When was the last time you full disassembled the brake calipers and clean and lube the parts (slide pins and such)?

Sounds like starter contacts? Or starter relay in the PDC? Or the Starter relay fuse in PDC? Fuse D or Starter relay http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213 Gasser version of starter contact but the cummins is close to the same... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/693-Starter-contacts

Yeah something isn't right the steering wheel should hold in one position it should re-center after a turn. http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Currently doing exactly that... I've got my stock fuel filter still hooked up and the filter in it... It for the gelling problem more so for me... But as for water problems I've never had any yet...

Ok.. 2 Cents to toss... :2cents:Now as for the pipe/hose ID will detrimine max volume rate of the fuel pump at set pressure. Like in real world example since I worked for a fire dept for 6 yeears it the best way to explain it. Now for the sake of the example the water pressure is going to be set at 80 PSI and equal pressure always. Now take you normal every day 1/2" ID garden hose and fight a house fire... I bet money your going to lose the house. But now some shows up and replaces you hose with a 1 1/2" hose still at 80 PSI and now he's got a fighting chance to save part of the house (more GPM). Now the crew shows up and you switch out for 2 1/2" hose and a partner to help you hold the line. Now the fire it going to be put out...Something with the Cummins fuel system. You got a pump that can put out 15 PSI but the lines are so small the demand exceeds the pump (stock pump and lines) usually shows up as large pressure drop. Now upgrade to 1/2" lines and good strong pump (even stock carter) and now only lose a few PSI from idle to WOT. This is because the pump and plumbing can keep up with the demand. But now change to RV275 and Edge Comp on 5x5 now that stock cater can keep up... so now a 100 ro 150 GPH pump is needed...But for rule of thumb Speed / MPG = GPH so if your traveling 55 MPH divide by 20 MPG should equal 2.75 GPH This is your engine demand rate.. WOT is a whole another ball game the most I see measured is rate around 20-30 GPH

I had another member come up with mechanic high idle that is switch operated... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle2.htm As for a throttle knobs (PTO throttles) you can get those from a Dodge dealer...

Too lazy to do the conversion for it... But thank for confirming...

I had a local machinist measure mine at 6mm ID...

Like I found out high idle alone does do a whole lot for heat... Read the addition info on the bottom of the page on the link above...

AD 100 is the easiest to install yes you can use the stock pickup tube... But if there is any air problems check the quick connector at the stock pickup. AD 150 is a bit tougher being you got to drop the fuel tank to install the drawstraw but final product will handle more load longer... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm