Mopar1973Man

Just get it dried out is the big step...I'll check around and see what I can find...

Ok... How about that??? ;)

The filter minder is a sealed unit and doesn't flow any air. :confused: Pre-filter is also a good idea but you need to make sure you rig a stand for your filter so it don't rub holes in it...

That's the Cluster testing as show here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/cluster-test/cluster.htm But your is going to be different for the 3rd gen... But the codes are listed in the Dodge FSM if any were displayed...

Interresting to say... It got a torsion bar suspension... :confused:

On the flat... Stock 265/75 R16 Tires (Cooper STT) 65 MPH - 700-800*F Pyro - 5-8 PSI boost (16-17 MPG) 55 MPH - 550-600*F Pyro - 3-5 PSI Boost (19-20 MPG) Narrow tire 235/85 R16 (Big O AT) 65 MPH - 600-700*F Pyro - 4-6 PSI boost (18-19 MPG) 55 MPH - 450-550*F Pyro - 1.5-3 PSI Boost (20-22 MPG) Size compare... But that my problem there turely isn't any flat ground in Idaho. So I'm either going up or down a hill somewhere. Like running to town (Riggins, ID) is a 1,000 ft fall in 15 miles. Then if I go to McCall its basically 35 miles away and climb 2,400 feet. Then main grade is set at 45 MPH and its a windy SOB. So my daily travel MPG is typically lower 17-19 MPG range. But once I get out of the valley and go long like to Lewiston, ID (150 miles) or Boise ID (180 miles) now I'm kicking up the MPG back into the 21-23 MPG bracket. But since the economy is shot and money is thin I don't get out the valley much. So I've had to re-tune my driving habit to gain for my local by shaving 10 MPH off post speeds here. (65 MPH posted limit on US95) This puts me back to 20-21 MPG. But now I got to carry my ATV with me for a few jobs because just running up a dirt road (16% to 20%) for 5-7 miles will kill the MPG's quick as hell. So it cheaper to unload the ATV and ride it to the jobs or friends places. If the weather ever warms and dries up I ride my GoldWing...

Hmmm... 6BT would fit under the hood without a problem but the front suspension won't hold it up...Magnum XE were only made for 2 years. It was basically a Dodge Cordoba with some fancy enhancements. This car has...318 CID V8 engineOrignally had a 4 barrel carb (Electronic lean burn) converted to 2 barrel holley 2210.Electronic lean burn was converted back to the old school electronic ignition.Automatic trans 904The rest of it completely stock for the most part...

Comments in blue

That is really neat! It nice to see where we came from in basic function to the the today's modern engine. ;)

LOL Don't sweat it...I've got a old Dodge magnum XE that been sitting over 10 year with better than a half tank of fuel and it fired up without a problem and I never treated the fuel with any kind of stabilizer. The most you might find out you got to do is take the carb off and clean it up and you good to go. If the tank has room I would drop in a tank of high octane fuel over the top ot boost it back up.

Here you go...

Boy that's a killer write up for doing the setup on the timing! :thumbsup :smart

Ah as for the lugging point its roughlt anything lower than 1500 RPM's... That when I see the sudden rise of EGT and boost. Other than that right around 1,500 is the lowest RPM I can climb most highway grades. I've got one hill mark for 45 MPH and requires 4th gear to climb because the RPM range is just way too low. Now like for example white bird grade in whitebird, Idaho its 7% grade that is 7 miles long. I've tested running it at 55, 60 and 65 MPH off course running it at 55 MPH gain me about 2-3 MPG over running it at 65 MPH (6-8 MPG total running grade). Now lets say I've got 21-22 MPG before I start the grade at 65 MPH going over the 7 mile grade I can pull the MPG from 21-22 down to 15-16 by the top! But if I was to slow down to 55 MPH I can hold 17-18 MPG at the top.

Here is the template for the BHAF. Just print it out and tape it together.

Just keep an eye on that pressure and don't let it fall below 10 PSI much... 8|

I was just thinking that too... I don't think the FASS DDRP is going to handle that... :poke

Hmmm... Vacuum leak under the dash, bad vacuum motor that is leaking or a bad vacuum selector fot the vent controller??? :confused:

Basically doing rough math...Stock 235 HPEdge Comp +120 ------------------355 HP @ the flywheel.Injectors +75 -----------------430 HP @ the flywheel.So roughly ~430 HP at the flywheel. But with you oversized tires your going to loss quite a bit of both HP (to the ground) and MPG's. But if you ditch the 305 tire and get down to a 285 or even 265 tire you would gain back a lot of both HP and MPG's. A a matter of fact I'm down to 235/85 R16 and now starting to see 23-24 MPG on the top side now... My typical daily running I'm gettitng 20-21 MPG. You'll be surprised how much a larger tire robs you of MPG's! :wow

I aim to please... :D :thumbsup

Yeah that the rheostat part how about the the 2 idle validation switches??? Pins 6, 2, 1... On the stock side of the adapter? Idle switch control several different functions... (Exhaust brake, Idle functions, high idle, etc)

APPS sensor? :confused: Is the APPS sensor idle validation switch functional? :confused:

Even though its a electric sender its going to get beat up from the pulses of the VP44 and lift pump this why I suggest putting a needle valve or a snubber on even electric gauges. But since the problem came after the back lighting I would back up and disconnect it and see if the problem still there. Basically double check your wiring... Grounds are really important!

I've seen this so many times in my life and it really blows my mind what people are thinking or not doing to keep there truck going.(Shaking my hand...)My friend thing I'm nuts anyways I got my hood open more times out of ten and crawling around my truck. But the funny part is that I've never had a serious failure that required a tow truck yet with my Cummins. Don't get me wrong I've had my share of failures but I stay on top of it once the problems start it got fixed instantly. About 18 years ago I was on my way to a David Copperfield show in Boise, ID with my family. I was driving my 1973 Charger SE. We stopped in Horseshoe Bend, ID for fuel and I popped the hood and checked my oil like usual and notice the weep hole on the water pump was weeping. I told my parents I'm going to have to stop in Boise, ID to get some coolant and limp home. Well we never made to the top of the grade (BOMB! Rattle Scrap!) The water pump gave up and threw the fan into the radiator... 8| Limp over the top and coasted to the bottom to a phone... tow truck time... ` This taught me a lesson for sure. So now I do regular inspections of all my vehicles even the Goldwing, Honda Rancher ATV, both trucks, and even my fire trucks!

Hmmm... Slipped timing chain is typical for lack of power. There is a TSB for you Dakota... (Attachment File)Here is the documents for doing the chain... (Attachment file)

Ok... Did you use a isolator, snubber or a needle valve? (Need one of the listed for either electric or mechanical gauge).As for the pump you wired on a switch? This not a good idea there is several that have done this too and you'll; tend to forget to turn on the pump when your in a hurry. Also starting proessure might be to high and cause starting troubles.