Mopar1973Man

Only shows when you hold the trip pin down, then turn the key on, then the odometer will say "Chec" when you release the lcuster does its test then completes. In the odometer display these 3 digit codes will be displayed. If none display the cluster is good. So again this points me at the PCM and ECM. Oh yeah the CCD bus on the stereo is a 2 pin plug. Same pair of wires as the ODBII plug. This was used for steering wheel control and so the digital signal could be recv'ed for volume up and down and tuner up and down on the steering wheel. If these 2 wires and shorting out because some one cut them up or hooked them to something could pull the CCD network down. (Errors).

Again Cluster codes (after the test completes) will only be 3 digit codes between 900 and 999... Not p codes.

Like a common issue is wrong final ratio to the ground. Really common for everyone to go for the "Cool Look" with bigger tires and lift kits. Right off the bat this destroys the final ratio and makes the truck work harder to get up to speed and generate more smoke because of virtual loading of the rolling resistance. Optimal final ratio is between 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after tires. Remember 3.55 gears with any size bigger than 265's will be dropping that final ratio. 245's tires will nearly bring you to 3.73 final. With the Quadzilla you can tune out a bunch of the smoke between the timing and fuel maps. As I've posted I'm maxed out at 28 MPG. I'm somewhere around 500 HP to the rear tires. Personally, I don't need twins for my setup even with last years trip to Arizona hauling my RV. Never had a EGTs issue at all. But again, I've got proper final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1 with the 245's tires. No EGT's issues here. If you lower ratio than 3.55 you will have EGT's issues. The other trick... You need to have a stock fuel zone. Like I'm running just 100% fuel on the CANBus table from 5 PSI to 15 PSI. Just stock power from the ECM and the 150 HP injectors. This keeps the EGT's down while flat driving. Now put it against a hill it will pull up into the 15 to 30 PSI part of the table and start to ramp up. Now if I was going all out and had wire tap on too then the wire tap is set to start at 15 PSI and ramp up with the CANBus together. Way better power and better Efficiency (MPG).

Regardless of who made the studs. The fact is head studs are harden studs and will not stretch at all they will break first. That why like my last head gasket failure for sure was gasket failure being the material de-laminated from the base metal gasket. I'm just finishing up doing a head gasket on a 1994 Dodge 12V Cummins with +150 HP injectors.

Cluster codes are not p codes... Then the codes range from 900 to 999.. Only 3 digits. So if there is no 900 to 999 codes then I'm stay in on the CCD network being the issue. You got to figure out what is messing with the line voltage if nothing can be found you might have to send the ECM and PCM for testing.

Did you test the cluster? Hold the trip pin down and turn the key on. It should say Chek then release. The test will running at the end report error codes in the odometer.

If I remember right it's 137 liters to fill our trucks.

No. Tricks or short cuts. Just filled with fuel, drove the distance and filled again. I need to restock on 2 cycle oil again. I really think the 3.69:1 final ratio helps a bunch just like what I did on Thor getting back to 3.73 final ratio. Both trucks run right at ~2,000 RPM at 65 MPH. Way less energy to keep moving, easier on the engine being in the torque curve and not too low in RPM.

"The Beast" Broke The High Mark 28.04 MPG On The Quadzilla! Notify - @Quadzilla Power Yup! The old high mark was 27.2 MPG with +75 HP injectors (Vulcan Performance) and Edge Comp. Now I did it with a Quadzilla, +150 HP DAP Injectors, HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo. Netting 28.04 MPG hand math, fill to fill! So I filled up in Riggins, ID and then drove to Donnelly, ID to get my paycheck for my last 2 weeks of work. Now returned home which included sitting in construction in McCall for about 15 minutes idling with A/C running. Next morning I got up and drove to Lewiston Idaho. When I got to Lewsiton, ID I was shocked to look down at just below 7/8 of tank and 236 miles. After I was done shopping I racked up 263 miles and I filled up again at 3.509 a gallon which is cheap compared to 4.209 up here at home. With fuel at $4 plus a gallon at home this truck is going to be my eco-friendly diesel truck. All I did was drive normally light acceleration, CANBus fuel only no wire tap used, and set the cruise for speed limit. Nothing fancy. Fuel gauge when I hit Lewiston, ID Then the Trip in miles and my odometer is on the mark... It is calibrated for my 245's tires. Then the data in my fuel log...

Cruise control, exhaust brake (optional), HVAC controls. Keep in mind the later 2nd Gens are fly by wire for cruise control on a manual.

Give me a little bit longer I'll have the database tested and setup for everyone to fill in vendors and give reviews for others.

I've been getting some work done on the vendor listing. I'm building the database frame that gives structure to the database. I'm trying to include all the methods of contacting a vendor or getting products from a vendor. Then also include a comment area so you can give honest reviews of vendor performance and products.

That tin foil between the VP44 and the block will do nothing. What does do something to keep fuel temp down is NOT pumping fuel from the sender basket. That is the hottest fuel and will soak the VP44 with even more heat. I pump fuel from the tank directly and return to the basket the fuel temps are roughly 20 to 25 degrees cooler this way. Even hauling my RV all the way to Arizona I never got over 140*F.

They could be... I've done several truck where your just changing injectors and having problems getting started because of weak starter, bad starter cables (positive or negative), bad starter brushes, bad starter solenoid contacts, etc. Speed is key to re-priming the system with the starter alone. Yes I'll admit I've had to dust the mouth of the turbo with a bit of starting fluid to get the truck started. Must of been another member I just read about compression being low so that is my mistake...

Failing sensor would of tossed a error code for sure if it out of range. ECT if the sensor is unplugged then the volts go high and gauge pegs out 240F. If its shorted to ground it will drop to -40*F. The only way to have number in the middle random if of the sensor failed IN SPEC. In other words showing random data all over the map but never going out of range. This could also be a bad ECM and/or Quadzilla.

I'm not on the overloads yet. Again I'll get it scale here some day and find out.

I've several guys around me with twins on the 24v Cummins. It just rather foolish for the ones I've seen. Like I know of one truck with RV275 Injectors with twins. Then there is a second truck like mine with 150 HP injectors and twins again. I still have lower EGT's at cruise either towing or empty. Neither of these have a Quadzilla those two truck are running Edge Juice. There is no timing adjustment... I typically cruise at 550*F EGT's at 65 MPH. I would consider twins if my truck was towing more often and long haul going cross country.

I would talk to the coating company and be sure it can with stand temperatures above 1,200*F and for long term. Not that you would drive that hard but make sure it can withstand way more temperature for long periods of time.

Well I can give this much my last fill up I netted 17.58 MPG on my 2002 Dodge (The Beast). I've got the +150 Injectors but running a Quadzilla tuner. The key here is getting the optimal timing for you use. Like myself since I'm running 245's for tires my RPMs are up and the cruise for 65 MPH is right close to 2k RPMs. Now the next trick is to find the best cruise timing for your application. Good starting point would be 19 degrees at 2k RPMs. But this truck sits mostly and doesn't get driven but on the weekends. This last tank included hauling firewood out of the national forest. This is out side the 24V realm but... Just the changing of the 18 inch wheels off my 2006 Dodge and going back to stock steel wheels with 265/70 R17 tires gave nearly a full 4 MPG. Don't forget about rolling resistance and rotational mass. In this case dropping the extra mass and getting the final gearing close to 3.73 is very optimal for all Cummins.

You don't have too... If you have the valve spring compressor. What you do is run 1 and 6 up to TDC since they are running mates. Now the piston at TDC. You can compress the spring pull the clips out and change the valve seals on 1 and 6 without pulling the head. Then you run 2 and 5 up to TDC and repeat. Then 3 and 4 and repeat. The valves will sit on the top of the piston and not fall out. I've got the tool in my tool box and never got to use it yet.

I'll make you think a second I've never had to rebuild my own hydrobooster yet. 432k miles and still going. The biggest thing is keeping the power steering fluid changed every 30k miles. If you keep up on the fluid changes then you'll never have to rebuild the hydrobooster.

I remember back a few years I did a intake gasket replacement. I tried for quite awhile to get it to fire up and it was pumping fuel out of 1, 3, and 4. No dice on starting. I disconnected the grid heater at the battery and gave it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up. They are right if the starter is tired and not cranking fast enough it will struggle to fire up with air in the lines.

Let me dig my old Edge Comp out I've still got mine in the shop somewhere and I'll dig it up and give you pins and wire colors and going to what. Mine is a 2002 edition of the Edge Comp so it might vary a bit.

Here is the local global warming... So smokey that you can't see the mountain range towards home. Home is 20 miles ot the north of this picture and north is in the direction I shot the photo.

I need to hit the scales now with all the tools. I remember just the truck and flat bed was 10,200 pounds but that was years ago. I don't think so on the springs. I'll check when I get home.