Mopar1973Man

@W-T all FSMs are in the download area. You are correct if the fuse is blowing instantly there is wire shorted to ground. @Turbo Terry check the 99 wire map.

Check locally for a shop that rebuilds leaf springs. There is a solution either have shop rework the springs or just replace the springs. Like I know in Boise there is a shop that will do this.

Nice!!!

You might try buying hone brush and clean the hole out at bit removing the grit and rust and it might fit better. Like @Dieselfuture suggest double check the size and application.

Yup. Keyed 12V to distributor. The module hooks to the inside plug. Then IIRC there is BATT terminal for keyed power. Then there is tach terminal if you want to hook a tachometer.

Make sure you have the same year and options there was changes like crank and cam sensors or just cam sensor. The MAP sensor plugs are different.

Make sure the two rear cables move together. What I do is loosen the slack adjuster on the side of the frame. Then set both rear shoe adjustment where it barely drags. Then set the slack again so I pulls enough to hold evenly.

Sorry that happened to anyone... Glad your doing better. As for the brake it's time to rebuilding the parking brake. I know I need to consider replacing the middle cable soon getting stretched out.

Well first thing I would do is peek at the wiring diagrams in the article section. Now I would ohm test between end to end. If a wire is shorted to ground it will show zero ohm between the body and a open wire. Might have to pull the pan and test the internal wiring inside the transmission.

Got home last night and got a phone call. It was on of the local member in Council ID. (Josh) @01WorkBody. He's got a a 2000 Dodge Cummins 2500 with utility bed. He had several questions about performance. Eventually I did a road test. He's got 35 inch tires on 4.10 gears. Engine wise with +50 HP injectors with a larger turbo and no tuner. We talked about adding the Quadzilla to help control smoke and EGTs. Transmission wise He's got a stock 47RE which he wants to change to a G56 trans. Even for the 2 hour standing outside in the parking lot of Subway we had a good time. Josh has no problem turning wrench being the utility box has everything to tear down a full truck. I parted ways leaving him a list of things to do.

As long as there is no OBDII error codes and low smoke it will pass. Cam can't be detected by any smog shop.

Personally I've never used any sealant product for coolant system in the Cummins. I done it once in my 1996 Dodge and it made quite the mess out of the cooling system. I got it flushed out and replaced the intake manifold gasket the was bleeding out over the front of the engine. Changing the gasket did way better than adding the stop leak which only bought time and eventually start to weep again later on. NOTE: Old mechanic trick back in the day for junkers was to mix a can of condensed milk and pepper together. Not something I would even suggest but in a pinch it would work just like any stop leak product. Just more fun to flush that stuff out later.

This truck had a "Bully Dog" again another tuner that is just a rail pressure adder. Doesn't flash the ECM for core values. Like Quadzilla is all 2D layout for the most part but when you get to common rail its all 3D graphs. Then this data is flashed back to the ECM. most of these hijacks the CANBus signal throws a "priority command" then injects the new value to the bus and the VP44 takes it. The other thing I'll need to setup Virtualbox and get my copy of Windows back out. The only two common tuners that do flash the ECM is... Smarty Touch EFI Live Both of these tuners have full tables of timing, fuel, boost, etc... Example.

No. Quadzilla is not a solution being its just a rail pressure box. On common rails you need to flash the ECM with all the core values. Even Jacob Kidd suggested other solutions for Common Rails. Correct. Smarty after working with them this is not a solution either knowing how the whole thing works. I really don't want to deal with Smarty for a tuner. I know what they have for support and not what I want to deal with either. I know way too many secrets of that group. Not one I would like to visit again.

Now I've gotta ask about tuners for the 3rd Gen. I've worked with Smarty for nearly 3 years. I've played with self contained EFI Live tuners (not the full package). Then another friend mention ed another tuner like HP? He was sure of the name at the time but I figured I'd ask.

I don't think the studs was my problem. Between high timing on the Quad and possibly high exhaust back pressure done the damage for me. I'm already got the head shipped off and need to order a new head gasket from DAP. When I fire back up I will disconnect the wire tap till I can source out a bigger turbo and a new exhaust brake as well. Being my current exhaust brake limits my turbo choices. Do a in pipe PacBrake will open up options for a bigger exhaust housing and bigger turbine and compressor wheels. Trust me, I have learned from mistakes.

Well my first relaxed trip to Caldwell ID. I know the odometer is off and speedometer is off by about -3 to what is actual speed. Now that being said I know its 125 miles from home to Ontario. Now I filled in Riggins ID that's adds on another 15 miles. From Riggins to Ontario showed 123 miles. The odometer is slow too. All from the 285 tires. All that said I've hit 21.0 MPG which would actually be higher if the odometer wasn't slow. The other thing I'm pretty sure this truck is 3.73 gears which with the 285s I'm running the RPMs are roughly the same as my 2002 with 3.55 gears and 245s tires. This combo seems to be great for towing weight.

Might be change in brakes. 1989 to 2001.5 is all drum brakes. After 2001.5 and up is disc brakes.

Vehicle Nickname: Thor - 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 Date Added To The Garage: 2021-07-09 Garage Link: Thor - 2006 Dodge Ram 3500

Leave the joke out this... Yeah that is funny to read... what was I thinking... Seriously the amount of vacuum you need to pull the filter minder is very very little.

Same here. Never heard of them. I put my money on the 425 ARP studs. Even though I blew my head gasket a second time.

Should of already done the W-T ground wire mod and PCM protection fuse.

@IBMobilejust being a ... I always love that blink fluid joke... Even sold on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Blinker-Fluid-HAND-VERSION-Hilarious-Gift-Stocking-Stuffer-Car/dp/B06ZXSKDZG

Hey gang... Just a general tech tip. If your coolant has been in your truck for 3 years or about 75k miles you should consider doing a coolant flush and new thermostat. Then you might check your A/C pressures and top off the freon. Double check all your fluids axles, transmission and transfer case (if applicable). Brake fluid is another that needs to be changed every 30k miles as so does power steering fluid.

Crap! Sorry for that I already had the Timbos APPS show up a while back but forgot to update the stock number. Again sorry gang...