Mopar1973Man

All are low. Normally these engines are 400 to 450 PSI. The rings are wasted and the bores most likely need to be sleeved.

Too big for me... I really don't like being in Boise at all. Reminds me of Los Angeles CA when I left back in 1990. Los Angeles was back back in the 1990. Boise was still behind by about 15 years now it caught up and has all the same problems why I left Los Angeles. I like smaller town and quiet communities.

Looks good. The design I see you tweaked it a bit for the front two elbows I like the way it turned out.

I appreciate the offer but I'm good I'm going for huge power yet till I fix a bunch of rattles and wobbles I've got yet. Adding power now would be a mistake. Gotta finish up the removal of the leveling kits, get the nose back down, get the thrust angle corrected, etc. I'm just happy to see a noted INCREASE in MPG hand math since I got the stock tires back on.

Bad valve guides and seals. Once a valve guide wears it usually start rocking the valve stem a bit which tears up the valve seals.

ECM, PCM and VP44 all get there ground from he passenger side battery (directly). This what the W-T ground wire mod changes.

If you look at the design it has a ratchet design to self adjust during install. If you carefully pull the plunger back out you can re-install it again. Yes I've actually figure it out and been able to re-install two switch before.

The upgraded case they had to add quite a bit of metal around the hole. The old case was a suppose to prevent that but with vibration it eats the aluminum case and then continues to walk through. Hence why the case was redesign with even smaller hole to prevent walking out.

Typically its shaft bearing as you apply load the shaft moves and the kicks the transfer case out of gear. Most common for bearings to get sloppy and the shaft moves.

#1 Diesel would be better than mix #2 diesel. #1 diesel is winter diesel that already has anti-gel more or less. The PPD (Pour Point Depressant) is added and the fuel is distilled with more cetane. Blended #2 is more or less starting with #2 summer diesel and blend in the #1 to give winter time bonus. But pure #1 diesel would be way better. Up here in Idaho we only have blended #2 winter diesel. It still can travel to -40*F without any problem. Only 2 cycle oil and no anti-gels or cetane booster.

On the 2002 dodge 60 all the way around will cover 8,800 pounds. I do all my tire pressures by axle weight. For example the front axle weights 4,440 pounds. My tires have a 3,042 pound capacity at 80 PSI. Total vehicle weight (4,440 + 2,860) = 7,300 pounds on the scale total. Front tires - (4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI Rear axle is 2,860 pounds. Rear tires - (2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI

Very rare to head toward Ontario, OR. or Boise, ID It's been months since I've been down there other than pick up the wheels. I do most of my travels to Lewiston ID now. But very limited on tires shops. After 5 years of back and forth to Ontario it does bring back old memories sometimes. Hence why a tend to go north and make my own memories now. Even in Lewiston when I checked no 18's in stock all have to be ordered. No take offs either. Kind of like my trip home I crossed the construction site at Cambridge ID and remembered how much @MoparMom hated that bridge I even said, " Hey look Mom finally getting to fixing your bridge you hated so bad!", it had a bad bump! RIP - Rosalie Krivda (Mom).

No joke. Truck does really good around McCall with speeds choked down to 45 to 50 MPH. Makes big gains in MPG's. Even show better now the speedometer is correct now. The biggest problem up here NO ONE has 18's in stock. Not even take offs. I check several tires shops around me and nope nothing in stock all has to ordered in. 17's are more common up here than 18's. 16's are super common yet easy to get too and about another $400 less than the 17's. I can buy four 245/75 R16 for $600 here (just 2 years ago). Just paid $1000 for 17's. Remember I'm not in the city where you have selection and price competition.

New rubber done already. I'm much happy with the lower ratio nearly the same as the 2002 Dodge. Just a touch higher RPM about +100 more at 65 MPH compared to 2002. Every where I went trying to get 18's for the old wheels was about 600 to 800 dollars higher. Now just doing stock 17's I can do for just a mere $1,000.

It's wore off the corner smooth. Its not broke off. This is cause from all the canyon driving on the old 31 inch tires. 235's or 265's I had to downshift a lot. Now with the 245's I don't have to downshift to 4th other to pass people now.

I wish I've used up most of my fender washers.

Heck I just drop into the local hardware store and grab a fender washer and then using a grinder and grind it into a tear drop shape and then bolting it down. Super cheap.

The tip on the shift is just about as wide as the gap between the outer shift forks. Making it wider might grab two forks together. I just have that one spot dowshifting on 4th that I can wedge that tip between because of the rounded fork on the left. All other shifts are fine.

My biggest thing is finding a way to keep the cherry from dropping back in the transmission. I was thinking like stuff wet rags around the area so to block the cherries from dropping in the transmission as much.

Not sounding to easy. Keep the ideas coming. I'm trying to avoid pulling the transmission. I know it I pull it I could pull the cover and change that one shift fork.

Back to stock size. 265/70 R17 on 2010 Mopar factory steel wheels. Thor has new shoes to run the pavement and back roads! I've got a few studs to replace and I need to order up a set of stock lug nuts. Then I can put the center caps on as well. I did find a eBay seller that had factory 1/2 x 20 bulge lug nuts full set of 32 lugs for mere $20 dollars. Now to ditch that stupid 2 inch leveling kit next. The front is higher than the rear. Being all the steel tools in back is squatting During the install I had 4 lugs that absolutely ruined the studs and then broke one on the driver side rear. .

The Beast NV4500 has a issue with getting stuck in 4th gear. Now I know @dripley mention his shift issue for his NV5600 where the steel tip was worn out and had to replace the shift tower. Now for the NV4500 I've been hanging up with 4th gear if I shift too aggressive from 5th to 4th. If I do hang the shifter up I've got to pull the shift tower up to free it and then shift all forks back to neutral. Then reinstall. When I heard about Dripley and his issue I only looked at the shift tip for the NV4500 and didn't see why. Well my trip back from Parma with the wheels I got stuck in 4th gear again about 8 miles from home. Yesterday morning I got up and tore it down again to reset the stick and looked carefully at everything and finally found the issue. Now look on the left fork which is 5th and reverse. Now the center rod moving up is 4th gear. You can see it would be super easy to cram the shifter tip between that rounded off corner and the 4th gear fork. All those years of driving back and forth to Ontario, OR. 432k miles currently. Take notice to the wore off corner this always the shifter to sneak between the fork and jam up. I know that fork head is cast iron. I was thinking if I can find a good local welder and put a bit of metal back on that corner then file it back to make it square again. Anyone think this is possible?

Just like me out here in Idaho. Wonderful view.

It will error out in one way or another. There is software limitations between the ECM and VP44. Quadzilla mention back that we might be able to squeeze 32 degrees but that it. Kind of like trying to extend the fueling you can't because it only fuels to 4095 Decimal (0FFF Hex signed). Truthfully I though a while back if someone could produce a ECM that had the limits removed. Like MAP pressure is limited to 20 PSI. Fueling is limited to 4095, timing again is going ot have a limit. This why all performance box use the priority message to over ride the current data with new data to extend the power. Then beyond that the wire tap will extend 1,200us to 2,200us worth of pulse behind the CanBus signal. If the ECM and PSG were unrestricted you get more. I will mention I've worked with another member and found a way to make a bigger and badder VP44 pump. I cant remember the cc amounts but it could power 1,000 HP on fuel only easy. It has a requirement of better than 250 HP injectors to keep the pump from choking. No matter what there will be a limitation (software, ECM, etc.) that will prevent you from gaining to much more out of the VP44 pump and ECM.

Well... All I can say is rebuild time. If its got that much blow by then the engine should be rebuilt. Either the engine was dusted out by a washable filter or bad injectors washing out the rings. Could be head gasket blown to the push rod hole too. I've seen cracked heads pressurize either the fuel tank (cracked to the return rail) or the crankcase. Compression test would tell the story of whats going on.