Mopar1973Man

Reason why. When I pulled the studs out the long studs on the outside of the valve cover has some rust started and I had to clean the holes out and clean the threads. I lubed the threads on the block end to retard rusting in the future. First install I did it dry and wishing now I didn't. The other thing I bought a 10oz bottle of ARP lube for install instead of the little tiny 1.5 blister pack. This way I could really put as much lube on everything as I wished.

Exactly... I've been there before worked for people I didn't get along with and the conditions were good but not great. I'm getting older and don't want the laying in the dirt and limited shop. Done plenty of that I'm not wanting to do it anymore.

If you Idaho like I am there is no bio-diesel available. Now if I travel 125 miles I can get B5 in Oregon at a much steeper price.

Let me get started and see what happens. I might not like the conditions or work who knows this is why I'm keeping an open mind. I've been hired by many people and some cases I don't like condition or time restrictions.

I left about 1/2 turn out but after torquing to 125 foot pounds I'm pretty sure they bottomed out. I lubed both ends...

My last week of clean up. Then I switch over. I've got toolboxes and tools on Thor even got new keys for the locks. Then having my 2002 running again is super nice.

Just remember the diaphragm is not rubber like early versions. The current version uses a steel disc.

Reassembly...

Taxes should be based on the kilowatts used and road miles driven personally. That way the kilowatts are paid for and the road taxes to maintain roads.

If the return was plugged I would figure it would apply the brakes being it can't release pressure. I still think spool valve being its not applying pressure to assist with braking. Maybe the pump but steering would be affected being heavy. Could be the inlet is plugged but I would figure steering again would be affect being its daisy chained to the steering.

Still ask who is paying for the power?

Only thing I can think of is the spool valve has an issue. You can get a Pirate Jack rebuild kit and rebuild the hydro booster. Then you can see what's going on.

Good point...

Just did a search you might verify the posted size against one of your old nuts. Ive found 12mm x 1.75 but no 12mm x 1.50... verify the size.

Any updates on this?

Might a well start now and take your time fixing it.

Don't feel bad I've been wait for time for getting my head, then waiting for the lube for head studs, then now wait for time ot put it back together. Trust me I get it.

All I can say he got them at a Fasten-all store. Standard 6 side flange nut same 12mm x 1.50 thread. When comparing the 6 side is much bigger clamping force.

Finally got the head home and head gasket. The only thing I forgot was my lube for the ARP 425 studs. Then last night had a chat with another forum member that showed me a much better nut for ARP studs. Much bigger flange on the nut and thicker body. Last night I got another friend Andrew to help me place the head back on the block. As soon as the ARP thread lube gets here I can start stuffing studs in. Truck has been sitting for long time and need to get it running again.

Russ the guy I was renting my shop from he had a 3 phase converter. His was more a redneck converter.

Yeah I had a close call and had my 2002 Dodge roll down the driveway and miss a customers truck and Jacobs truck on the other side. Same here shut down and lock in gear.

I wish I had a bigger shop.

Yeah I've never been over 140°F typically for fuel temp.

Yeah when I blew the gasket... No the studs...

Better than tossing everything in the back seat right? Wednesday, I'll be seeing a rain storm so that is my indoor job of putting my head back on.