Mopar1973Man

ECM is the one that supplies the APPS signal the PCM uses the APPS signal for transmission and cruise control.

That is due to the cruise timing is allowed after you engine load dropped below your set engine load percentage. Then your RPM drops below a runnable range and it starts to buck. I would like to call out @Quadzilla Power and see if there is a way of make lower RPM range setting so you can force the cruise timing to shut down below that set RPM. Yeah I got the same problem...

Smoother idle and operation.

This is why I would suggest hot wiring the VP44. If the ECM is the problem it will idle normal with the ECM disconnected. If its the VP44 then the problem will still be there.

If you have a live data tool plugged in and watching the engine load number and the engine RPM. NORMAL - you should have a engine load above 0% and engine RPM should hover close to 800 RPM (+/- 10). Example my truck idles at 7% dancing around at 795 to 805 RPM. FAILED INJECTORS - You engine load will be at zero. The engine is trying to defuel as much as it can but the injectors are popping so early now that engine RPM is rising. Anything greater than 820 RPM. Like a truck I looked at in Ontario, OR the RPM is ~850 RPM and the engine load is 0% never moves whiles idling.

Most likely Low PSI being the light load cruise is a degree number. Then light load cruise is based on engine load for trigger.

Yup. In the years I've been buying DAP injection pumps and installing in customers rigs, I've only got ONE pump that was bad out of the box. It had a instant P1689 code and if you touched the throttle it jumped to 1,500 RPM and that's it. Normally all VP44 pump have to make the grade on a Bosch 815 test stand to get the new PSG programmed and flashed it. Takes roughly 3 hours on the Bosch 815 test stand per pump. Asked DAP for RMA to get the replacement and BAM! after being installed its was back to normal again. This happened to me last summer a matter of fact I managed to punch the fan on the engine trying break loose the pump gear puller. So be careful too... Bad VP44 pump and split my finger open (pretty bad), and to be starting the COVID-19 pandemic locally...

Stock minimum is 293 bar with the high end at 327 bar. So it's not injectors now move to checking the VP44.

Hot wire the VP44 and see if there is change to idle performance. If the VP44 is bad it should stay the same if it changes its possible wiring or ECM.

Good Gawd talk about big snap ring tools...

Shouldn't have any effect hence why I think you need to look into the ECM.

That is one reason I like DAP injectors I can specify what I want and them built to my specs. Only had 1 set with issues that DAP gladly rebuilt them again and swapped to VCO from the SAC I had previously. Those were 7 x 0.0085 but popped at 305 bar. Those were just a touch smokey at the end of life which was about 80k miles. My 7 x 0.010 I had built to my specs 320 bar and never once had any issues with starting, smoke or anything. Still going...

Wait to start light is more of ECM issue. If the wait start light is being goofy then you might look into having that ECM tested by a rebuilder.

Always been fast even at +5° between bands, just looking for better efficiency. Been testing this for about 2 weeks now. By 3rd gear I can out right smoke the rear tires then bark the tires in 4th. Funnier yet I told @Wet Vette she could not drive with this power she told me to pull over and did a Chinese fire drill and she hopped in and roasted the tires in 3rd and even got them to spin again in 4th gear. Yeah it's fast and powerful.

I'm currently running +5.5 between bands on timing and no bucking in the upper bands. Also starting at 13° in the 1500 band. This gives me just enough room in the 3000 band for 29.5°. Again no issues as of yet.

Like up here docks are left in the lakes all winter just the lakes are drained down enough that the docks are out of the water. Payette Lake in McCall is still very frozen yet. Now along the river there is no real docks at all. Just beach your craft and tie to rock or tree. Some have sand anchors. Spring thaw some times we get nasty ice jams in the Salmon River causing flooding in a spot or two before it breaks free and flow to the next hang up.

Personally I went back to straight pipe. Yeah everyone tells me it's loud but sure helps to warn deer I'm coming. For me the quieter the vehicle the more risk to hitting deer. Same principal of why Harley riders straight pipe too. Nice part is it fairly quiet in the cab while cruising. As for clocking the turbo on my truck was super easy. Mounted the center section hooked up my exhaust brake to the back of the turbo. Then lined up the compressor housing and just squeezed the snap ring and put it back in place. Another way is to line everything up and then mark it with a Sharpie Marker and then remove and assemble on the bench and line it up to your marks. Then install... More than one way to skin a cat.

Yeah if your using a cheap reader typically they show the P1693 code. Like I'm using a Innova live data and scan tool. It doesn't display any P1693 codes. Just all the other codes. It might be that your tool only sees the PCM but skipping the ECM hence why you see the P1693 code and nothing reported from the ECM. Just remember the PCM is the master and ECM is the secondary computer. You need a quality tool that can read non-OBDII systems. Strange enough these trucks if you look up the PID (1C Hex) for OBDII compliance it will report back a Hexadecimal of 05 meaning it is not OBDII compliant. Strange but true...

Bucking is over advanced timing typically. You should be starting out at about 13° at 1,500 RPM. then maybe step up about +4° between bands is a good starting point for most.

No. P1693 is just a flag code stating the other module has errors. It does not include ABS or SRS code are separate.

Let me say it is not exact science. The problem is injector pop pressure, cetane of the fuel, gear ratio and tire sizes all play a role in what the tune is going to require. Like yourself with the larger turbo you going to most likely start at 13° steeping up about +4° to +5° and build out from there timing wise. You'll need fair amount of retard to get that turbo spooled. I found that having a flat spot in the fuel map is way nicer for daily driver leaving a span say from 5 to 10 or 15 PSI of boost just 100%. Then from that point ramp both wire tap and CANBus together for some serious power for passing. Too many like to start the wire tap at 5 PSI and always riding in the wire tap for normal driving. (Not really efficient). Like myself I'm popped at 320 bar so my injectors are late and require advancement just to be back in time. I don't know what you set the pop pressure too? I'm experimenting with +5.5° between spans on the timing. Tops me out at 29.5° at 3,000 RPM. My problem is I don't use much of the 2.5k and 3K bands except for passing. My travels rarely take me to interstate now that allow me to run 82 MPH at 2,500 RPM. Not exact science, but the engine gives clues to what it likes and don't. If temperatures and/or engine load rise your going the wrong way. If temperatures and/or engine load falls you going the right direction. This includes EGT's. The biggest thing is to watch your engine load. Timing wise as you get closer to what the engine likes it will go low on engine load. Go to far advanced or retard the engine load will rise. Another clue is engine oil temp the closer to correct timing the lower the engine oil temp will typically be while cruising.

I've not had another alternator failure myself but I know of at least two members here that installed the fuse and it did prevent the PCM damage. It does work. Like @IBMobilewill say 7.5 amp fuse, and I'm using a 5 amp fuse either way it will not draw a full 20 amps to try and blow the PCM fuse. Which the circuit board inside will not handle that much current.

Just came up to McCall for few odd and ends the temp in New Meadows is +13°F. Dang cold and freezing fog.

Here is my post about P0341...

Yeah even here the snow is leaving quickly out of the yard and been warm for about 4 to 5 days now. This morning starting at 37*F outside and got a yard full of mud now. Some of the locals are bit worried about the sudden changes in temperature and possible rain because mudslides and minor flood could occur.