Mopar1973Man

Back in my hypermling days I was pulling 600 to 700 miles a tank. My Max recorded MPG was 27.2 MPG hand math cruise set for 55 MPH that is top speed.

At least get back to 265/70 R17.

Glad to see everyone doing the smart thing regarding your own health. Be safe, wash your hands and wear a mask.

I'm concerned about COVID more to make sure the family stays safe. I'd really love it if it would just majorly snow on us. Giving a reason to just stay home.

Yeah I was in full speed ahead mode and then got to town and its slam on the brakes and rethink this through again. I'm going to finish my current jobs and most likely just hole up till we leave for Rainer, OR.

COVID UPDATE I'm going to starting limiting contact with people now. My buddy in town Steve Crump has just closed his shop and laid off his crew. Steve, his wife and kid all three and COVID positive. I heard from another client that there is another family both husband and wife both are COVID-19 positive. Soon as I got done at my clients place I called @Wet Vette and told her the news. I'm doing my utmost in trying to keep it out of my home being its this close now it time to limit my contact with others. It difficult with Eileen and having to do doctors appointments. You all should see me more around the website... Safer way to do business.

They still work awesome just if your in a heavy storm you going to stop and wipe them off once in awhile. Being where I live there is no real stopping at lights or stop signs to allow for heat to melts some off. My D2S projectors cast light up to full mile and at a 1/4 mile the arc upwards can engulf a 50 foot tree no problem. Good 20 to 50 feet off of both sides of the highway on a normal 2 lane.

The only problem is all the newer lighting is lower wattage and produces very little heat being the efficiency is so high there is little radiant heat to keeping frost or snow off the lens. Where old school halogen bulbs had enormous amount of radiant heat but low ~850 lumens. Now we have bulbs that take fraction of current and efficient LED or HID bulbs that produce low heat and more light at 2,000 to 4,000 lumens. Like my PIAA LEDs require a 1 AMP fuse. Little heat there.

I'd love to see it at about -20*F to -40*F to see if it holds up at all. My PIAA LED fog lights ($350) bury over easy. The My Morimoto D2S HID's ($750) will bury over at about -20*F in a snow storm. I'm pretty sure the 1996 Dodge will bury over quickly being there just average LED headlight bulbs ($70) and low heat production.

No mods done to my truck regarding the heater core. With a 190*F Thermostat I produce at least 160*F to 170*F temps from the center vents of the dash on a zero degree day. Never drilled out any fitting. Just clean the evaporator, double check your blend door, and just replace the heater core. If you want melt your face off hot jump from the 190*F to 200*F it will cook you out of the cab in less than 10 miles.

Again, COLD AIR hurts MPG hence why the MPG fooler was created.

I've seen a lot of this lately. Check the local NAPA for simple thing like seal or gasket maybe a thermostat no stock. But now head to RockAuto sure enough they have the part in stock yet. Like my last trip to Lewiston I was trying to get injector seals for Jacob truck and nothing in stock. We tried O'Rilley's and no problem they had it. Amazing how much stock is not there.

How about... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,wiper+&+washer,wiper+motor,8824

Oh its going to work out just fine. I've known this truck for quite some time. Still low miles on the engine just needs the time and effort now.

Valid points. Right now I'm just looking at getting it ruunning and being profitable truck. Not planning on racing or serious performance at this time just make it run. I've got other things to gather up. Like all the electrical on the bed is shot. None of the tail lights work right now. All kinds of little things to fix. Already got gauges and exhaust brake on it. Need to get those huge tires off get the ratio setup for towing and climbing grades, don't need pavement princess, need a work truck. Yeah if anyone has 3rd gen wheels (17 inch) I'll take them, even do a trade.

Yup. I agree. He could of been bought me parts in a timely manner or money for the parts and allow me to order the parts. Nope didn't happen. My phone number has been the same for YEARS. Nothing stopped him from calling me. Nope didn't happen. His Dad's place is in Riggins, ID he has to drive past my place to get there. He didn't even help me push it out of the shop. I got the receipt for the Title from the bank. Once that is in my hands I've already got a clutch waiting for it. Yeah... I'm going to say it. But I'm going to buy a clutch from NAPA to get it running. There is no power mods at this time so stock clutch will be fine. Injectors I can get as well but that is a bit bigger expense for even my budget. Just get it running and Title, Registration, and Insurance. Being I've got it I might just get the 1996 Dodge ready for sale in the Spring give it a good cleaning up and get it gone. I don't need 3 trucks.

Got quite a few of the Ford 6.9L and Ford 7.3L out here. Then the Fire Dept runs a couple a of Ford 6.0L (Six Ohs!). Now with @Jthorowning a Ford and want to continue down that path sure I'll get my hands dirty learning Ford with him. Back to injectors... The Ford HEUI injector is the closest to the common rail idea. The injection pump and injector are built a single unit. The high pressure oil is used to do the pump work. Then the rest of the injector is most or less the same. Just Ford create a common rail of sort where there is two rails of fuel and oil. The oil again is used ot pump the fuel up to injection pressure. Then the fuel is lift pumped to the injector when the injection event occurs the high pressure oil pumps the fuel up to pressure spraying out the nozzles. Problem with HEUI Injectors is if the owner doesn't keep up with oil changes the debris can plug up the sensors, enhance wear of the injectors. Since I'm working with @Jthorhe's learning the right way to extend the life of his truck and making improvements ever day.

Pretty sure its 12mm. Just measure the old washer. https://www.dieselautopower.com/vulcan-bonded-sealing-washers-12mm

The biggest thing I was noticing in the passenger side injectors both #3 and #5 had crusty ash deposits around the nozzle holes. I can see this fouling the spray pattern. So quick inspect wipe the crud from the nozzles and redo the injector seals. We found #3 had a bad oil seal that was possibly leaking oil back up into the head. (Ford HEUI Injectors) which stands for Hydraulically actuated electronic unit injection.

Yeah I know It not my style to make a move like that but dang come down yard the trans out om y floor and leave it there. Never came back. Never got parts nothing. It was @Jthorwho said, "Let's make a profit from this!" So we looked at both selling out right but Both @Jthorand myself are looking at doing hotshot work as well. That would give us a good work truck. Both agree on puting locking toolbox on the bed. Then it could used a service truck for local work. Possbly hitch up the RV at travel for work. Or just tow trailers for people. We've got good plans on this truck. As soon as the sun comes up... Pictures...

Add into the study here... @Jthor has a 1995 Ford 7.3L Powerstroke which we are getting prepped to injector clean up and reseal. We done 1, ,3 ,5 on the passenger side head. 7 we didn't get out and do yet. We picked up the seal for the other head and glow plugs. Now all we gotta do is clean up the driver side. In the meantime I got him to grab a bottle od Power Service "Diesel Kleen" grey bottle (400:1 mix). Then going against my own guidelines dropped a shot of 2 cycle (128:1) and took it out for a run and it sure started to clean up the injectors and run a bit smoother. I told @Jthorto run that fuel through on his trip to Boise today. It should help cook the carbon and stuff off the nozzles. But we did notice a change in power and even running smoother after about 5 to 7 miles of adding the mix.

Well gang. I now added one more to my fleet of Dodge Trucks. I had my friend drop off his truck and needed a clutch I told him to help me out I would do it for him. After we found out hes going to need a full clutch and flywheel at the time. He didn't have the money. He just left the truck on my shop for over a month which I shoved it out into the yard. Just walked away. Fast forward 6 month. I get a nasty message from him telling me to more or less to F off and he doesn't need friends like me. Ok... He could been stopping by and dropping a hundred a paycheck and got him a clutch but nope. No phone calls, no dropping by, nothing... Even @Wet Vette was upset how he's just left his mess here for nearly a full year. So, what about the truck. @Jthorcalled the bank and found out he's not paid on his loan at all. @Jthorexplained to the bank how much work is needed on the truck to make it run. The bank ask Price $x,xxx and he still explaining about this empty box and how it needs to be assembled. Bank replies again how about $xxx!!! Yup I wrote a check for that small sum and ran to town to purchase my 2006 Dodge Ram 3500. We are in the process of getting the title before we move forward anymore once we have ownership. New Clutch New Injectors New Wastegate Solenoid Remove the front lift kit Remove the oversized tires Finish installing the rear shocks I'll post photos very soon... 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 (SRW) Flatbed with gooseneck ready. Stock Engine 5.9L 6 Speed G56 transmission. 4WD

Break point is 80°F. When IAT temperature dips below +80*F then the timing advances about 3° to 4°... This is where the poor fuel mileage comes from being high cetane fuel ignites early and fast adding timing on top of that is where the mileage drops out. You should retard the timing slightly for cetane. Not so much the cold air than what your local fuel is in cetane and then how much more cetane you add on top. More cetane the more retard the timing needs to be.

Kind of like my Cummins. Same 3 phase torque method. Final on my ARP425 studs where 125 Foot/Pounds as well. The only difference I never did a second warm torque at all. According ARP themselves a warm or hot torque is not suggested. 424k miles and rolling on the clock.

Hell yeah that a good one... LMAO!