Mopar1973Man

I know the feeling to certain degree. Being I've been under a 2 post the weird standing positions you create to reach this bolt or that nuts pays a toll on your body. Time to slow down even more Mike. I know you wired the same way I am we keep working till the job is done but it might come at the cost of your body or health. Just slow down.

Specification right out of the Dodge FSM... The difference is so minimal... 1 Bar is 14.5 PSI 310 bar = 4496.17 PSI 320 bar = 4641.21 PSI 293 bar is the bottom limit by Dodge FSM (-250 PSI) 300 bar is what builders use (Shorter life span of about 50k to 60K) 305 bar is what builders use (shorter life span of about 70k to 80k ) 310 bar is equal to 4500 PSI - Stock pressure 320 bar is equal to 4641 PSI 327 bar is the upper limit by Dodge FSM (+250 PSI) The only reason builders go low they can hence the flow by going lower in pressure. This makes for a very large droplets and more smoke. Going up makes the atomaztion cleaner and slightly less fuel sprayed. Once you drop below 290 bar the injectors are getting even more smoke. By 280 your start to get a miss at idle. There is nothing gained by low pop pressure injectors but extra smoke and lower MPG's, high EGT's. I towed my RV to Arizona last summer and did over 14.7 MPG on my highest MPG. Averaged 12.6 for the trip to Arizona from Idaho. EGT's would not cross 1,200*F with my cruise set for 65 MPH. 320 bar Injectors are not the cause. The pump goes all the way up to over 18k to 21k roughly in pressure what it can build with WOT. 4 Ways to kill a VP44... Low fuel pressure High AC noise Low Lubricity of fuel Poor fuel filters I've been running 320 bar for 3 years just about now. Over 100k on the VP44 because I didn't tap till after 100k miles. Pop pressure is not the cause... We had people test all the way to 360 bar. Then 330 bar is nearly impossible in subzero to start. 320 bar is clean spray and starts all the way to -40*F which I've tested personally over 3 winters. Remember the Dodge FSM upper limit is 327 bar which I'm still under that limit. Now remember you can lose up to 10 bar in just the break in period of the injectors. Just ask @pepsi71ocean about what the pop pressure was after 28k miles...

Wow that's a lot of stuff there...

Either way will work just remember to buy a extra fuse to keep in the truck.

Down at the wye of the cables you got to have a sharp knife or cutter and cut the friction tape and the cable comes right out. I've done a few of these mods and they ttypically work out good. I've done one in Ontario, OR and it worked out good and finished in just over an hour to do the project. I've done my landlord for my other shop his turned out good but the circuit breaker wouldn't hold his loads for what ever reason. I had to install a fuse on the passenger side and it worked fine.

Why? All done for you... I've got my switch hidden in the pouch in the dash. Never know its even there. The bonus to the high idle switch you can do many other task with it. Some of the features and how they help. Cool down a hot cab in the summer. Set for 6 CYL and start the truck with MAX A/C on and it will cool down quickly. Working with a winch you can set 6 CYL mode and keep the alternator charging strong on the batteries while working the winch. Jump start another vehicle. This is so nice hook up and set 6 CYL and let it charge up and start the dead vehicle. 3 CYL mode and exhaust brake I can produce up to 1,000*F EGT's and warm up a cold engine in a mere 8 to 10 minutes from -20*F to 170*F coolant temp. Select the MPG mode and the IAT is forced up to 143*F so the ECM RETARDS the timing in the winter time giving roughly 2 MPG gain. 6 CYL mode is locked as long as the switch is left in the 6 CYL position. If you turn it off after starting you can have it auto cancel at 170*F coolant temp.

OEM is a very thin 140 AMP fuse. Same here never popped the factory fuse either. It might be... I'm saying its not possible but at the same time I'm still using a 140 Amp breaker with no problem. Mine is tucked on the BHAF side near the fender and guarded by the heat shield too. If its too close to hot surfaces it could trip early for no good reason.

Not to high jack either This is where the concept came from. I figured out how to control the ECM with a few toggle switches and resistors. Same concept today but the package is smaller and much easier to use for you and much easier to produce for me. I've gotta say THANK YOU to @Me78569 being he does my solder work and The Harness Shop in Caldwell, ID that produces the cables. Yup that is VERSION 1.0 back a long time ago...

I'm using the cheap China/Amazon breaker. No issues to report. I've done another ground wire mod and even let him use my breaker on the customers truck and would pop the breaker all the time. We swapped to an actual 150 Amp fuse on his truck and the problem left. There is something about system loads or other accessories that keep the alternator constantly charging or weak batteries with internal shorted cells. The break is held to the high charge rate too long and the bi-metal strip heats and pops. My truck I've updated most all the lighting to LED's and HID headlights so my electrical load is very low on the alternator.

If enabled... For 6 CYLINDER - IAT must stay below 32*F with grid heaters running, and the ECT must be below 140*F to start. For 3 CYLINDER - IAT must stay below 15*F with grid heaters running, and the ECT must be below 140*F to start. To CANCEL Step on the brake pedal Step on the throttle pedal Auto Transmission shifted into gear. Road speed above 0 MPH

It to have the ground on the driver side battery and the charge lead on the passenger battery totally separated and now less like to bleed the AC noise over. When you unwrap the charge lead you find its wrapped right with the ground wire.

Did anyone run a Smarty on the truck possibly? A Smarty Tuner will automatically enable the high idle and leave it for you too. This is how I got mine enabled on my truck and remians enabled.

If something weird happens... To reboot the ECM you just got to turn off the ignition and wait a 30 seconds to full minute. Then when you restart the truck the ECM and the Quadzilla both do a fresh reboot.

Might make sure you up to date with the most resent flash files.

If the Cummins ECM software is enabled you can't run the Quadzilla High Idle too. The two system tend to get in conflict and then stall out the engine. I typically turn off the Quadzilla high idle in the winter time and use the Mopar1973Man High Idle switch. This way I still can control high idle for the Cummins ECM and just shut off the Quadzilla. There is NO WAY to shut off the ECM software once its enabled. You would have to go to a dealer and have your ECM reflashed to disable the high idle function. All about that system...

You sure? Like myself I can run the Quadzilla high idle in the summer as long as the IAT is above 32*F at start up.

Also don't want to run high idle if there is the ECM software enabled. If your using the Mopar1973Man high idle kit you should shut off the Quadzilla High idle.

Very important not to try and build a power tune when its wet or icy. Very dangerous mix. I'm actually now tuned down to level 2 and my Daily Driver tune is very aggressive on the down low and if there is any water or ice the game is totally over the tires spin easy. @Wet Vette seen that on my last trip to Lewiston, ID.

With the server screwed up in the MySQL database and missing information I had to more or less REBOOT the database with fresh data from the software. Noiw things are working correctly.

Link to the write up?

80,000 miles during my 2 cycle oil testing and this what mine look like after 80k miles of 2 cycle oil usage at 128:1 ratio. 150k miles on the injectors.

Thanks Rogan...

No filter on my return line of even my wood splitter...

Exactly. I would never put a filter in the return line of the fuel system. Same reason I will not put a filter in the return line of the power steering either.

I'm too embarrassed to admit I've dropped a tree on my truck about 4 years after buying the truck. I've got that all fixed. Then after MoparMom pasted away I had to stop by and pay the bill for cremation. Then my truck breaks the parking brake cable and then rolls into a 4th gen truck. Denting the rear passenger side, cracking my taillight and adding a few more dents to the tailgate. One day soon maybe I'll get the insurance company to fix it. Got room behind that couch?