Mopar1973Man

Being the display is your phone then just turn off your iQuad App. Nothing to see folks... Just a stock truck needing a smog check. Even @Me78569 master the Quadzilla enough to be able to run the Quadzilla and pass his smog check. You could like many just set a lower power limit for Valet Mode and that all the fuel they would get period. Hence all most look for is how dark if any smoke is produced. Same rule is Ada County, Idaho.

As for stashing a Quadzilla that is so simple. Since there is no display in the cab no one would know it was there. Now for the module and hook up hook up the same just hide your wiring with factory stuff. Hide the module like inside the fender skins I'm pretty sure there is a enough reach.

Me personally I'd never put the straw in the sender. Being now your dumping hot 170-180*F fuel from the return of the head returning from the injectors. Like my truck the Fuel Temp and IAT run as a pair. I'm never over 130*F in the summer and no heat soak of the VP44 always goes down after the engine shuts down not up. Like yesterday being I draw from the fuel tank directly I was a mere 90 to 110*F fuel temps for the day and never return even close to the draw straw. All fuel is return away from the suction straw. This way I've got much colder fuel for the VP44 to cooled with. Been running this system since 2006 and never was a disappointment. No 1/4 sloosh issues No high fuel temp issues. Can empty tank to the EMPTY mark safely Much cooler fuel temps Stable fuel pressures As seen here IAT and Fuel Temp chase each other. NOTE: Transmission temp is actually engine oil temperature. Note my location which is away from the sender basket with hot fuel. Then note my straw nearly touches the bottom of the tank...

Cranking I see bouncing 7 to 12 PSI. Running I see 17 at idle and 15 at WOT. I'm nowhere near 20 PSI or plus pressures. I'm very close to the stock pressure with good supply volume and plumbing since I only drop maybe a total of 2 to 3 PSI depending on filters how clean they are. The cranking pressure is a 50% duty cycle the ECM controls and it shoulbe lower than 12 PSI for proper starting above 12 PSI it becomes hard starting being the timing piston is being pushed advanced with fuel pressure. Hence why you need 7 to 12 PSI for cranking. Way too many worry about the 14 PSI MIN pressure but the truth is you don't need 20+ PSI either. You nee to look at the cranking pressure as the engine is trying to start and lower the pressure to 7 to 12 bouncing PSI. 422k miles never had a hard start hot ever...

Rear axle speed sensor typically will see as a goofy speedometer that doesn't work right all the time. Like get below 30 MPH and drops to 0 or something odd. That is a failed sensor. Now the front to sensors if you suspect the front replace in pairs.

Myth.. I quit cleaning the sensor and just check the sensor again the ECT at start up if matching the sensor is working. Below 80*F there is about 3* to 4* advancement of timing. Warming the IAT the better for MPG's. No need for cleaning or replacement unless the temperature is way off. Typically I see about +40*F over outside air. Then IAT and Fuel Temp typically run as a match pair. I'm still running my OEM IAT it has not been clean in hundreds of thousands of miles but the temperature is dead one the money.

Like I said the front two tower bolt were not tight so when I pulled down to 4th I pull the shift rod right out of the gate. If the tower was tight it might not have happened. Being I normally just stay in 5th for most highway driving. Remember 55 MPH is about 2,200 RPMs in 4th. Again normal just stay in 5th.

Yup. It finally happened to me. Dropped from 5th to 4th rolled up my power tried to shift to 5th again... NOPE so I'm stuck in 4th limped into Hoots Cafe in Whitebird, ID. Im glad my sockets with me. Quickly pulled the cup holder up. The the boots. Then the shift tower. Everything was good just jumped out of the gate. Push the center fork back to neutral. Reassembled. Took 20 minutes with basic tools. Now in Grangeville ID getting breakfast.

I get what he's talking about like some times you'll see little depressions in the rubber outer jacket and then some how the inner jacket splits and the oil would weep from the depressions of the outer jacket. I've not seen that but I see how it would be possible. As for my oil leaks so far a couple of running around day here doing typical things going to work, going to the dump, etc. So far not leaking. I'm going to head to Lewiston for grocery shopping and restock for the month. I'm going to pick up a gallon of Zep Degreaser concentrate. Then I'll spray it directly to the engine bottom and clean this mess up with the power washer. Just be aware the Zep degreaser is an acid so don't leave on aluminum for long periods. I'm pretty sure Home Depot has there own brand of it too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Gal-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759

Give DAP a call they have rebuilt kits for turbos. Once rebuilt it will be all new again. You could upgrade to 62/68/12 they have them as well DAP for a good price. Works with factory exhaust brake too.

3.73 would be just about right for most people with slide in camper or tow a lot. For me its all the steep mountain roads.

And... What happened?

Like this dual disc Valair started out with being grabby and shake the crap out the truck. I start launching in 1st gear and solved most of the problem but the reverse was bad trying to push trailers up a slight hill and have the clutch bucking and jump. After a about a year it started to fade out and quit. Now it smooth as glass forward or reverse. Last time I pulled the transmission out for failed syncro Weller truck (Abe) wanted me to pull the clutch and inspect. Which I did. The clutch was fine both friction disc no issues. The metal surfaces pressure plate was fine no hot spots, the center disc was fine on both sides now hot spots, then the flywheel was the same way with no hot spots. Reinstall everything and its still smooth. Still to this day no traction bars.

Actually I think I got it. Between the front cover might of been weeping around the edge. Then the vacuum pump bolts were totally loose on the bottom. The only bad thing that happened I destroyed the installing sleeve on my front crank seal. Kept trying and trying till I split the install sleeve. Bought a second crank seal got it in the front cover no problem. Bolted down carefully pulled the sleeve out. Then re-installed the sleeve in the other new seal. Now I've got an extra seal again. As for the other bolts in the gear case you can seethe top most but nearly insane to try to spot the other 3 Allen bolts under the can gear. I need to power wash it down again and see what is leaking again. Next one is to figure out power steering fluid leak being I've been adding fluid to the system. Last time I was in Boise and steering and brake performance dropped. Sure enough the fluid was low. With all the other mess leaking above this made it impossible to tell. As for the steering box it might be the output shaft seal again. If so Ryan at Blue Top agreed to rebuild that box for free being I've not had good luck with it. Not saying anything bad about Blue Top Steering great guy and stand behind his product.

Another suggestion is to talk to @Dynamic about the transmission upgrade. He'll guide you on what you need. He did a awesome job on my 46RE in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500.

Yup with oversized tires yes you killed it quick. You not suppose to use quick ratio box on oversized tires as I was told from Ryan at Blue Top Steering. All oversize tires truck should use the standard ratio. On this thought with power steering if the fluid is getting over heated from the quick ratio and possible constant load on the pump. Might check the fluid temp with IR gun and see. Personal note since I'm running 30 inch tires I've opted for the quick ratio as a upgrade. As suggest by Blue Top Steering. Hydrobooster can be rebuilt with a seal kit from Pirate Jacks after doing one myself its not too bad but watch carefully about the input rod and the small check valve that might fall out when you split the body. As for the hydrobooster it does have any way to vary the pedal feel or distance. The only thing I can think of pressure is low and the pedal is hard, doesn't travel much. This is partial because the speed in the ABS is most likely not corrected possibly. The ABS thinks there is 31 inch tires not 35 inch tires. So what is trying to do possible is dump pressure to prevent lock up or what it think is lock up (speed sensor dropped lower quick). Could be a bad front sensor that causing the brake pedal to fall or be pump back up. ABS system can drop the pedal, dumping pressure if the one front axle is looking like a lock up. This would be one place I would look being ABS can vary the pedal feel.

I've had suggest gear swaps for several vehicles now and all of them seen marked improvements. Even a Dodge Cummins here locally he got 37" tires swapped from 3.55 to 4.10. Afterwards it was much better performance and MPG.

Yup a lot of members have switch over to 19.5 tires for long haul use. Not unheard of. Not look at speed as a factor but how much does it take to get to speed... That's all.

Quadzilla was up and running IIRC was my economy tune set for kill on 7. Boost leak was man made by remove the hose and the bolt from the manifold.

Count the numbers of driveshaft turns to the one turn of the tire. Either going to be 3.55 or 4.10 turns of the driveshaft. My magic number of 3.69 is the 265/75 R16 to 245/75 R16 with 3.55 axles. Still a stock tire size. The early years was 245's and the later years to favor the big tire crazy were the 265's. I was also wondering about the 19.9 rims. 19.5 that makes more sense. But that still puts you a lower ratio than 3.55. You could run it but always have that extra loading on the driveline. I was opting to head towards 3.73 because of the power and towing reasons. So for all the long hauls, I've done to Arizona and up north. Been a super good final ratio. Super fast to build power and pass other vehicles. Like a few days ago I took Jacob @Wet Vette, son, to town doing little oil leak hunt on my truck. When I came home through the slide I pass the construction zone and got open ground and laid on the throttle. She snapped the boost gauge to 49 PSI and the rear tires started letting go RPM took off and this was at 45 MPH (4th gear) and damp asphalt. 3.69 ratio is a super quick ratio and puts me at a perfect 66 MPH at 2K on the tach. I'm staying in 5th gear longer now in the mountains and not having to shift down as much. Being that 55 MPH isn't at 1,400 anymore. I can leave it high gear and pull easy up to 100 MPH in about 5 second from 65 MPH. Make it really strange that on CANBus fuel alone no wiretap from the Quadzilla. Truck below is the 245/75 R16 tires on Stock 16x7 wheels from early 2nd Gen. Both picture and sig below)

Let me enlighten you on boost leaks. I took the wastegate hose over the turbo and left it OPEN. Then went over to the manifold and REMOVED a single bolt. Then cranked it up and drove it. With the MASSIVE boost leak, I can hear the air whistling clearly. Only lost a mere 7 PSI (maxed out 41) or so. EGT only rose a mere +100*F more. The truck was very drivable yet but blowing air out massive. No excessive smoke or nothing. Just loss of about 7 PSI of boost about 100 degrees hotter that's it.

Yes there is a option for 3.73 gears. The last one in McCall ID that did an gear change from 3.55 to 4.10 gear for 37" wheels it was roughly $4,400 buck for both front and rear axles. What I tell people is to barrow a set of stock wheels and tires and go for a drive. Most people afterwards would just about sell there bigger tires and wheels. Yeah your sitting at 3.37:1 final to the ground so you will benefit from changing out to 3.73 gears to fit your current wheels. The 3.73 would bring you right back to the 3.55 final ratio for the most part. Like I opted for lower yet aiming for 3.73 finals and you find that the truck is even quicker. Does cap out the top end a bit but still can reach 100 MPH easy. So if you did the 4.10 gears it would put you at 3.89 which is a bit too low in ratio so you most likely right at 3.73 gears.

Wrong face type but there is a 0 to 60 PSI option.

Just to jump back here and place that article its rough but the point is there...

Easy enough to do... Fuel pressure https://www.dieselautopower.com/ev-fuel-pressure-0-30-r17033 Pyrometer https://www.dieselautopower.com/pyro-2-w-color-band-0-1600 Boost https://www.dieselautopower.com/ev-electronic-turbo-boost-0-40-r17333 Boost I was looking for a 0 to 60 PSI which I didn't find right now...