Mopar1973Man

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99 2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Here you go... My decade long study...

Lack of lubricity... If pressure is good then the lubricity is too low and bound up the timing piston.

Like I was figuring out guys in the south with high fuel temp passing 150°F to 160°F where I don't see that problem the only thing I can wrap it up with is the fact the source of new fuel in the sender is captive where the hot fuel is stored. Then suck up the heat fuel again and again heating up. Pumps will only recirculate the hot fuel back in forth in that small cup of the fuel tank sender and wonder why the fuel temp is high. Since I installed my AirDog 150 back in 2006... I've not seen any Asphaltene in my filters since then. Fuel temps remain much lower than most that use the fuel sender cup for capture point.

I don't... I normally clean the splines off with brake clean and don't add any grease to the splines of the input shaft. Just seems to collect dust and debris. Adding to wear of the input shaft. Without grease then the debris doesn't stick and the plate(s) don't gum up with dust loaded grease.

Guilty as charged... Being I've done so much ground wire changes to the engine already and mindful of weird issues. Just never thought that it would bite me that way and create all kinds of issues. Live and learn. Let me know if I need to settle up or just swap back modules.

Dang... Morning started at 5am this morning two cups of coffee later I'm already done work on site theme slightly, then handled all the replies I did. Trying to schedule a server move to the new hosting company. Man I'm tired and I just go up and worked nearly 2 hours at this.

Here is a clip of yesterday heading towards McCall ID and the lack of blue skies and dense fire smoke flood us out.

So fuel systems don't return at all. Like Dodge DDRP pumps. These pumps are known for cavitation problems. Pumps that return like AirDog, FASS with twin filters typically will return to the filler neck for air removal and return from the regulator of the pump. These typically return to the filler neck like @JAG1said. Still the engine fuel return is still in the stock sender of the tank. I don't want to draw up fuel that is heated to near coolant level being it drains out of the back of the head from the injectors. The the heated fuel from the injection pump. All dump back in a sump of the sender heated to near coolant temps. So my old drawstraw that everyone hates is the best option for cooled fuel and reducing the VP44 fuel temps. Even in the winter time with my stock filter I can still keep the fuel warm enough to prevent gelling at -40*F which I did several times no problem.

Heck that bolt has moved in like 7 years till the last wood cutting trip I shook the truck pretty good as I was climbing the grade and the rough wash board. Dodge mades it but the Cummins shakes it loose... Got to admit runs much better.

Ok... Now I feel like a total idiot... I've gotta say "Sorry, to @Quadzilla Power" I got my new module and send back my old module after testing the old module one last time. Needless to say the new unit acted just as weird and goofy. Every time I ease out the clutch the iQuad app would disconnect. Then if I continued to drive the iQuad remains out but now tossed MAP sensor codes. Double check the MAP. Cleared the codes. Check for +12V on the red/white and the red wire. All good. Check the ground wire... The bolt was ready to fall out... So I'm betting Marco fires up my old module and finds it still functional. After I tighten the ground bolt again ALL problems stopped. Running up that rough road to go firewood cutting shook the truck pretty good so when the bolt backed out of the ground wire the module dropped and fed all kinds of weird message causing the weird throttle and knocking. So I technically owe @Quadzilla Power for the new module it was my end that failed.

Best having the straw in the tank not the sender. Returning hot fuel to the VP44 isn't good. The the measurement for inside the sender is very limited. This why I kept my draw straw where it at for over 20 years now always been able to draw the tank empty (actually empty on the gauge). All about how tight you can get the tip to the bottom of the tank as when it gets empty. When you fill the tank the bottom will deflect downward another 1/8" of so. Never measure with a tank that has fuel in it. Never had 1/4 slosh problems and always had cooler fuel temps than most. 420k miles and ticking...

Ok back on track. Fuel pressure wise I would look at for any kinks in the hoses, any loose suction lines might be weeping air, etc.

Right here... We are providing picture hosting with a subscription. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/

Too squirrelly... Should hover 795 to 805 RPM. Target is 800 RPM. I would consider testing injectors.

No. Return to sender is HOT fuel. You do not to draw that back up. Adding more heat to the VP44. My typically fuel temp is about 110 to 120F... draw from the tank is much cooler fuel.

Not always. But yes typically there is a code.

Remove the Quadzilla test again. Like I found out it can foul the idle and other thing when my Quadzilla failed. If it still not working right then I would consider a new VP44.

Yeah try and get live data of the rail pressure and what your idle engine load is.

Videos do load... What is your engine load on al ive data tool or Quadzilla? What is your idle speed without your foot on the throttle? Any error codes?

Draw straw should nearly touch the bottom. No diagonal cuts. No excessive gap. There is only the thickness of a quarter between my straw. As I fill with fuel the diesel weighs about 6.3 to 6.7 pounds per gallon. Depending on cetane level higher cetane is lighter per gallon. So 35 times 6.7 pounds per gallon. That's 234 pound it will cause the bottom of the tank to deflect another 1/8 to 3/16 of inch. Adding gap but as the tank empties now the bottom comes up to the tip of the straw allowing me to suck all the fuel out. I can run all the way to the EMPTY mark and never died out.

Did you verify the gauge with a mechanic gauge? Hence why I made this bracket. Now I can unscrew the sender add a tee the hook up my test gauge and hang it on the door. Now I can verify mechanic test gauge against the electric to verify the sender is good. The other reason for the bracket. The remote mount of the sender are away from the fuel system a total of 5 to 6 feet of tubing. At the source point I've got a snubber and 5 to 6 feet of tubing. This allows the pulses to die out as they travel up to the sender. I've got YEARS on this fuel pressure gauge now and still working flawless. I just want to change the reaction speed of the needle to slow it down. ISSPro programming software and just plugin the programming cable.

Between the needle valve, snubber and distance I use to protect the sender (sensor). Sensor itself I would say to check with the gauge company to be sure it calibrated for your gauge.

Welcome to the family Eric... you might want to update your signature line in your profile and maybe post a few pictures of your trucks that should bring them running.