Mopar1973Man

Correction its a 4 speed auto transmission 47RE in a 2000. An automatic transmission is weak in stock form. Personally I would go from the Bank to Quadzilla this way you have control of timing for MPG purpose and then you can write a good light defuel curve to launching with an auto to prevent damage. You can start off with a fair amount of defuel and then grow it up on the upper end preventing transmission damage. This is not possible with a Banks tuner. Banks is a canned tuner designed for stock injectors and stockish timing. Like my "Economy Tune" start off light and keep the power down till about 12 PSI of boost then by 15 PSI my wire tap can kick in for added power but done cleanly no smoke. Being I've managed to shear off 5th gear at 80 MPH. But the wire tap is so high that I never reach wire tap in normal driving. You can tune the timing in and gain upwards of about 2 to 4 MPG if done properly. Most canned tuners are designed strictly for stock injectors. Now adding larger injectors typically you have to start advancing timing. Quadzilla Adrenaline 180 HP DAP 150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) BHAF HX35/40 Hybrid turbo 4 inch Diamond Eye exhuast NV4500 Transmission 3.55 Gears with 245 tires with a final ratio of 3.69:1 to the pavement. 422k miles and clocking!

Simpler and cheap... Mayo jar and piece of tubing... Being using this for over 18 years never had any air issues.

Did you install ARP studs?

Done wore the entire door panel and arm rest out on my truck years ago. I need to pull the fabric and replace it and add some padding below.

First I would hose that with spray lube of some sort, PB blaster, etc. Typically I would reach up from the bottom with a impact gun and hit the trigger for a short burst in remove, and then rewverse and drive it back in. Then reverse and again to remove. Each time rocking the bolt back and forth brings a bit of lube to the threads. Growing slightly longer runs each pass. Might add more spray too as I go depending on the bolts. Not broke any bolts there yet. Just did a 4" inch diamond eye exhaust for local gal with a 2001 Dodge. Impact gun is a key part of success its the hammering that helps when straight pull with a ratchet will typically break the bolt.

Just easier to change the fluid when it time and use a magnet on the PTO cover that picks up the very same metal without a filter. Hmmm....

They are a pain to set up where you back off completely. So the rod is it shortest more or less. Then keep adding till the release is just barely at the top of the pedal. This is correct. Adding more beyond this takes a huge risk of hyper extending the bearing through the pressure plate fingers. Lot of adjust, re-pin, test, re-adjust, re-pin, test. Best off with the old school stock hydros. No adjustment and no need to adjust. I'm even running dual disc Valair clutch too. No issues.

Random surging at idle is not a Quadzilla issues. At idle there is no Quadzilla control it should be all ECM at idle. Once you let off the throttle and the RPM drop below 1,200 the ECM takes over and Quadzilla is in standby.

Do you have ARP studs installed?

Oh yeah flush the power steering system every 30k miles. Yes there is rebuild kits for just about everything on these truck nothing is throw away.

89 inch / pound on the injector hold down. This is not tighten first. The cross over tube is first to center the injector first. Once the cross over tube snugged up you can do the injector hold down.

Nope. I dont suggest adjustable hydros. Most people over adjust and hyper extend the throw out bearing in the the pressure plate causing damage to both. Ive used NAPA master and slave for years. Always worked great. The other one that is super solid is the Autozone master and slave which are aluminum bodies not plastic.

Could save a bunch of money and just get the seal kit for the booster. I think is 39 dollars for the hydro booster kit from Pirate Jacks. I'm still using the OEM brake master at 422k miles. I flush the system every 30k miles. Still working fine.

Looking at your avatar as well seeing over sized tires. Make sure you NOT using a quick ratio box. If your box is failing because of binding up then I say replace it. Only use a standard ratio steering box. This will lessen the load on the steering box. Steering boxes are super easy to rebuild too and some of the companies like Ryan @Blue-Top Steering has kits to rebuild our boxes or just send yours in and he'll rebuild it and send it back. As for the power steering pump if the pump is wiped out. While you have it apart I would consider doing the vacuum pump rebuild too. The landlord at my other shop just lost the steering column bearing in his Dodge. You can run your hand down the cab side and rock the wheel and feel it popping in the shaft.

Give him a call I guess I figured if I tagged him he would respond but it seems he's busy these days. Head over to his forum section and his contact info is listed. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Check the CCD network voltage. There should be 2.49 volts and 2.51 volts in reference to ground.

Give @Dynamic a shout and talk to him.

Ok another thought do you ever reach 195 to 197°Fworth of coolant? Cold engines will amp up idle. As coolant goes down it adds idle RPM. Might need just a thermostat.

Unplug and then start. Not good to break connection while powered up. Then shutdown and hook up then clear the codes

I would consider the APPS because its NOT in idle mode. When in idle mode it ignores the APPS signal and uses the ECM software. Being your APPS is still throttling mode its following the voltage hence why it never reaching 800 RPM. Unplug the APPS it should force ECM idle being no signal is provided. It will trip a code for p0122 again.

Thank you for the kind words.

This is why I say do the job right. Look at the evaporator its covered in debris. The heater core is showing signs of leaking too. See now you rebuilt the entire system and the heater works better and the A/C will be nice and cold to meet you in the spring of the year. Everyone of the evaporator I've pull range from lightly covered to densely covered faces. Anyways afterwards I always get comments about the better air flow and better heating and cooling performance. Hence why I will not suggest any heater core change out short cut. Not to mention there is no filter system to prevent that either. It would have to be a paper filter of some sort to stop all thje small particles sticking to the face like yours. Evaporator sweats and stay wet while the A/C or DEF is running. It will collect dust and debris then dries off later to hang on to it. Just best to pull everything servicing and clean like you did and move on for 5 to 7 years and do it again.

Gotta ask do you have oversize tires on your truck? Any lift kits or leveling kits? If so stock value wheel alignment will not work. Custom values have to be made to work with altered geometry of the front axle.

Weird... Idle should be 800 RPM period. I wonder if the crank sensor on your truck is tired? Any other error codes? (If any).The only time this is above 800 RPM is when the APPS switches to THROTTLING then the idle software is shut off. This would cause the high idle. I've got to ask again another weird one Stock APPS of Timbo's APPS? A bad APPS with the throttle line still grounded would make it idle high and low engine load. Could be a possible an error code for APPS possibly? This is common for someone that has tapered with the voltage. I would replace the APPS with a Timbo APPS but that's me.

320 bar is where I'm at 100k miles roughly and 7 to 11% engine load at idle and perfect 800 RPM still (+/-5 RPM). 310 bar is what the stock injectors and RV275 are popped too. 305 bar is what most injectors builder like to use but at the cost of shorter longevity and more fuel flow. 300 bar is another I've seen on some injectors where looking for more fuel flow. 293 bar is the bottom limit set by Bosch for injectors. 280 bar typically you start hitting close to 0% engine load. 260 bar the idle will be close to 850 to 875 RPM and engine load of zero.