Mopar1973Man

It was cause from not flushing the cooling system every 50k to 75k miles. The coolant becomes corrosive and starts breaking down the metals in the cooling system and then produces the scale blooms around the core tubes in the radiator. Heater core is most likely weeping enough to dampen the face while parked and as it warms up steam is released in the cab. Make sure to pull the entire HVAC case and clean it out it does get rather ugly inside the case.

Heat core is shot...

Yuk. Someone should look at screening the intake and checking the floor where pipes and stuff come up from below.

410k miles on mine still twisting...

Give them a call on Monday and see.

Most likely the module is running the ABS pump motor. The only thing you have do is remove the screws and pull the module up off the valve body. Then send it to Module Master and let them rebuild the module. It only cost $130 dollars and warrantied for 5 years. https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

Bingo. I got lucky here was enough dirt on the allen socket that it wedged up and stayed on the socket. The biggest part was lining it all back up and getting the screw back in.

Old video... It will show first attempt a ari bubble comes through on the second it shows the 50% duty rate of fuel pressure bouncing.

Start of next week I've got to head right into the hub of it all and get Eileen's medication being they will not ship pain meds.

Above 15 PSI mine won't start either. That's why cranking pressure is dropped is because too much pressure will cause over advanced timing. This is why ECM duty cycles the power during cranking to reduce fuel pressure. Like pull the belt and test. If it starts hot then it's too high of cranking pressure. Like us electric guys just unplug. If it's still a problem there is a delay relay that could hold the power off during cranking. This is not an option on mechanical pumps.

I pulled my other fire radio from the shop and fired it up in the house. Just mere minutes ago I heard the first case of Corona in Riggins, ID head to the hospital in McCall Idaho. I know of 2 cases in McCall already and one for sure in Riggins, ID.

No. There is literally nothing to see. It's all by feel. No way to even make a video with my big paws in the road. You can't even see the sensor from the top.

Too high starting pressure needs to be 12 PSI down to 7 PSI.

Hes got pre and post EGT's.

In the this case the cam sensor got replace that stopped the P0341 code. Then the grid heaters remain unplugged for now and still the circuit breaker is holding. My new one is here on my desk waiting to be installed. Oh just for teaser... Cam sensor on a 2001 truck can be changed in under 30 minutes.

Up here in central Idaho isn't too bad. Most have started self isolation at home way before the press release of the notification. Highway past the house is quiet most of the time. Already have cases of Corona in Riggins and in McCall already.

It will help it. Less restriction, easier flow. DDRP are not all that hot of a fuel pump. Typically mount in the factory position.

VOID stickers typically around the VP44 plug, usually removed or torn after replacement.

I always suggest 1/2 inch lines better pressure stability. As most of us tend to upgrade power a bit more and add tuners for performance and/or economy reasons.

Funny, @Wet Vette little Hyundai whips the 1996 Dodge no prob... 2002 not happening...

Just getting broke in... As for the VP44 pumps they will go 250k miles on average. You do need to upgrade the fuel system. 14 to 20 PSI is good fuel pressure.

Module Master https://www.google.com/search?q=module+master 2006 S Main St, Moscow, ID 83843 (208) 892-0764 Comes with 5 year warranty and all parts used are upgrades. All for $130... https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

Yes just last week a EMT was traveling too fast to respond to a call and wound up rolling her vehicle off a mountain road. She survive with injuries. Out here you cannot just rely on service brakes to survive 7 to 15 miles of downgrades. Most of the dirt roads could be in the 6 to 12% grades on average. There are some roads 16% and greater and most are not marked. No matter what its super nice to come down a grade without touching the brake pedal and keeping your brakes cool till you need them. Not hoping for the already hot and smoking brakes to stop you in time. @JAG1 found out that without a exhaust brake it will heat the grease up in the front wheel bearing and shortly afterward the wheel bearings fail.

Bingo!

Always rev match my gears to lighten the load on syncros. Easy peasy... Try the bigger grades like 16% grades in the back country. The 6% and 7% grades are child's play. No riding the brake pedal in any of my videos. 90% of all stopping is done with exhaust brake. Even fully loaded with firewood, or hauling my RV trailer which GVWR is 8,500 pounds.