Mopar1973Man

Yeah I just looked at that... Wow!

Skip the XZT you can't adjust the tune to fit the truck. Not as efficient.

Deal with the codes first... P1689 is a power of communication problem with the VP44. P1698 is a CCD bus issue. Then 1500 RPM problem is a ECM problem typically that has been damaged. I've seen a few being damaged PSG units on the VP44.

Quadzilla tuner is the for sure bet. You could use some of my tunes. I'm now working on 3 tunes... Economy updates Performance building Towing building My economy tune currently on my phone is now pushing upwards into the 20's for sure. My current one I dropped the fuel map quite a bit and amped up the timing again. Then the performance tune I'm wider spread of timing. Then pretty steep fuel curve and plenty of wire tap this one is hot running. Now my tow tune is coming into shape a little at a time. I'm hoping to reach a good solid 14 MPG on the trailer.

My offer is open... If you want I can guide you on building tunes or you can give me call at 208-315-1470 and I'll school you over the phone the best I can.

Good video... I'm still kind of upset about how all this corona virus (COVID-19) is being handled. Still having issues finding pulbic restrooms and places to wash your hands when out in public. Trying to just go shopping and waste an 15 to 30 minutes waiting in lines to just enter the stores. Washington and Oregon both are now letting only limited count of people enter stores. This makes a long day after driving 3 hours to the city and then having to wait in more lines. Me personally I've called my best friend @Taz and his girl friend and had them come out yesterday and help me move furniture and junk out of the house. Threw out Mom's 35 year old couch, and old cabinet I used for computer stuff. Been working hard at cleaning up the house and getting things in a functional state while the corona virus runs. All the stuff of Mom's that I will be up for sale is being moved to the Guest house for now till Corona Virus finishes. Eileen has been up and working as much as she can. My current project working on a carb...

All good... No problem that why we all come here o hang out is to help out with all problem regardless if they seem foolish or stupid. We all learn from each others mistakes and ideas. Don't sweat it.

Stock truck no tuner or nothing will typically net you about 16 to 17 MPG. Being he doesn't have a tuner I can see there isn't any more that can be done for now. I would also have the injectors tested or replaced. If the injectors are older than 100k miles they are done and worn out. Even if it still runs good the pop pressures will be too low and MPG usually suffers from the poor atomization.

Grid heater solenoids can stick and drain a battery out over night. My landlord was having this issue and was calling in a panic because the truck battery is dead. WTS light is damaged in any way will throw a P0381 code. If the ECM is having troubles booting up because of internal software errors it will lag getting the WTS light lit. The ECM will not function till the WTS light comes on. This is the first instruction that the ECM will check the IAT and set the WTS light.

Yeah I forgot the level 0 will start high idle regardless. I do that in the winter time when I was waiting for Mom to finish dialysis.

This is calculated not actual. Its based off RPM, gear ratio, etc. and some math to figure out what gear position. What is the IAT and ECT temperatures at firs tkey on without starting. These two values should match. If there is aseveral degrees of skew then I would say replace the ECT sensor.

I typically run level 3 unless more power is needed. Anything with wire tap I could push through the 1,200 barrier pretty easy. Even towing a trailer on level 3 does extremely well.

Where in at in a national forest yeah I can work with tune and clean them up before using on the highway. Like I will admit I have a performance tune that I'm building. It going to be fuel heavy but not super smokey. Just that haze that tells me I reached my max fuel my turbo can handle. Then my economy tune has been reworked with a shorter fuel map, pretty good timing increase. Then I'm working on a tow tune as well to get all the fuel burnt, without excessive EGTs. Different timing map, and modified fuel map. Being that no one can really drive faster than speed limit there is no super need for speed tunes. My tunes are based more on MPG than power. Being everywhere I go is 100 plus mile trips. My old routine was nearly 1,000 miles a week, best part 150 Hp injectors still getting 21 MPG. Now catch me if you can... My Highmore on record is 27.2 MPG. Doubt anyone can best that. Fuel only....

As for the error codes... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ Then as for the CCD network...

Welcome to the site... First off that is a heck of a read. Could be loss of prime cause by a a air leak into the line. Another I gotta ask about is the WAIT TO START light coming on instantly? If the WAIT TO START does not come on then the ECM is NOT booted and will not start till it does come on. EVS? I'm not sure what this device is. PCM is the master computer that starts the CCD network bus and ECM boots up separately. As for the entire network and what is there. Grid heaters. It's possible for the grid heater solenoid to stick and draw the batteries stone dead in a night. Like my landlord called me up in a panic that his truck has dead batteries. We charged it up and started and charged normally. Not as it seems... Alternator would get hot pop the circuit breaker. Then the grid heater solenoid is stuck closed and still heating the grid heater. 95 Amp load will eat the batteries in a short order with no signs. Simply just unhook the grid heater leads at the driver side battery. Problem stopped. Auto Computer Specialist did good with me both times I've used them. They replaced my burned up PCM after my alternator shorted out and burned up the printed circuit board till it had a hole in the circuit board. Then I had sent in a 4th gen ECM for repair which they repaired the ECM but there was a wire issue on the truck preventing the ECM to boot up normally. ECM still works but the wiring is screwed on that truck.

That why you add a 150A circuit breaker to the charge lead on the passenger side. I've got mine hidden on the passenger side battery tray.

Smoke is just showing your.... Timing is most likely too retarded. Fuel is in excessive amount ot the amount of boost. Fuel map needs to start lower percentage. Now using the tunes I've got there is zero smoke from the exhaust pipe... But plenty of smoke from my rear tires. Making more power.

P1693 code is never alone... The P1693 code is a flag that lets you know there is a error on the other computer. So if the ECM is dumping codes and P1693 code is present then the PCM has the code(s). Visa Versa with the PCM reading codes and pop a P1693 it means there is more codes on the ECM. Yes you can have P1693 code twice meaning that both PCM and ECM are going to have errors.

I never use any silicone or sealants. Install just the way the manufacture did dry and clean. Torqued properly and even.

Quadzilla display of gear position is not a data thing from the transmission but just a math calculation from the roads speed and gear ratio you provide in Quadzilla. Quadzilla has a bunch of math it can do to the data to show a gear position.

RockAuto sells that clutch safety switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,clutch+pedal+position+/+starter+safety+switch,16665

No help here with smoke tunes... Smokey tune just shows that you really don't know how to tune properly. Dirty tunes do not produce more power.

Have the valve body modified for lock up in any gear. Problem solved. Temps will fall. The only reason it gets hot is climbing grades with torque converter unlocked.

This is a 24V article but the method is the same.

I'm also looking for one...