Mopar1973Man

Not really. Just need a good sense of touch. Just like installing injectors.

Personally I don't like the straw in the basket. There is the the thought of 1/2 or lower your keeping all the hot return fuel in the basket and very little cooling. Where the AirDog returns to the filler neck, the engine returns to the basket and the draw straw is no where near either. Hottest fuel temp I see typically is 135 to 140*F barely. Typically my IAT and Fuel Temp match. Being I've got 243k miles on the last VP44 not a bad setup. Fuel pressure: 14 to 20 PSI Dual fuel filters: 3 um on the AirDog, 7um in the stock can. Fuel temp: <140*F Wire tapped, 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar Injectors.

No. It will fail. The measurement has to be done on a empty tank. This will be the shortest distance to the tip. Diesel weighs 6.1 pounds per gallon which is 213 pounds of fuel. This will deflect the tank bottom downward giving more gap. As the fuel is consumed the tank bottom tightens to the tip allowing to draw all the fuel from the the tank. Large notches or making too much gap gives 1/4 tank issues... Tip needs to be tight to the bottom which getting empty to get all the fuel. One quarter coin gap, 1/16 notches... Less than 1 gallon left in the tank. Notice the notch still under the fuel.

Should come as a complete kit. Follow the directions on the straw and cutting. Do not customize or change the cut for performance. The tip should be as close to the tank bottom as possible. FASS suggest stacking two quarters on the bottom and that is your gap. I'm running on a SINGLE quarter gap for the all this time.

I tend to agree. There is no reason for over kill cable sizes. The stock size is going to be just fine too. If your worried about it then consider doing the the voltage drop test on the main cables and see if the cable is dropping more than 0.2 volts over the run. If it is I would replace the entire cable and maybe increase one gauge size.

FASS or an AirDog. In tank pump will need to removed and converted to a draw straw. You could do a mechanical belt driven pump too. Same thing in tank pump has to be converted too.

Local hardware store... Nothing difficult.

Risible links are buried in the loom. Check the alternator end for 12V. If the risible link is bad it will be zero volts. Field leads could be bad. If the + side shorts to ground it will blow the ECM voltage regulator.

Both on the main shaft. Both are wore out hence why the mainshaft moves and kicks out of gear.

Exactly what you'll do. Pull the clamp, slide the boot back, measure with calipers.

That is the only reason it will kick out of gear is the main shaft is moving fore and aft as you decelerate. During all my transmission work I ask for all the old parts during the rebuild. This way I can account for what work was done and see possibly the damaged parts. When I broke the mainshaft I had the same problem of kicking out of gear. Mainshaft was moving. When I ate 5th gear it worked fine. Shaft was solid not moving.

Should be no wiring mods to the APPS wiring. Either to the signal or ground legs period. Sensor ground is NOT body ground.

Caster angles could possibly affect the thrust angle of the truck slightly too. Might tire checking tire pressure and maybe do a tire rotation.

Bearing failure. The mainshaft to moving forward and backwards enough to pop the shift ring out of gear.

Could of been a nozzle that cracked. Pintle needle stuck open. In any case send them off to be pop tested is the right thing to do.

Typical sold as a pair.

You can tap the wire and tune back on Level 3 which is the same of turning off the wiretap.

Tire pressure?

Too cold. Need at least the 190F thermostat. I'm wanting to go back to a 200F thermostat as well. My last Gates was too wild I might try for a NAPA 200F...

Just send the module. The hydraulics stay.

Pull the Edge out of the circuit and reset your error codes. Go for a test drive if the code comes back the MAP sensor is bad. If not the the Edge boost fooler is bad.

Gov press sensor and gov press solenoid. Most likely a error code for it as well. Won't trip the CEL light.

How many miles on the injectors? What is the exact idle RPM? What is engine load in Park? Like I've seen another member that has zero engine load, idle is like 810 to 816. This is a true sign the injectors are tired.

Unit bearing the tone ring failed in the unit bearing. After replacing both bearings ABS went off.

Bigger the gauge less voltage lost in travel. This only counts most when you have long distance runs. Example the ground for the rear tail stuff are on the front fender. Now main cables count for high current flow like cold start mornings with high draw.