Mopar1973Man

350*F will shut off instantly in a drive thru condition.

Ummm... Working as designed... I checked all the backend setting and all are set for open forums and visible. Then check on my phone... Hamburger menu -> Forums -> Clubs

Yeah I've dealt with this issue with my landlord's truck. He runs to the salt flats for the event down there. Then ask me to change tires for him or do brake work. The hubs are badly rusted and takes a full size sledgehammer to free the tires from the hubs even the front hubs.

@Hawkez Amen brother... Amen!

This will fix that... Also replace your alternator the diodes are damaged!

Welcome to the family here... Ask any question I promise someone will help ya...

Small correction. Lvl 2 = Canbus fuel only to 100% and timing.

I've got the old school ball and spring with ZERO issues on pressure and fairly stable. Running a AirDog 165 pump on the AirDog 150 body no issues.

I would of opted for DOT4 vs Synthetic brake fluid. At least with DOT4 you can withstand more brake fluid temperature and few other bonuses. DOT5 is the extreme brake fluid with the highest boiling point for brake fluid. Most applications call for a DOT3 (401F dry/284F wet) or DOT4 (446F dry/311F wet) fluid, which is considered a higher performance fluid since it can handle more heat. While both fluids are glycol ether based, DOT4 contains a certain amount of borate ester which allows it to handle more heat. DOT5 is a silicone-based fluid that was developed for use where moisture or water was almost certain to be a factor in the braking system, such as military applications. While DOT5 has a higher boiling point (500F dry/356F wet) than DOT3 or DOT4, DOT5 exhibits more compressibility than glycol ether brake fluid. There are DOT4 fluids with boiling points that exceed DOT5 so there’s really no need to consider using DOT5 for on-road use. DOT3 and DOT 4 cannot be mixed with DOT5 fluid. They are incompatible and if mixed, brake failure may occur. Moreover, there are serious compatibility issues when using DOT5 in a system that was engineered to use DOT3 or DOT4. Also, users should take care not to mix DOT3 and DOT4 fluids as there may be brake system compatibility issues. Always consult your owners manual and use the type of fluid specified for your vehicle.

@Quadzilla Power All the downloads here are dated 2018 we could use a update here on the site... I'm wanting to update but there isn't any updates to download. Released February 7, 2018 -

I normally sert my EGT cool down to temperature and then set it for 350*F. This will shut off normally with city driving. Then if you highway then there is a few second delay but it will cool down and shutoff on its own.

Can't... If the WTS light is damaged or burnt out it will set a P0381 code. Being there is nothing said about P0381 code I would say the ECM is damaged.

All provided with the studs. 3 step torque. Final is 125 foot pounds.

W-T ground wire mod... This will fix that problem. Then here is the PCM protection fuse mod to protect your PCM from damage...

Yup.. Same here I did the head pull myself and freighted it to a machine shop in Caldwell, ID. Then he did his magic in about 3 days. The head studs and gaskets came from DAP. Even got checked for cracks.

Boost leak? I've seen boost leaks create all kinds of whistles, whines and noises...

Yes. Any dealer can flash it back to VIN factory software. Just only about 5% of the dealers and tech know much about the DRBIII tool and most have not been trained so, they just claim it can't be done because of lack of knowledge. If Smarty tuner can modify it then a dealer DRBIII can restore it too. To this day my local dealer says its impossible for high idle software to be flash on my ECM...

Low... Mine was just near $2,000 for valve guides, valve seals, lap the valves, etc. Deck the head, head gasket (Felpro) and ARP 425 studs.

Yeah I know I've changed a few of those and they are a PITA to do. Deleted truck are like the old school days for sure. Free revving the engine is not a valid test. The timing is too retard for a free revving event. You have to drive the truck to test.

Simple way to figure this out. Go to the taillights and pull the driver side tail light out and see what colors the backup light is. This color should travel back to the BCM for the control of the light.

Valve stem extension have left me with flat tires in the past I don't suggest them at all. Best off having the proper air chucks and tire pressure gauge. I've had objects push through and rip the hose, etc. Then have the clamp on style come loose and cut a tire.

VP44 is capable of minimum of 4,500 PSI at an idle to well over 20,000 PSI at WOT. If the VP44 PSG is damaged the the fuel pin will not be pulled enough to build pressure. Our VP44 pumps have 3 pistons working in a gang and pump at the same time to the distributor position its currently point at.

Dealer is fibbing... All you need is a DRBII tool and do a full flash. You can try another dealer than is experienced in re-flashing ECM's or you could contact one of the ECM rebuilders in our list. Auto Computer Specialist has been a good company to work with. That is my project for today I've got to fix a flash on a 6.7L Ram that is experiencing issues as well.

Remember increasing boost pressure will NOT increase power. Only increasing fuel will you increase power and boost both.

Our times are radically changing. Like us now I've got a new 50 inch TV here and just using Hulu and other internet providers feeds. Nice for entertainment now and then but as for information its way better to hunt the internet for the truth of whats going on. Even then the internet is a buzz on the surface with all the misinformation floating about. I don't really care for any of the new media being its all fake and misleading most of the time. But it nice to see what the next lie being fed to the sheeple out there.