Mopar1973Man

ECM appears to be damaged did you get a warranty?

Junk... Any washable filter is junk. That is DIRT that is on your finger and it is entering your engine wiping out the rings. Now take it all off and toss it in the trash. Go buy a BHAF. Problem solved.

Don't bother with Timken... Waste of money. I've been getting 180k to 200k+ miles from SKF unit bearing from NAPA.

Go to Dodge Dealer and spend the money for labor for a dealer tech to pull out DRBIII tool and measure the front axle speeds while driving. There is no cheap tools for the public Snap-on is expensive tool as well. Even my Innova tool won't do ABS on these trucks.

Still after 405k miles still using the factory style track bar. I would look at the tapered hole for damage. Typically get about 150k miles from a track bar. With your 3 inch lift could be causing your issues pulling on the track bar excessively.

INSIDE the bearing and un-repairable... You have to replace the unit bearing.

Yup @IBMobile is right on the BTU values... But I've got the last key though... Stock truck with stock ECM tune is going to be deeply retard in timing. With ECM running retarded then the timing is right on mark. Now someone like me that is tuned to petroluem fuel (summer) with lots of added timing is going to take a hit to MPG performance. Now if I keep my current winter tune in the summer (which is retarded per good) then it should work out just fine. Since my summer tune is about 21 to 22 degrees at 2,000 RPM's then it would be igniting too early. But a retarded tune would fix this and get you fairly close to right. Since Idaho fuel is petroleum based and about 30 to 40 cents cheaper not worth the trouble. Using ASTM testing labs cetane scale. Using Material data scales for diesel fuel information. Take note biodiesel is below the scales ability... 118k BTU's

When the score board is NAPA ZERO failure, and Cummins 3 failed (2 body splits and on fell apart) and Gate 1 failed (stuck open). Not good... Replaced another Cummins that slit apart again. (Robertshaw design).

I've tried a LG G3 phone, LG G4 Phone, LG G5 phone, and a Azpen Tablet. All had the same problem with the Quadzilla. Relocated the BT head into the cab still having connection issues.

Radiator has to come out first then the intercooler can be removed. The radiator lower neck won't pass IIRC.

You'll need the newer electronics in the cab. Most of that stuff is CANBus controlled. Like the fan speed switch is not like ours. It CANBus signal to the TIPM for control of the blower. Take note newer truck don't even have a relay for blower motor or the A/C compressor it's all controlled by the TIPM.

As long as your not venting oil your fine... Nothing is wrong the engine is in good condition. Little soot coming past the rings and good long drain periods can net clean oil for quite a while. Would be a good suggestion to wash out the intercooler so it doesn't cake up in time. Also consider rebuilding the turbo. Turbo rebuild kits are super cheap like 50 to 70 bucks and fairly easy to do.

NO TAPE or SEALANT the sensor needs a good ground contact. Tape or sealant will foul the signal or make it not read at all. Brass is typically self sealing. Passing though too. Is never use any sealant or tape on any oil fittings. The other problem is if any tape or sealant go into the oil system it could plug oil cooling jet(s) or mess up the bearings very quickly.

I've been researching the LED angle too for my 1996 Dodge. Trying to find a good quality LED bulb that holds a good pattern.

Use the trans temp sensor it will fit the test port on the filter head. Trans temp on mine is just below the coolant which is my oil temp.

My trips to Ontario and back home. I climb 3 grades roughly 6% on all three and then rolling hills the rest of the way. Highest elevation is 4,400 feet and drop down to 2100 feet roughly. So, yes you can. Scale the truck and then look at way so reduce weight and wind drag. Rotation mass and rotational resistance is the biggest ones to kill MPG. Wind drag is anything above 55 MPH you need to get more aerodynamic. Final gear ratio is optimal at 3.55 to 3.73 now I've got to ask what size tires are you running? Your running too much drag. Advance the timing should reduce boost. The trick I use is watch the oil temperature. If your tuned correctly your oil temp should always be lower than coolant. I'm now just tipping -30*F from coolant. So if the coolant is 192*F my oil temperature is barely 162*F on semi-flat ground and cruise set at 65 MPH even better yet 15*F outside. If you advance too far the oil temp will rise more. As you retard the oil temp will fall. This is due to over advancing will heat more of the cylinder wall and the coolant near the oil cooler this makes it tough to dump heat into coolant that is already heated. Matter of fact I've just changed my timing again and just about got it nailed. Start at 13, 17, 21, 25. This dropped just about 3* of oil temp. This is all based on what the cetane level is locally to you. As cetane goes UP (45-50) the timing must RETARD. As cetane goes DOWN (40) timing must ADVANCE. This is the basis for my high idle and MPG mode. HE351 and my Hybrid 35/40 are the same just about. HE351 is a 60/60/9 Hybrid 35/40 is a 60/60/12 Optimally you should be near 0 boost while rolling. I'm typically like 0 to 5 PSI for most all highway stuff. Interstate is more like 5 to 10 PSI. Hill climb 6% maybe 10 to 13 PSI.

No. Cummins and Mopar do not manufacture any thermostats. NAPA has been very solid for me. I replace more Cummins thermostats than NAPA.

No. Speedometer will be gone. You can unplug a front sensor to trip a code and disable the ABS.

Engine load is based on timing and drag. Turbo has nothing to do per se in engine load. My typical boost is only 2 to 4 PSI at 65 MPH. Timing is related to cetane of your fuel. Next one is drag lifts, leveling, oversized tires, etc will increase drag.

I would opt for 315 bar for those 7 x 0.009 injectors. Any shop can do pop testing.

Just a cheap NAPA 120 dollar radiator. I think it was a spectra radiator. My factory blew the rubber seal. Repairable.

Bearing will be fine most likely but the tone ring will have spun free and broke its spot welds.

B5 which most of Ontario runs. Like now I will not use biodiesel is too risky for gelling issues so I can run a new test in the late spring.

Start out typically at 305 or 300 bar. Bottom limit is 293 bar. By 260 bar engine load typically bottoms out 0 engine load. Hence why I started at 320 bar for economy and longevity reasons. Upper limit from the Dodge FSM is 327 bar.

Try again... 250 miles per day minimum. Idled in the garage this morning 20 minutes, then while I'm waiting today 4.5 hours ill be idling most of that time trying to stay warm. My day will be 13 hours long sitting in the driver seat. 3 days a week (TTS). Funny part only the Quad has issues. My Bluetooth headset work prefect, blue tooth speaker perfect, Bluetooth stereo no problems, Quad... 50/50 hit miss.