Mopar1973Man

The whole reason I'm an owner of a Dodge Cummins was an I lifted my 1972 Power Wagon and then added larger tires and wheels. Then I proceeded to eat the steering boxes, wheel bearings, and wheel joints. Didn't help that it was 4 wheel drum brakes either. I broke more stuff in that front axle than I did in the entire truck. I made I promise to myself I'd never do that again. I've held that promise now for very long time and still got zero issue with this truck. Funny how that happened.

243k miles on my last VP44. I'm at 362k miles now. 50k miles under warranty P0216 code lift pump failed no gauges. 243k miles and failed P0216 code stuck full advanced! Still clicking along.

Yes sir. Originally it was a 400 CID engine Dad sludged it up pretty badly. I had a custom 383 CID built bolted on a 727 Torqueflite 3 speed. I'm one of the few here that remembers the point tune kit. Book of matches. Sad to say that old school knowledge is no longer even used anymore. I tend to like the electronics realm of the 24V and above. There is way more to power to get out of the engine with tuning. Even with the old school 1996 I'm rocking 40 degrees of timing and nearly touching 18 MPG. I know the display below didn't fire this time.

ECM has no protection to the lift pump so if the pump locks up and the amperage rises sharply the ECM will fry. Kind of like I learned about the PCM field lead which my alternator shorted the field +12V to ground and the PCM fried internally. AirDog or FASS fuel system are a good idea. Then The W-T ground mod is another good idea.

Back in the 70's the odometer wheels where held in with a clip. You just took the cluster out. 2 screws on the speedometer. Popped the clip and spun the numbers where you wanted. Re-assembled. Took about an hour to do. Yeah, I lost 2 speedometers in my old 1973 Dodge Charger. I got really good at reset odometers back in the day. That car left my care at 336,xxx miles about 4 years ago. I grew up in the time of points and timing lights. Most of the pups here never had the fun of playing with a Mallory Dual Point Distributor.

I would get a live data tool and watch the ECT and IAT numbers. Both IAT and ECT should match on a cold morning start. Then IAT should run about +40F to the outside air during the summer. Being it winter time it might be closer to +60F over outside. Sorry, I don't know the offset amount for C (Metric).

Error codes? P0216 code will not trip the check engine light Fuel pressure? Optimal 14 to 20 PSI. 270km equals 167k miles. It possible you injectors are worn out. My factory injectors ran 150k miles and pop pressure was down way too low.

W-T ground wire mod done? Battery Condition? Alternator performance / AC noise?

Yes sir... Once the odometer goes to 999,999 it stays...

Throw @cajflynn in the pile then 1.3 million miles never rebuilt.

Way too many 2nd Gen out that are totally molested. Just look at FB groups...

@Dynamic is on the far side of the US from you. He happens to our website transmission guru. He would be able to tell you what you need and might be able to sell you a rebuild kit for your transmission.

I'm pleased with the KYB's I've installed on my truck nice ride and handling quite well.

If you looking for flow amount most like the lower pop pressures. Now if you are looking for economy you need higher pop pressures. Low pop pressure will flow more fuel over time but the droplets are larger and tend to create more black smoke. Now high pop pressures create better atomization but does reduce the flow amount over time. Not to mention high pop pressure means slightly retarded timing as well.

Known issue with Edge Comp. Most people just send them into Edge Products and let them replace the buttons.

Did my suggestion work?

Move up here... We'll change that quick.

I gather its the ball stud end. You'll need to heat and the strike the part of body around the tapper to hopefully shock and knock it loose.

SCR, DEF, EGR and all the alphabet smog junk is a joke.

I'll be the next to head down this trail. I going to do the 320-325 bar range but most likely jump to 7 x 0.010 injectors. I'm going to use my OEM stock injector bodies and have them nozzled up and jump in the game.

Even Auto's require throttle in cold weather on the first start to fire up.

So now remember the oil pressure sensor and/or MAP sensor failure can drag them both down. Do you have any errors currently?

That 1k ohm resistance needs to go away.