Mopar1973Man

My truck tends to be parked in an unheated garage but since there is plumbing in both garages the temperature typically stays just above freezing. When temperatures outside fall to ZERO then I consider using the block heater. Not to make the truck start easier. It's to heat the garage up slightly to keep the plumbing from freezing. The radiant heat from the block is not wasted then. Very very rare to see temperature here at the house that cold. Now New Meadows, ID yeah it very common to see at least -20*F. Coldest I've seen so far passing through is -30*F. Wild part, is within 1-hour drive the temperature rises again so head from New Meadows, ID to Council, ID and it will rise nearly 20 degrees or more. For guys parking outside and attempting to use a block heater is a pure waste when there is blowing cold wind around the engine and heat is wasted to the air outside. Even if you have a tarp shed to keep the wind off the truck will heat much better than heating in the wind. 750w engine heater isn't powerful enough to combat minus temperature weather.

Either G100 or G101...

Not a problem. Send it back to Nick he'll rebuild that easy. I just bought him 100 units of parts for building more.

Engine running backwards? Check the air filter for carbon that would be a sign of engine running backwards. Other than that the transmission needs to be rebuilt most likely.

Nozzle to small. The atomization is good with small nozzles. Its the big nozzles like +100 HP and above that need the higher pressures to make it atomize good. Still, you gain would be timing even with fresh OEM injectors. Let's say my ultimate highmark is 27.2 MPG hand math. I did this with an Edge Comp but the problem you had to drive seriously slow to get these kinds of numbers. The Edge Comp would lose big if the engine load rose above 20%. Coupled with my smaller tires I was able to pull it off. Now the Quadzilla I'm coming back I've already reached 21 MPG now. My tight schedule tends to make me push more on speed so. The big problem is I've got one good trip now I'm fighting to get my tune rebuilt for cetane change and colder air temps. I'm floating 18-19 MPG.

Just take your time you can do it without breaking it. I've done several old trucks now and very rarely do I break the dash. Mines got a few cracks in the dash but I've managed to pull the HVAC box twice.

OEM injectors should be set to 310 bar.

Thank you @Marcus2000monster... Awesome truck. Your giving me a reason to jump back into doing youtube videos again. Ill try to get a video of my truck.

Yes you can run the Quadzilla without damaging your pump. I ran Edge Comp for ten years and now the Quadzilla now. My last pump ran till 243k miles. 4 ways to kill a VP44.. 1. Low fuel pressure. 2. Poor filtration. 3. Excessive AC noise. 4. Poor publicity.

This is the old Carter pumps.

Yes, the input shaft is actually two pieces. The outer part is your steering and the inner part is the torsional spring for the power valve. As you turn one way or another the center torsional spring what controls the power valve. There is a pin at the top of the outer shaft that holds the inner shaft in. Then there is a o-ring inside the shaft too. Yeah, I've had a good long chat with Ryan @Blue-Top Steering I know many secrets to these steering boxes.

Exactly my point.

I've got to ask what in the world else was added to that ground in that manner? Where do the wires go to? Good question where is this ground connection at?

Strange part I've learned a long time ago... "Don't chase name brands." If you find something that works use it. It doesn't mean it will be there in the future. You never know what company might be bought out by another and then quality falls off again. Like everyone chasing Moog and they got bought out and quality fell off too. Just buy something that is going to work and go for it. So far we know that Spicer and Moog are no-no's.

I took my truck out for a ride and beat the trash out of it and still the lights and mirrors work. I guess I'll just have to wait again till they quit and maybe find the loose connection. It was wild how only 2 things on that one branch of the circuit would not function but the other two would work.

After having to dig through my truck attempting to fix the dome light and the power mirrors. I noticed the light socket was rather burned not melted but that darker burn mark from the heat of the old-school bulbs. I went out to superbrightleds.com and ordered me a new dome light blub and a pair of map light bulbs being winter is coming, daylight saving time will go away and it will be dark in the cab for morning and evening travel. It would be nice to have a bit more light and without burning up the sockets. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/921-led-bulb-15-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/910/11267/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/6774/ Let's see how these work out. They should be here by about the 20th of the month.

Nope both mobile and desktop version are missing you might want to visit the signature box and retype it.

No. The ECM assumes it still stock 235 HP injectors. This is why timing needs adjustment. The only thing that will advance timing is to have an excessive cold temperature for IAT sensor. Like I said when it's below +80*F the ECM jacks in another 4 degrees of advancement. When the IAT rises then the timing retards again. Like @pepsi71ocean told me about setting his injectors doe 320 bar really made a difference. This also changes the timing a bit too as you increase pop pressure it just slightly later than the injector fires but with bigger nozzles the quantity of fuel will flow faster into the cylinder versus stock nozzles.

I've got a full write up on it...

No don't bother. Just unplug the switch part and send it back to @Me78569. Nick got the parts pile and can solder in a new switch and just send it back to you. Just a few day both ways for mail. Stuff the switch in a flat rate mailer.

Could you get a picture of your High Idle Switch so we can see possibly what is broken? This why we built these on PCB because that makes it possible for us to replace the broken parts like switches fairly easy. Compared to the old Ed Grafton design which made it nearly impossible to repair. This way we can get your switch functional again at least that would help out in the MPG's.

If I want to do that all I got to do is get a tank of the B15 Biodiesel in Oregon and I could do that really easy. For some reason, Idaho petroleum diesel is treated very well for cloud point and pour point. Still to this day 356k miles and not used one anti-gel product nor had it gelled or freeze up. I'll admit I've seen lots of local kids with Daddy's Diesel truck and stealing a bit of the red dye from the ranch and end up gelled up on the highway. I've also seen the same thing where the fuel was froze up from the excessive amount of water. I've seen even a FASS 150 pump blowing fuses because the pump was a block of ice and so was the straw couldn't blow air into the tank. Most of this I see from long-term storage of fuel and trying to use the wrong grade of fuel at the wrong time. Just being too CHEAP and fussing over 2 to 5 cents for cheap fuel where the fuel station does NOT use water blocking filters. Yeah, I've done my homework and know which stations NOT to buy diesel from period.

If you can't get it started using the BC hot wire method the VP44 is done. Just wanted to be clear about what it takes to start sometimes being that some people might be giving up too easy and buying another VP44 and really didn't need it.

Now, this problem is gone. Not solved though. This morning the mirrors started working again and so did the dome light. Still never found the G304 ground. Something I've wiggled or push on made things work again.