Mopar1973Man

The orifice tube is plugged. When the compressor is replaced the orifice tuber and the accumulator have to be changed. If there is black death in the system you have to flush the entire system clean. You'll most likely go back and have everything replaced again.

Let's just say Dripley's abusing his truck a bit. Maybe that turkey baster is just enough to keep you from trouble. I still suggest purging the system and refreshing the system completely forcing all old fluid out and refill with fresh fluid.

Most people take a stainless steel pot scrubber and stuff it in the holes.

I still highly suggest you get it to a shop and aligned properly you'll find out that you might be close but they can get it closer to correct.

No. Because even at 5 quarts it pushes out the vent on an NV4500. If you don't mind the smell and the constant slop running down the case you fine to overfill but it just going to push it out the vent. I just barely overfill even to cover my temp sensor in the fill plug. NV4500 is only a 4-quart transmission. 50 SAE is only sold in 5-gallon pails. Compared to $27 a quart for the factory fuild I would $50 a gallon now for the 50 SAE fluid. 19k miles left to go to 100k miles. on this transmission. I change my fluid beginning of summer. It got a fluid life of about 50k miles to about 75k miles.

As I went down on the 1996 Dodge from 235's to 215's. My next move is dropping from 235's on the Cummins to 245's. When you go from 265's to 285's your lower your gear ratio adding strain to the driveline or trapping the torque in the driveline. If you want MPG number you have to go smaller. Looking cool cost money in the reduction of MPG's. If you got 3.55 ratio in the axle you basically made your final ratio 3.43 to the ground. If you got to 245/70 R17 your ratio would be 3.68 to the grounds. High ratio is better for getting the torque out to the ground.

Remember if you return to the basket or sump your pushing hot return fuel closest to the suction of the lift pump.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAA706035M Local store has 5 gallons pails in stock. Very common supplied fluid used in logging trucks. Commonly used in all over the road trucks Eaton Fuller transmissions.

Your a rare one of the fuel boss guys never install the check valves and the stock priming pump.

I say don't. There is a legal issue with sumps (not DOT legal for bottom draw tanks). Then the risk of hitting the sump and ruining the tank. Once you cut that hole you commited to tank replacement if anything should go wrong. Replacement fuel tanks are very hard to find. @015point9 the point out of the VP44 is tiny. There is no need to increase that line. Left is the return.

Fires have managed to travel from my place to nearly out to New Meadows along the ridge tops. It can be seen running below Pollock mountain tonight on the way home that is roughly 10 miles south of me.

Typical normal range can be as low as 13.2 VDC to as high as 14.8 VDC. Typically most will see close to 14 volts. The battery temp sensor will change the charge voltage also bad batteries with shorted plates will produce more heat so the charge voltage typically is lower.

Somehow the 4th gen truck and this OBDII research I personally think is going to be the next generation Quadzilla...

Answering machine at home is off. My voicemail on my cellphone is full. Now my WiFi number is really cool since its setup with Google Voice it sends me an email in text form of the entire phone call plus the phone number. The part I hard is a person calls 10 minutes of blah blah blah... Then at the very end run through there phone number extremely fast. You hear maybe 2 number. Now you got to play that message over and over again. I've wasted an entire hour to crap like that. Why typically I don't worry about voicemail or answering machines if you really want me you call again. My WiFi number is the only one that is really good about making text back with a readable phone number.

If you are really hard set on the alloy wheels or any aftermarket wheels make sure to get the right offset and width for your truck. My OEM alloy wheel failed the same way 3 wheels had multiple cracks in them which any crack is unsafe. This why I never opted fo factory alloy wheel again all them have the same issue with cracking. Then when I went to aftermarket I got the wrong offset and ended up with road slingers that slung all the mud and road salt on the side windows which made it unsafe t odrive on the interstate in a mere 10-20 miles you had to get off the highway to clean the side windows to even see. So I went back to the factory steel/chrome 16x7 proper offset and fit my 235's at the time perfect. Near future will be 245's.

Welcome to the family.

Basically a water tight tap point without the mess. No crappy scotch locks or weak connections.

Bingo. Sludge is really hard on pumps and will cause it to break to thick in viscosity small shaft can't handle the load. I'm going to have the oldest power steering pump that is OE.

No. ECM does a 50% duty cycle pulsing the power on and off. Heat soak is not an issue a long as you never see P0168 the the VP44 is overheated. Sounds like batteries, cables and/or starter is worn out.

Maybe debris bound it up?

Too high of cranking pressure. 7 to 12 PSI is normal for starting.

I went back to factory steel 16x7 wheels. I've been through 2 sets of alloy wheels.

Default tune is rather limited. You need to build your own tune or dive into the download area and get a tune. Either way most of our tunes don't smoke. My daily tune is defueled pretty good on the starting edge for the fuel map.

Make sure to still test the alternator because excessive AC noise can still damage the ECM all over again.

I know that feeling... Now it's just another day in the flames.