Mopar1973Man

Why chance it with used junk. Why not just get it rebuilt for $130... https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

ABS computer issues most likely? CCD network delivers the speed signal directly to the cluster. PCM is not the handler for speed signal.

That's a project I've got to do in the near future before winter hit and lube the slide pins and check the piston operation. I've replaced my rear calipers last winter because of a weeping brake fluid issue past the piston seals. Not to mention the rust really took hold on the rear calipers. Might have to check mine on the way home with a seat of the pants feel with my finger test for warmth or dragging issues. Might be a good idea with all the miles I put down.

Typically 45 to 48 cetane. Don't let the premium tag get you. Higher the cetane the lower the BTU content. 40 to 43 cetane has much more BTU's over the premium version.

You'll have to PM the author. Most likely they where on Photobucket and Photobucket shutdown their free access. Sorry...

No. Mine doesn't do that at all.

It can be crossover tube o-rings, return line leak, pressure line loose (leaks into the return rail), suction side leak of the lift pump.

Right out that article... http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/operation-diagnosis-and-repair-of-hydro-boost-power-assist-systems/

When you replaced the blower motor did you replace the blower resistor too? If the resistor is failing then the motor will start and stop randomly as the resistor heats and cools.

Just gotta be that voice in your head...

This why most performance add-ons do nothing for the performance like custom intake horn, and exhaust because the normal daily driver isn't going to flowing enough my make a huge difference.

(Cough) Quadzilla Adrenaline (cough)

Typically I won't do A/C recharging on cool or cold days. It throws off the entire pressures and volumes.

My average cruising boost is 2 to 3 psi. Then cruising EGT's 550 to 600 degrees. If you where to measure post turbo I'm going to bet it's about 100 to 150 degrees cooler. 65,000 miles a year and 90% of the time cruise is set a 65 MPH.

Or the glove box or under the hood.

What is your fuel pressure while cranking? Are you losing prime? Does it start easier if parked with nose downhill?

Loss of prime... The the lift pump is suppose to run 50% duty cycle during starting. Typically about 7 to 12 psi during cranking.

What us locals out here in Riggins Idaho call Guy tight. There was a guy name Guy Eggert nice friend of mine but he never used a torque wrench. Just broke out the 1/2 breaker bar and the cheater bar till either it was stripped out or broke the bolt in half. Me... Ill rather use a torque than guess. Even scrappy low budget torque wrench is better than guessing.

Try having the front end realigned? Possibly got the thrust angle goofy? Lift kits, leveling kits, oversized tires, etc.?

I can tell this between 13 years of 3-inch exhaust and now nearly 2 years of 4-inch diamond eye exhaust... The 4-inch is louder even with muffler installed. Then there was zero EGT difference and zero MPG difference. Made no performance impact. Being I hit my highest MPG on 3-inch exhaust.

Umm... We've got one in the classified ads.

Ummm... I'm in the same position. Web server admin so I get plenty of reading on Dodge Cummins stuff. Too much really... I've got a drooling issue most days.

245s would be better for the 4 speed automatics. Your OD is 0.68:1 vs 0.75:1 for my 5 speed in OD.

So you got the RWAL which is just going to guard the rear axle has no function on the front axle. ABS system doesn't care if the brakes are working or not it all based on speed signal and rate of change of the speed signals. In a nutshell as soon as the switch is closed for the brakes the ABS computer is monitoring the speed sensor(s) for a balanced change of speed. The only reason you would have any line issues is that your brake fluid has degraded from lack of fluid changes. As brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water from the air. As the moisture is absorbed by the brake fluid the boiling point falls quickly as well. Being water has oxygen in it then it has the ability to oxidize metal parts and degrade the rubber parts. This is why brake fluid turns dark to black in color.

Depends on the supporting mods. If you have a fairly stock engine I would suggest the single 62/68/12 turbo. Now if you got the ARP studs, possibly fire-ring head then twins would be a good place to jump to. Being you can tolerate the extra boost without much issues.