Mopar1973Man

Yeap... The new motor coming. Rebuilt. Seriously there are no replaceable parts in the motor according to Kyle. Basically get the entire motor as a package.

Polarized lens, YES. There is a clip on yellow for night driver that really helps too. Get them at Walmart or any drug store typically. OMG... Really? Just get over it and get your eyes checked and slap those lenses on you'll be much happier. I'm glad I got my eyes check my prescription changed ever so slightly but the new lens really does take the strain off the eyes. Between hours of computer and mobile phone work and all the driving, I was getting eye strain rather bad with a 10-year old prescription.

90% of all my failures now have happened close to home but one. Which was the wheel bearing failure in Boise, ID. As for the AirDog I didn't make it out of the driveway so I would have to say the failure happened at home.

Oh come now... You'll start putting stuff on the floor and bending over to read it then.

Remember just because there is no CEL doesn't mean there aren't codes stored. I would look into getting a OBDLink or similar and plugging it in and you can check both live data and error codes both. Remember error code are typically stored for 40 engine warm-up cycles. This means dropping below 140*F on cooldown and rising above 160*F. is one warm up cycle.

Agreed! That is stellar! I float about 15-19% in the rolling flatlands. (7 x 0.085) injectors.

Pureflow comes through. I've never filed a registration form with them but talked to Kyle and he was very helpful. I've got a brand new pump motor coming for FREE. He's going to honor the lifetime warranty that I would had if I filled out the warranty card. So in about 3-4 days I should see the new AirDog motor.

Damages... The pump seal gave up was pushing diesel fuel into the shaft bearing which is now wiped out. So here is the shaft bearing and it gone. So when the bearing started to fail last few weeks I've noticed the pump was louder than normal but pressure was good. Sorry for the fingers... Now the brushes are wiped out too. Overall appearance... Looks sad over 12 years of road grime... I was lucky and remembered I'd saved my AirDog label when I found it on the shop floor. It was tucked in a notebook.

After all these years of service my AirDog as of today blew the fuse and drop the fuel pressure to ZERO. ISSPro Gauge lit the low pressure light just as I drove out of the yard. I shut down the engine the truck bump the starter to see if the pump comes on. Nope. Get back in the yard and check the fuse. 20 amp fuse blew. With it in the shop now I replaced the fuse and just bumped the starter. The pump came on and sounded rather rough. Lasted about 60 second and went quiet with a snap under the hood. Fuse blew again. I've already call Pureflow to see if I can get parts and it might be difficult being the serial number tag fell off long ago. I'm going to see if I can repair my pump and get it going again.

You good. I was looking for the bigger 35 to 37 inch tires with 3.55 gear which creates a whole new problem. But you just fine the final ratio is good and high making the load on the engine really low.

Same here I've been wearing glass lens for so many years that glass does bother me one bit. I've been wearing glasses since 11 years old. I've even tried contacts and hated them. Always got dirty hands and digging in your eyes sucked. Back to glasses I went. Yeah, your right for two pairs is about $200 what I paid for my two. I will admit glass holds up the best from what I know. I figured for the price I'd give the poly a shot and see how they hold up. Next set will most likely be bifocals being my close range is getting rather thin. Dang I hate standing in the store and holding a box or can in your hand arm length to read the damn thing. I don't wanna get old!

Live data tool would be handy to see the engine load number and rail pressure. Any error codes?

If your tires were not so big you could. I tow all the time in 5th gear and never lost the 5th gear nut. Oversized tires do kill transmissions because of the excessive low final ratio. With 3.55 gear you should look into the 245's for a tire size that would get the final ratio right. Either that or regear to 4.10 gear so you can keep your larger tires. Looking cool comes at a price. 315/75 R16 (35") tires with 4.10 gear would give you a final ratio of 3.75:1. 285/75 R16 (33") tires with 3.55 gears would give you a final ratio of 3.42:1 rather low for towing. 245/75 R16 (30") tires with 3.55 gears would give you a final ratio of 3.69:1 ratio close to the 3.73 range. Optimal towing and highway runner. Skip the dry weight... Use the GVWR weight always! Like my Jayco claims a 6,588 pounds dry weight. (when pigs fly). GVWR is 8,500 pounds. Actual weight it typically around 8,000 pounds.

I hope not...

Could you post up your axle gear ratio and tire size. This plays a huge role in if you can control smoke and EGT's. Could you export you tune and upload it to the post as an attachment so we can look at your settings.

I would investigate the crank sensor. Dropping of tach signal can prevent starting also prevent the lift pump from firing up. Kind of hard to read the gauge if it's under the hood. You need to be able to see the gauge while cranking and driving for proper fuel pressure. So you might be looking at that crank sensor first. Here is the article on the code and how to test. Funny... AC noise possible too.

Might be worth looking into on the 96 Dodge and seeing if I can resolve that issue a bit more. (Sticking on release time).

Now if I can get some free time I want to do the mod too. Just seems like my time is always sucked up so fast. Ugh!

Close enough... Dave is right. The boost pressure is built up in the air intake system and when you drop off the throttle the drive pressure drops away from the turbine. So now the pressure attempts to leave the manifold the easiest way it can by blowing back out the mouth of the turbo. Since there is no drive pressure on the turbine the boost pressure can spin the shaft backward as the air rushing out the mouth of the turbo. This is harsh on the turbo and possible to break the turbine shaft. Not a Holset turbo but you get the point...

Actually, it's your tires. The 35" tires change your final gear ratio way too low in the 3.1x to 3.2x realm. This adds huge amount of load on the engine typically creates way more heat both coolant and EGT's. Now if the axles where regeared for 4.10 this topic wouldn't happen. Most people choke when they hear the price of regearing the axle to keep their pretty 35 to 37 inch tires. Fuzzy math. 35" tire with 3.55 gears in the axle has a final ratio of 3.14:1 Like on my truck I'm running 235's with 3.55 gears. Now if I switch over to 245/75 R16 that will change the final gear ratio to 3.7x or so. This would improve my torque output to the ground and allow more pulling power with more speed. Way too many people look at the cool factor but forget about the science of the gears. Tires are just a smooth gear and when you increase tire size you increase engine load because the gear ratio went too low. Optimal towing ratio is right at 3.73.

@Me78569 data log repository... That is one thing I will give Nick he was logging nut. He data logged everything he did.

I think it wild to see diesel power boats that just flat haul . I think its cool that the first boat was a 12V Cummins.

Another reason I hate warranty. It always seems to take long getting something fixed. Even a vehicle with warranty it seems to take forever to get through the channels and get the parts and work done. Like my warranty claim, VP44 at 50k miles took over 8 hours to be installed. Shop labor rate is 4 hours. Now today I can install VP44 in about 1.5 to 2 hours and be running the longest thing is getting the part shipped here. Funny tidbit an extended warranty company sent me a letter that I could get extended warranty on my truck for a price. Here what happened... I'll most likely continue to buy used RV's and used vehicles.

Drop your EGT's to about 1000-1100*F it will hang at about 205-208*F coolant. I got several steep grades here in Idaho and have no issues with cooling or engine temperature. Now if I was to push 1,200 to 1,250*F it can go to 220-225*F engine coolant temperature.