Mopar1973Man

I really can't comment on track bars much being I don't have all the issues you boys are having. 342k on the clock. Still only on my 3rd trackbar. This current one I'm not going to put much hope in. I was low on cash couldn't afford the NAPA track bar like last time so I bought an Autozone track bar for much less. No zerk on the ball end to grease it.

This is much better...

The only thing that I have seen happen on our turbos is the bearings get worn out and the oil weeps in on the compressor side. Beyond that then I would build a boost test cap for the mouth of the turbo and pressurize the system then look for boost leaks. If you losing to much boost the EGT's will rise out of control fast. Now if you have no boost & fuel management from like a tuner then you are going to be hung up with the limits of the ECM. Most of us are running a tuner like Edge or Quadzilla to manage boost and fuel at the bare minimum. Like myself, I'm running +75HP injectors, HX35/40 Hybrid turbo, and Quadzilla Adrenaline. I can turn down to just CANBus fuel (no wiretap) and I can floor it and never smoke or even get crazy hot. I'm going to be towing here in the next few days and I'll report the results. The short haul to town and back climbing the canyon I could kick that pig and never worry about EGT's. <- (Check out my garage look up my RV)

What are you looking at? I'm seeing $118 to 180 on RockAuto. Then NAPA at $180 to 220.

So far I'm been using NAPA supplied compressors with zero issues. Not only on Dodge truck but other cars and trucks too. Change the shim on the clutch you would have to have a clutch puller and the special tools to set it up.

I wonder if the power is hooked to the battery and rotted off? Another common issue.

ECM fuel pump control circuit failed. You'll have to have the ECM sent in and rebuilt.

That is the starting percent. Most of us start a zero. Unless you have stock injectors you might start higher.

@Ben you have get togethers too. Just hook up with members around you plan it out. Quite enjoyable meeting other people on the website.

If the clutch is spinning its engaged. If it's turning slowly the clutch is fried.

Should talk to @IBMobile his set up is way better than ATS.

We have those in our store.

Yeah and no. TPS is just a 3 pin sensor. APPS is a 6 pin sensor with idle validation switch. Things are handled a bit different from just a TPS.

Just above the VP44.

I would still use an OBDII reader and see if the code is still there on the ECM side. Typically if the APPS is going bad or out of range there would be P0121, P0122 or P0123 code. You can monitor the TPS signal with a live data tool and see if the signal it smooth or dropping out suddenly. Might test for AC noise issues from the alternator. Excessive AC noise does weird things.

Use a different code reader you can't have P1693 code without a second error code. If your using the key trick typically the 2001 only reports the PCM only. Hence why you are seeing only a P1693 code. This could be charging system issues, battery terminals/cable issues or starter with bad contacts or armature brushes. If its fuel related it could be air bubble or loss of prime. Dead pedal can be only two reasons typically bad APPS sensor (typically always a error code with it) or a failing VP44 (which may or may not have an error code). I would have to refer back to the error codes and what is present. Not really possible to skip a tooth on the gear. The only way that can happen is pull the front cover off and pull the gear out and turn in and replace the gear. It can't be lifted enough to spin the gear the lost time I checked. As for the pump did you line pu the key in the keyway and check the keyway with a mirror before you tighten the shaft nut? I've seen people crush the key in the gear and create a timing offset.

I've got to say thank you to @IBMobile and Jennifer for the wonderful dinner they brought us. They stopped in this evening and brought dinner, friendship, and great conversation. Again thank you both for the wonderful home-cooked meal. I would like to publicly announce that we have a new BoD member to the list. I know that one of our BoD is stepping down and @IBMobile will be replacing him. He's a welcome asset to the Mopar1973Man family being he's a knowable person and talented mechanic.

Basically its not the alternator but more like the grid heater. High current load for an excessive amount of time overheat the diodes. If you want to upgrade to 180 to 250 amp alternator to overcome the problem but comes at very high price tag. Upwards of 500 for alternator. So in my case I'm using a Autozone alternator now but left my grid heaters unhooked since December no issues to report. @W-T has a great ground wire mod that some report reducing the AC ripple noise.

I would test the alternator for excessive AC noise. When the batteries are weak like that it puts more stress on the alternator and diodes are known to get damaged from overheating. Now that the electrical load is reduced because the batteries are fresh the alternator AC noise will be less but the problem still remains. I would test it just for safety sake.

Here you go... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2000,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1361999,fuel+&amp;+air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB227091

@Raffron What year of truck? It's not in your signature...

The best man to talk to here is @Dynamic about the transmission.

Head over to the Quadzilla forum and hang around and ask question tunning information will come.

I'm going to aim for doing this mod soon myself and see what happens too.