Mopar1973Man

If I was in California I would take a rod and beat that piece of trash out. Then leave it as an empty can.

Dude... We all could have built your truck for you faster... Damn taking forever to build your truck.

Suggestion. Doing reloading with coolant. I typically leave the thermostat out and fill till the coolant just about ready to spill out. Then Install the thermostat. Not directed at you either... Just I've witnessed quite a few really "dumb moves" by people with diesel trucks. I tend to bring the worst cases to the table. I tend to be kept from saying "never" because there is always one out there dumb enough to reach for the stupid ring yet. Again not directed at you but just pointing out they are out there.

@AH64ID is right the 47RE is a 0.68 ratio in 4th. Compared to the manuals at 0.73 and 0.75 ratio. Exactly. You quickly find out the weakest link. Tall tires tend to trap torque in the driveline where the gear ratio is in hopes of releasing that torque to the tires but if the gears are of poor quality it might go SNAP!

Just pan over RockAuto there is so many brand name to work with Monroe, KYB, Mopar (OEM Replacement), Rancho, Gabriel, Bilstein...

I've got to ask what was the OEM engine that you replaced? If you did change years. You going to have to pull the cam from the old engine, the gear case and swap both.

California models had EGR valve and Catalytic converter.

Interesting...

Fine line... Like us, we enjoy the backcountry living which is typically quiet. Then one neighbor has to invite the entire neighborhood and bring out beer and booze and loud music... Then BOOM! I heard rumors of this neighbor possibly buying another piece of land and moving... Keeping my fingers crossed.

That is kinda flip flop topic there are times where the can be gain from the dropping a gear but there is most times it just plain wasteful running. Hard to explain. I understand what you saying excessively hold 4th for no good reason tend to be wasteful. Most of the gain s would be running 45 to 50 MPH on the old tire up Fort Hall. Above that you need to be in 5th again bounces back to traffic and road conditions. So far yes. Acceleration is way better. I can reach 4th as early as 30 MPH now no problem. Gear span is different with a bit better overlap compared to 235's / 265''s. Launching on 2nd gear is way easier on the clutch and just about leaps out there on its own. Even the 235's would do you fine. Same revs/mile. Like 235/85 (9 inches wide tire) R16 and 265/75 R16 (10-inch wide tire) are basically the same. Then 215/85 R16 (8 inch wide tire) is the same as 245/75 R16 (9 inch wide tire) My whole purpose is not for the cool factor but for any small gain I can get. Being the final ratio is so forgotten with all the big tire crazy and people don't pay attention to axle gearing then toss on 37" tire because it looks cool and wonders why they having issues. More I continue to drive this 250-mile lap course the more I understand about the road conditions I must travel. Being the entire trip from New Meadows to Ontario is all downhill that means the whole trip back is all uphill. Being you follow the Weiser River from New Meadows area all the way to Weiser ID. Since water doesn't run uphill that means the whole trip is downhill following the river. So understand that basic idea you need to have gearing that is suited for pulling that trip uphill and optimize the power for the engine. Now there is always that chance that this doesn't work out. Fine... I can just stick with 235's and continue. That why I'm running a pair of used tires on my old aluminum mags for the testing purpose. Nothing lost in the tires or anything. I'm hoping this gets to other that are considering larger tires to consider the gearing impacts of the current axle ratio and what the tires will produce for final ratio.

Some people blindly tow large loads with 37" tires with 3.42 gearing and hold their foot to the floor. No pyrometer. Seen this a few times where people are stopped along the road trying to cool down their truck. Like today here it just about reached 100*F and I know its even hotter in Riggins. Yeah, it does happen blindly assume the truck can handle the load with 37" tires. I've even seen a few burn down on Whitebird grade from this. Yes, it possible.

It's possible to have an electric fan clutch fail too. I've got 3rd Gen I've got to change fan clutch on really soon. Same kind of overheat issues as well. If I'm not mistaken the fan clutch is controlled from ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor so if the data is coming through and the gauge is showing it then I would have to think fan clutch next step.

No longer have too... The grade from Council, ID back to New Meadows some nights required 4th because of road conditions and traffic now I can pull in 5th and never downshift. That is one thing this tire change has really help with allowing the truck to stay in 5th longer. That's what I'm looking for in the next few tanks of fuel... I don't travel interstates any longer. Just back and forth New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR. No longer have the Boise run to deal with. That is also something I factored in was the average road speeds I run. Even though the speed limit is 55 MPH between Council to New Meadows I typically ran that road at 45 to 50 MPH get to watch for deer and animal bouncing up on the highway also like I said some days get stuck behind a trucker running slow with nowhere to pass for long stretch. Speed limits typically are 45, 55 and 65 MPH. Small towns: 25 MPH typically. The change on the lower end of the RPM seems very small. (Speed is off by -1 MPH so its actually 65 MPH as reported by my GPS)

Already done that too. 245's I've got right now are rated 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI Load Range E's You want to use Engine Load. Engine load is the amount of fuel being injected. EGT's are not a good way being just a small hill and EGT's could climb to 800*F but the engine load could be 20%. Then flatten back out and have EGT's now down to 550*F and engine load of 17%. I'm going to have to capture a few fresh screenshots.

This is the point of rotational mass. Guys that race knows you need to ditch parasitic losses down. Rotation weight is a key here. I know you can't run racing slicks on the highway but there are much better options that heavy M/T series 35" or 37" inch tire that is in the range of 120 pounds. I've done it years ago and weighed my 235's vs 265's and there was a 23-pound difference. I made it to 243k miles on my last VP44. I think ol' @dripley will beat my highmark soon. As for 2 cycle oil it's a dual bonus. 2 Cycle Oil is a natural cetane reducer or BTU increaser. As cetane goes down the BTU's rise. 2 Cycle Oil is a true lubricant where most diesel fuel additives if you pour a sample in a cup it will evaporate in a short time. Even though the product claim to be a lubricant.

Back to tires... Go to a tire shop that sells racing slicks. Now get a 295's tire and a racing slick and check out the weight difference. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html All the NASCAR racers can't be wrong...

Basically what it comes down to is reducing rolling resistance, rotational loss, and drag. More you lean towards the 3.73 ratio the lower the drag is on the vehicle. Like my design in tire is to put my cruise speed near 2k on the tach. Then you look at fuel chemistry and lower cetane has more BTU's. This is why the winter fuel drops MPG numbers and summer fuel rises. Then another secret colder the intake air the more it cranks up the timing. The ECM jump up about 3* more timing with IAT temps below 80*F. Hence where my MPG fooler design comes from it retards the timing back to summer values. Cold air is not MPG friendly. Optimally you want 100-140*F IAT temps for high MPG's. If you are running the Quadzilla you have to be aware of temperatures being the Quadzilla doesn't use either fuel temp or IAT temps at all. So you have to retard your timing map for hot days. Cold days you can advance it. Wind drag on our truck is pretty good. Lift kits and large tire place you higher in the wind and promote more wind drag and you have to drive slower to reduce that drag. Optimal in the past I found the best MPG in the 55 MPH realm. Just increasing to 65 MPH you've doubled your wind drag. If you looking for MPG you have to think about it like a race car. Reduce rotational mass and body weight on the truck.

Curious myself.

Yeah those don't look right. Ugh... I was hoping for the factory seat skins or covers.

Stupid neighbors... They started gathering up at around 5pm and played loud music till dark. The lit a bonfire with an explosive BOOM. Then proceeded to shot off commercial-grade fireworks till nearly midnight.

That's the foam how about the cover?

Could you post links to what you ordered. I'm curious.

Be aware there are places on this earth where solar is not optimal. Like here where I'm at in the dead of winter there is such a small window of direct sunlight that solar is worthless all winter. Remember indirect lighting (shaded) produces 75% to 90% less energy than direct sunlight on the solar panels. Then the more you keep moving north the shorter the daylight hours become. Being I'm living in a solar and hydro powered house I understand the limitations of solar. Now being I've been certified for extraction for the fire dept. There is a huge safety hazard to hybrid cars you MUST know exactly where you can and can't cut on the car for extraction. Then if the car is on fire they highly suggest leaving the car burn the battery is so darn toxic that its best to let it burn than having it leaking battery chemicals that are corrosive and hazardous. I remember read years ago that the Toyota Pirus is the MOST toxic vehicle in the world because of the batteries. http://www.electrocuted.com/2016/11/28/electrocution-hazards-electric-cars/

There is a big difference between Raptor and a Full AirDog. Now that I have done 250k miles on my first AirDog 150 now I got my replacement pump (warranty) and still going. Raptors don't have the return line back to the tank keeping fuel moving. Raptor return to the inlet port for regulation which can produce cavitation and air issues. Not to mention the adjustable regulator issues vs the old school spring and check ball like I've got.

For 3.55 axle gears optimal a 30-inch (3.69 final ratio to the ground) or 31-inch tire (3.55 final ratio to the ground) Other than that plan on the high price of axle gearing... Now if you had 4.10 gears in the axle then your 35-inch tires would have a final ratio of 3.69 to the ground. I know a friend that just was down this road he wanted to keep his 37-inch tires so he had to swap to 4.10 gear in both front and rear axle at a price around $4,000 for do both axles. Looking "Cool" does cost money to do it properly. Basically, you want your final ratio between 3.55 and 3.73 to the ground for MPG.