Mopar1973Man

High you go up with the main timing values the more this can go down because engine load will be reduced. Like I'm at 20% light throttle load limit and cruise at 65 MPH at about 15-17%. Holding this number too high will cause efficiency problems. This is all based on the max timing. I've been as high as 7* here. Now which base timing being pulled up this has to go down. 18, 21, 24, 27 so now add +3 to that. 21, 24, 27, 30 is my cruise timing. Since my max is 27 the cruise timing ends shortly after 2k on the tach and forced back to performance timing values. 27* is about all mine can do with bucking.

For daily driven truck there is no real reason for extending the RPM range. I would not suggest extending the range unless you have the supporting mods to handle the RPM.

United States Forest Circus... I've got no love for them and they are not "fire fighters". They are "Fire Managers" in other words they are not in the business of putting the fire out but allowing the fire to burn and manage where it burns at. After working with US Forest Circus for over 12 years and fighting fires. I watch how these clowns play with back fires and poor management to create bad fire seasons.

Yes. You can... I've got mine set for 30% so it takes 30% TPS or more to trigger wiretap. That allows for wider range of CANBus only fuel without tripping the wiretap. This depends on how much defuel is in your CANBus fueling. So if you in the throttle deeper its going to pull the TV cable more. You might have to add fuel to change the shift points. Might have to add in some retarding. Add another degree to the Max Load Timing Offset. Might be. Now what axle gears are you running and what size tires? This does matter. Typically starting your own thread get better support. Donation is not required, but suggested.

Delayed this repair other things have priority.

I can say without a doubt mothballs do not work. Dryer sheets don't work

This is because on the automatic transmission the cruise control still has to pull the TV cable so the vacuum method is required. On the manuals there is no other devices needing TPS movement. This why manual transmissions are fly by wire.

Where that wave washer/spring is mine had rusted into pieces. Seriously though. After all the years and 1/4 million miles. I'm not complaining one bit nor am I worried about exact hour specification of the motor and did it reach it or not. The mere fact it ran for 12 years and that mileage is awesome. I hate to say it but the AirDog pump motor lasted longer than the blower motor in the dash that is used even less.

Typically I keep my trucks in the garage. Then the main house here has an ultrasonic box point in the direction of the truck. Animals need a place to sleep at night but if there is constant noise they move on. The ultrasonic box I've got has quiet mode which is true ultrasonic and the noise mode that even you can hear which can be pretty loud. Typically leave them on ultrasonic. If I find signs then I step up to the low volume mix. Still seeing signs I go for the loud setting. Typically they move on. I hate using traps because you're baiting others animals into the bait. Poison works again baiting into the area again. Old school pellet bait seems to be gone which I'm happy for. Those tend to be packed off by pack rats and not eaten until way later. Do not work very fast. The new bait station is typically built for mice and larger rats can't enter the bait station. I like the block style stuff where you can tie wire the block under the hood for those parking outside.

Keep an eye on it. She might just fail again. It could be a loose wire or bad connection. I would at least invest in the crank sensor.

That's what we are here for to discuss these things and dispel myth and confusion.

7 x 0.007 I think is closer. Stock is 7 x 0.0063 if I remember the size correctly. 7x 0.0085 is +75 HP injector.

I went through 3 of Carter Lift pumps in 9 months at $200 a pop. I spent the $520 on the AirDog 150 12 years ago and now it finally wore the pump motor out after 12 years (250k miles). New pump motor on the way. Under warranty!

If there is no tach signal the ECM will not turn on the VP44.

Not good. This is why all pump manufactures have moved to relay protected power. This way the load is not place directly on the ECM. Now the excessive load has burned the lift pump circuit on the ECM. This is repairable but for a price of course. Excessive high lift pump pressure will prevent starting. Leave the pump off and then start the truck and then turn the pump on. Again the ECM does a 50% duty cycle during cranking to reduced lift pump pressure to about 7 to 12 PSI. This aid in starting. Again it would be a good idea to repair the ECM and then wire the lift pump with a protection relay like AirDog and FASS do. It's not about resistance. Here you want a live data tool and measure the TPS signal. It's about the voltage that the ECM sees and the ground triggers (IVS switches).

Economy in my area is going downhill. Riggin One Stop closed down about 2 or 3 month ago. Brown Market is the other one in New Meadows, ID getting rather well, ran down looking. Dirt parking lot. Cheap tin sign out front with Ethanol Free fuel which is only the 91 octane which is the highest price. I've had good connection with the owners of Chevron in Riggins and know their product is clean and pump filters are changed on a standard basis. Still Ethanol fuel but very low amount. Now Maverik in Friutland, ID last time I looked was like 3.4x a gallon for clear gas. Not bad. Now Maverik I've got some faith in for clear gas fuel but sad part is you have to come all way down here for a fair price. Now be aware of some clear gas and its octane rating too. Like Maverik is 87 octane for clear gas. I've tried it in my 1996 Dodge which failed big time. Way to much pre-ignition issues. Now switch back to 91 octane ethanol no problem. Just a heads up.

Nice... I wish I could have a nice truck like that again.

LOL... The list is out of date. Riggins is closed. Never sold ethanol free fuel as far as I know. Then the one in New Meadows I don't trust. Again flaky Mom and pop store. Price is higher than McCall.

Personally, I think you are being just a bit paranoid. Tach need may bounce because of the signal. So if the cluster gets a message that RPM is 810 RPM this second then next second its 790 RPM now the stepper motor in the tech is going to step down. Then if it rises again then it will step back up again. Mine does the same thing but I don't sweat it. Quadzilla tach can jump 10-20 RPM in one second causing the jump. Remember the Smarty will not program the tire size permanently. So when you return to stock the tire setting is lost. This is why I suggested the dealer. Then it can be permanent.

Not available near me. The closest is McCall, ID and they are high for ethanol free fuel. Now in Payette, ID isn't too bad. Your suppose to use biofuels they are much better for the environment... Personally, I wish the whole biofuel craze would stop completely and go back to go old fashioned refined crude oil.

Like myself my VP44 went 243k miles and failed. Then a year later my AirDog 150 the motor died at 250k miles. I'm not complaining one bit. 12 years of service out of both.

Man, that is a long wait to get a truck built. With a box of tools we could all built it by now.

This is one of the few reason I'm not a fan of Smarty S03. The Smarty was designed around stock injectors and not stacking. Now with the extra fuel you'll need more timing. As @Me78569 documented in the logs you really can adjust the timing very much. Here is where the Smarty Touch would fill the void but for the price for just a 60 HP tuner it way better to look towards a Quadzilla.

Just ohm test from the ECM to the MAP and check for 0 ohms. If so the wiring is fine. One wire is ground, one wire is signal and the last one is +5V. So you can test for good 5V and ground at the plug. Beyond that, it means either the Quadzilla is to blame or the MAP sensor. Anywhere you want. I kind of build upside down looking at my cruise timing I want first. The built the performance curve from that offset. Then deepen the performance side by using the load timing offset. So this allows for fairly high-performance timing but allows you to cruise under light performance loads and get enough retarding to build boost. Rather hard to explain... If you want you can call me some time I can explain how this is done.

Typically used super unleaded from the local Chevron. Then usually broke out the 2 cycle oil in the back of my truck and mixed some SuperTech at 40 to 50:1 ratio. Rather be slightly oil rich than too lean. That how I killed my very first saw ran too lean in oil and seized the conrod on the crank.