Mopar1973Man

Way better than my old Edge Comp.

Has no bearing on the issue. IAT and MAP doesn't control fueling or throttle at all. Might only if the signal is bouncing but you never mention that. So I doubt it. Yes because I'm always aware of thing. Like during my month inspection I spend at least one hour on a creeper and inspecting the entire underside of the truck looking up at stuff the most won't even see from opening the hood. Then when I'm doing an oil change I'm testing my alternator with a DVM for excessive AC noise so I'm aware of the diode health. Knowing this is an issue being I've lost 5 alternators in 2 years I know I've not found the cause of the alternator failure yet. The only way to damage a PCM, ECM or VP44 modules is with an alternator with bad diodes. You can't see this kind of damage. You have to take the alternator apart. Here is another example. Just not our trucks... Just not Dodge even Ford and Chevy have these issues.

Don't do it. Just replace it with a Timbo APPS. There is nothing to clean. ECM issues. You can verify this with a live data tool and monitor the TPS signal. If the signal jumps then the APPS to blame if the signal is steady then the ECM is to blame. Still at that rate test the alternator for AC noise.

Cam gears are different as in the tone rings. The early 24V had only a single tooth tone wheel on the outer edge. Where the later series 24V had a multi-tooth tone wheel inward on the hub of the cam gear. The cam gear and the gear case are different because the location of the cam sensor is in the wrong location. Versus... Two different animals.

Yes. I've done it plenty of times when alternator failed badly so instead of taking AC noise damage to the electronics I shut down the alternator by unplugging the field lead and continued home on just the batteries. Typically you'll find out all the weird issues go away because now you are on "TRUE DC" power once again. The computers all start work perfect. The cause I'm finding is the grid heaters that kill the alternator diodes. I'm not clear on why yet but research the solution to this whole AC noise issue.

Typical AC noise problem. Next time this happens pull the field plug on the back of the alternator if the problem goes away when the alternator is NOT charging then the alternator diodes have failed. What you post is a classic AC noise issue where the AC noise corrupts the tach signal the ECM varies the throttle up and down back the ECM is seeing the two waveforms. The dash cluster won't report it or show it on the tach but its happening.

Now that I've returned to the wiretapped crowd now I can see the difference between CANBus only o Wiretap. Of course, the power is way better tapped but I want to find out if I can reach higher like I've done in the past. All those years of the Edge Comp of running in the 20's MPG bracket were great. Hopefully, now I can do the same being I've got fresh injectors and 1 year broke in VP44 injection pump. Sad I doubt I'll get much MPG for the next couple of tanks. I'm like a kid with his first NOx bottle on a drag car. The "Go Baby Go" button is always being pressed.

@KATOOM I just spent the last year no wiretap with my Quadzilla and +75HP injectors. I fought to even reach 1,200*F EGT's. I can hold the throttle to the floor going up 6-7% grades and never reach 1,200*F EGT's. It would do you lot of good to look towards a tuner that allowed for timing control. I don't see a tuner on your signature for timing control. Stock ECM is going to be pretty retarded and create a lot of EGT heat. Then with the 285's tires that just making the rear axle ratio lower and adding more drag to the engine making more heat. I will admit now that I've tapped the VP44 again it really easy to tip 1,400*F EGT's but if I'm plan on towing I'll just drop to Level 3 I keep the timing on the Quadzilla but drop the wiretap completely then I'm back to super low EGT's. No blankets required. Just timing...

DAP I managed to spend more than $100 being I order the valve spring compressor and the plate together.

Somedays I wonder...

Ugh... I'll stay in Idaho where registration is MUCH MUCH cheaper. Even Truck plates rated for 20,000# (IIRC) is still under $100.00

With the HX35/40 Hybrid and the +75HP I'm able to light the tires up in 4th gear again. When the wiretap hits the boost snaps to 45 PSI and the tires just break loose. I got a good scratch going in town launch hard in 2nd it don't take much to break them loose. I've forgotten what this kind of power is like. It's wonderful once again to be back in the ~400 HP realm again.

If you got a dealer near you may try to have the ECM reflashed to see if that helps. Typically this a Smarty thing where people see P0602 error codes because the Smarty alters the ECM information. Since your not using a Smarty and the Edge Comp doesn't alter the ECM programming this means it took damage some how. The most common damage source is bad alternators. Typically people with Automatics tend to get the torque converter lock and unlock issue but wrap tin foil on the charge leads, add a noise filter to the PCM or add or relocate ground wires. Again this never fixed the problem just band aid the problem. So now the noise issue goes on to wipe out the ECM and VP44's. Even manuals like my truck have the AC noise issue but from what I'm learning is the grid heaters cause the failure of the alternator diodes which creates the AC noise issue.

Yes and no. The first 10 years of my truck have been totally trouble free never had an alternator issue ever. Then now I can't keep an alternator longer than 4 months with the grid heaters hooked up. As long as the grid heaters are disconnected the alternators don't seem to have issues. So I'm betting that the grid heaters are increasing amperage draw as they age. That is the only theory I've got right now. I disconnected my grid heaters in December when I lost my last alternator at 4 months of age. No issues to report. Still only in the 0.030 range for AC noise.

Not good. Just because all the wire colors are the same doesn't mean they had the same purpose. You are going to have to trace all the wires one by one and their purpose. I've seen other brands and makes of vehicles do this where colors seem to be the same and wire a device up and find out the wire colors are all wrong.

These truck aren't bad. I look at mine with 15 years of age and 338k miles on the clock and still got all the electronics working just fine. It, when people ignore warning signs like the torque converter lockup and then toil foil and modify the electrical attempting to shield the power, leads from AC noise come to find out the alternator is the cause. I'm now on the path of figuring out the cause of alternator failures which actually stems from the grid heaters. So the computers have nothing to do with it. It the fact the Dodge did a crappy job of wiring the truck and used a under par alternator for such heavy load like the grid heaters. So if you want to blame something blame the alternators, Dodge and the grid heaters that is what is creating the problems.

Ok here is the difference between the 10 year old plate and the new plate. The new plate has a nut to back up the jam nut on top. That was an issue with my old plate if I was to over tighten the jam nut it would pull the tap screw out of the plastic. Now installing... You need to remove the intake air horn and the APPS sensor to get enough access to the cover plate of the VP44. Using the supplied security TORX bit remove the 5 screws/bolts. Do take notice there is two types of security TORX screws there is the 5 point like what you see in my VP44. There is also the 6 point which some other rebuild have been known to use. Be aware of the type of screw. Now lift the aluminum cover off the pump. Now be careful and make sure the rubber seals are still on the VP44. there is one small rubber seal that came up on my plate stuck. Just make sure to put it back in place. Now place your plate on top and re-install your 5 TORX bolts/screws again. Then start your tapping Alllen screw in the supplied hole. Grab a test light and hook it up to the negative post of the battery and turn your ignition key on. As you tightening the Allen tap screw watch for the test light to come on. Then according to BD Diesel you add another 1/2 turn I cut that down to 1/4 turn. Make sure to turn the ignition key OFF before continuing. Now BD Diesel supplies the jam nut for the Allen. Assembly your tap wire with the supplied crimps. Note: Check your crimp on your tuner before installing the blade crimp. Mine was a slightly different style and had to be changed out. Place the Tap wire on the stud now. Carefully thread the nut on the stud and the hold the using a Allen wrench hold the placement of the tap screw while you tighten the nut firmly. Now turn your key on once more and test your tap point. Now reassembly your APPS sensor and intake horn. Hook up your Quadzilla Tap lead and go for test drive. At this point I was so excited to finally have my Quadzilla tapped into the VP44 again I didn't check my wire tap settings on my tunes. Needless to say as the Quadzilla release to tune mode and I laid on the throttle deep it rolled SERIOUSLY black cloud. Yeap it's working but once I pulled over and adjusted my tunes properly I got it down to just a faint haze. It pulled like a scalded ape now. I'll upload my tunes here shortly. For the first time in a year I had to turn ON the EGT limit and the boost limit again. I'm loving it...

I've got a hunch that the engine has been swapped and the Cam Gear / ECM is wrong. Kind of a classic sign.

By chance did you replace an engine?

I've got a aftermarket stereo (Kenwood MP3 player) so the panel light lead was left open so I took it over to the gauges. Some use the ashtray light.

Some is running Smarty Tuner? P0602 is a give away for ECM flash tuner. If you are not using a Smarty or similar tuner then your most likely going towards a failing ECM. If this is true then I would test for excessive AC noise issues.

My warranty should be over or nearly over for my VP44. Time to return back to wire tap tuning again. There is a reason why I'm not re-using my old Stealth Plate. I'll show you the difference in my next post. I bought my first Stealth Plate back in 2007 that is 10 years ago and several updates have been done to the old original plate I bought 10 years ago.

Let's say an Edge Comp (5x5) and Smarty (Sw Lvl:9) is enough to slip a stock clutch.

Sorry... Quadzilla doesn't have those functions. I think they need to update there site. @Quadzilla Power and @Quadzilla_Stephen Tagging so they will be aware of this.

I've seen one case where a transmission shop installed a voltage regulator for the transmission wrong. Instead of tapping the power wire they cut it to the PCM which caused all kinds of weird issues. I know modified transmission typically have either a resistor or a voltage regulator install for the governor pressure sensor.