Mopar1973Man

The best I can do...

In the summer time I'll step over into Ontario, OR and get B5 diesel its about 20 cents more a gallon but it pays for not using any 2 cycle oil. During the winter time I been staying to strictly Idaho diesel which is good old petroleum based no bio. Biodiesel has a problem of separating out as it cools and the bio part sinks to the bottom and turns like old bacon fat in the bottom of the tank. There is no product that can handle the gelled biodiesel.

Topside creeper...

Bingo. So if the boost is rising over 18-19 PSI the defuel kicks in and it falls on its face. It will set a code after about 22 PSI of boost. The power is lost. With a boost fooler you should be able to reach about 25-30 PSI without much issue. I guess the Quadzilla is coming sooner eh?

I should take a picture of my toolbox full of sockets. The two red box were my old toolboxes that a gave away to a friend but the tools all went into the black Husky. I'll have to shot a picture of the top of the box. I love this toolbox it just tall enough that I can roll it over to the front of a truck and sit on the radiator support.

In theory they should. Depending on what tuner your running and what the fuel and timing map is like then how about boost fooling. Just a bad tune can make things feel weak and not as powerful.

Grid heater logic is based on IAT and battery temperature. Strange but true I've seen it many many times where the IAT (fooled) is 143*F and the ECT is 190*F. In all theory there shouldn't be any grid heaters. This is partially true. The preheat is not present but the post heat is based on the battery temperature so even though the IAT is 143*F and ECT is >190*F you'll still get post heat because battery temperature is low. Where the break point is battery temperature I'm not sure but let assume 60*F outside. So this means if you start the engine and idle excessively like was doing where I'd sit in a parking lot waiting for MoparMom and getting cold in the cab I would fire up and get heat going again. So the grid heaters would bang away even with high idle going because the truck never moved and the battery temperature is low. Eventually the diodes overheat and "Presto" I've now got AC noise issue. Still in all I'm still having a hard time with this because all the years I've done this in the past and left the truck to warm up and 10 years gone by without an issue. Still leads me to the draw of the grid heaters are getting more as they age.

Normal that is how it regulates power from the alternator by controlling the gorund leg and vary ground voltage amount. I'm going to bet your Alternator fuse is blown or cracked. Remove the two 8mm bolts in the fuse and test it with a ohm meter.

6 Speed doesn't have the 5th gear nut problem. But parts are MUCH higher in price since NV5600 are not produced anymore. Now as for the NV4500 transmission there are more common place and use in both the Chevy and Dodge trucks and there is plenty of parts and upgrades being the NV4500 was used for many years. You have to remember New Venture went out of business. After 124 years, on Thursday, August 24, 2012, New Process Gear (New Venture) ended production and closed their doors for the last time. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Venture_Gear

That means there is a wiring issue with the bulbs your using. Something is back feeding on the high beam leg. LED light is polarity sensitive be sure you are set up right. The headlight bulbs are backward to what you may think. The what you would think is a ground or common terminal in the bulb is actually the +12V and the hi / lo legs of the bulb are ground legs. Where the fog lights are normal hook up like you are use too.

C3 is the bottom most in the diagram. Starting from the A/C clutch relay down. VSS is in the C2 plug. C3 the big thing is the CCD network. Since the source of the network starts at the PCM. I would have to say its a CCD network issue.

I've got a 1" ratchet in my toolbox. I typically use the handle off my old floor jack for a cheater for leverage. Last unit bearing change on my truck I used my 1" ratchet and that floor jack handle to pull the very same nut. Needless to say the ratchet handle now got a curve to it now.

That storm dropped nearly a foot of snow here in one storm alone. I've been hired out yesterday for plowing driveways. Then last night I was hired out again for the same people to get there driveway opened up this morning. Hence why I'm up so early pouring coffee in me and get ready to saddle up on my iron horse.

They did this back in the 70's going from locking hubs to solid axles and all the time 4WD. Then back to locking hubs. Solid axle have been the best design so far even back in the 70's. Less mechanical failure. Any design with a locking axle or hubs tends have a weak point.

Better image...

I've got a later series axle and it solid on my 2002 Dodge. Now my 1996 Dodge is a CAD axle. Some people love the CAD axle because you can make it 2WD LO for parking trailers. Personally, I've had nothing but problems with CAD axles. Solid axles just always work and never fail you.

I must be the weird one. Only two track bars replaced in 335k miles. They do hold up but the biggest factor is tires and tire size.

Slammed back to back winter storms. Piling up fast out here. I've been hired out 3 different times to plow driveways for people. My own driveway is done twice a day when I'm home. Crazy storm is really putting the white stuff down.

Never been a big fan of Optilube personally because of the cetane booster typically used.

I come armed and with cash. I'll even bring "Diesel" for guard duty while I'm digging through your junk.

No. I pour approximately 1/2 quart for half hank a tank of fuel. Suggested is 128:1 ratio of 1 ounce of oil for every 1 gallon of fuel.

This is not normal. Cetane booster tend to add soot to the injectors. 2 Cycle Oil you might try it. I'm going to bet my 80k miles injectors are cleaner that your 2 year injectors.

For me, anything above 32*F is warm and that jeans and tee shirt weather. Now between 0*F and 32*F is cold requires a good heavy coat. Below zero is plain frigid and dangerous survival at these temperatures is very short if out in the weather. Add wind to that you talking serious life threating problem. @Marcus2000monster It's all good. We both live in the cold country. That one of the reasons I don't carry a bunch of spare parts in the truck and tools. I carry food, water, blankets, extra clothing, gloves, etc. My own survival is more important than trying to fix the truck. The truck can be towed to safety. As for MoparMom and me, our lives are much more important.

You need to unplug the pump. Bump the starter. Measure the voltage at the plug. If 12V is present everything is fine with the ECM and the lift pump is junk. If 0V is at the plug you just lost the ECM lift pump circuit. Also, the lift pump is junk too which caused the ECM failure.