Mopar1973Man

Small problem how do you keep the AC noise from bleeding over into speed signal devices like speedometer and tachometer signals like this video shows? Still you come back to fixing the source of the AC noise. The failed diodes in the alternator.

That will reduce ripple of a good alternator. Still will not do any good if a diode pack on the alternator is failing.

The biggest thing I'm learning is most people are doing thing backwards. IAT optimally should be above 80*F and below 140*F. Cold air will crank up an excessive amount of timing. Most Fuel economy tunes are heavy timing advancement but since I can see your signature at this point I'm not sure what I'm working with tuner wise. Injector pop pressure is a factor MPG number there is quite a bit of study happening right now and experimenting with pop pressures as high as 365 Bar when stock is 310 bar. I would get your signature filled out and we will dig into this more.

I'll do the update in the morning.

I'll just take the NV4500 for a spare... Don't have a 47RE to give up.

No, Microsoft has to quit deactivating my copy of Windows. I own the damn copy but no... They think I'm hacking it and hijacking there code. Not even true. I LEGALLY own Windows Vista Ultimate and Windows 7 Home. Every time I turn around Microsoft tells me it no longer activated. Stupid Microsoft...

So the file is up to date? Good ol' logic statements to catch you off guard...

If I'm not mistaken the old generators of the past where a permanent magnet style generator which had no voltage control but made clean DC power. Voltage regulation was crude at best because of the switching style regulators used. AC styled alternators became popular because of better voltage regulation and could produce more power over the old school generators of the past. Voltage regulation still to this day is a variable field armature. A lot of people are right though. The biggest problem is the factory alternator is too small really for these truck and should be bigger like @W-T mentions. The only problem most of us don't have the deep pockets to buy these alternators or don't know any better and buy reman'ed alternators. A larger alternator would cure the problem but if you can't do the alternator then tha means you gotta cut the load.

Sad to say the rolling with high idle still continues. The ramp up works it's a bit milder and not a violent thump like before. I got to the end the driveway and rowed gears without ever touching the throttle. No amount of speed will cancel this. Then I came back home for about 0.1 mile drive so it still cold. Checking my fog lamps aim and it started back up on high idle like it should. Tap the throttle and it let go and proceeded to park in the garage. Just as I was backing in the high idle jump up again good thing I good with a clutch that could get ugly for someone. I got into the garage tap the throttle TWICE it would not return to a normal idle remained on high idle. So I shut the key off and tapped the throttle and it died like it should. So be aware there is throttle cancel issue now and also rolling and not canceling.

I guess I know what I'm doing and setting up my VirtualBox so I can flash the update...

This is for sure a bug I'm able to repeat consistently. If I wait the 30 seconds to engage the Quadzilla high idle which it slams fairly violent to 1,200 RPM. After Quadzilla starts high idle I can put the transmission in gear either forward or reverse and let out the clutch. Speed is shown on both the Quadzilla and the dash cluster and the Quadzilla is not canceling high idle.

FYI... The actual Smarty support site is SmartyResource.com. They also do VIN unlock and recovery files as well. https://smartyresource.com/support/

Most likely not for AC noise. You would have to have something that measures less than 1 volt AC. Highly doubt you'll find a AC volt gauge that sensitive.

No. Still the point is the full wave diode bridge is supposed to do that in the first place. In other words, you need to find a way to prevent overheating the diodes in the first place. The biggest killer is starting the truck up and let it idle to warm up and allow the grid heater to continue to bang on the alternator at idle. There is not enough RPM to keep the alternator cool nor is there enough charging current to handle the grid heaters. So like in the mean time I'm leaving the grid heater unhooked because of the amount of time I've got to fire back up just to get heat in the cab while I wait for @MoparMom to complete dialysis. I'm going to figure out a better solution for the grid heaters hopefully to keep error codes from showing and keep the function of the grid heater when needed. Thinking out loud. Basically, a person needs is a relay to control the ground side of the solenoid triggers but a switch that toggles in a preset resistance for the ECM to see so error codes are not present. So when the grid heaters are disabled the ECM sees a preset resistance load that it thinks is the solenoids. Kind of works similar to the Mopar1973Man High Idle Kit. No. Because you would have 50% of the sinewave still coming through. So you would end up having a full wave rectifier again in front of the failed one choking the flow again. Still come back to replacing the damaged diode pack and preventing them from overheating. 1 diode will only take care of positive side of the side wave or the negative side so at least two diodes would be needed but now you blocking the DC also. http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html

@W-T did an awesome job on that one post. I had about another 2-hour conversation with him on the phone last night. Awesome guy. Man the amount of weird crap and abuse I've seen to vehicles is unreal. When I walked into that Dodge dealer back in 2002 to purchase my truck I realized I was going to spend 32,000 on a truck and I want that truck to last like all the other vehicles I owned. Now everytime I open someone else hood it's like "OMG!" just about every time. Very Very rare to see another truck in as good shape as my own. I do see it but rarely. Prime example was JAG1 when I installed his injection pump and IBMobile was the other very clean and well taken care of trucks.

There is always another choice of using test leads and probes to access plugs and sockets.

Something is wrong with that ECM it shouldn't be enabling high idle unless the IAT is under +15*F. Any error codes?

We've got an ECM/PCM rebuilder list we are building. There is another member heading out for a rebuild a ECM as well.

Basically you want to get to the step where you unplug the VP44 and hook power only to the pump and then attempt to start. I will suggest to not cut any wiring... Some members like @dripley cut some wires and things have not been right since.

Another valid case of overwhelming the torque converter clutch and the clutch not capable of holding the power.

Send it into a rebuilder to be tested or go to a dealer and gamble that the tech knows what to do.

ECM is starting to fail too. This is a sign of excessive AC noise did its damage from the alternator.

This comes back to your 330 bar setup that you seem to like so much. Makes sense now. Being starting quality is good and smoke reduction is good too.

Even with my old modular mags and slight outward offset I got tired of every 40 miles of cleaning the side window glass because I could not see to do a lane change on the interstate. So I have to roll down my windows just so I could see the mirror.

Remember stock injectors are 310 Bar. I think I'm at 300 bar now on the 7 x 0.0085 now.