Mopar1973Man

You've got the old school basket. I think its the left tube. You should be able to follow the tube from the filter toward the injection pump.

Maybe that why I did NOT get the High Line model with an overhead idiot, heated seats, power seats, security key fob, steering wheel stereo controls, etc. I got the basic model. Power windows and door locks was the only bonus.

Actually its speed sensors. Like the transmission speed sensor which get corrupted by the AC noise. APPS sensor doesn't care about the AC noise really its just a 5V signal. Now things like the speed sensors that are hall effect sensors that create a AC sine wave then you inject a second AC sawtooth wave from the alternator now things get stupid fast. APPS sensor will fail from excess AC noise because of the logic chip can't handle the AC noise and fails. This why Timbo's APPS is the best solution being there is no electronics in the Timbo APPS. There is an internet myth about APPS voltage and voltage adjustment then APPS sensor grounding etc. These don't fix anything and actually create more problems best to not do any of these mods!

With the Quadzilla you don't have to be a rocket scientist to make a good tune. The biggest thing is to learn what good timing is. Basically, good timing is something that produces the lowest engine load (commanded fuel) to hold set speed. 90% of us are going to tune for a daily driver. There is a small percentage of us that will build tunes for track and dynos. Something that still rings in my mind is as you advance timing you move the torque curve up in RPM. As you retard timing you bring the torque curve back down in RPM's. So there is a balance of advancing and retarding timing and find what works for your truck and your modifications. Another factor is bigger injectors need more advanced timing to provide enough time for the fuel to ignite being typically the droplets are larger. Now with @Me78569 study on pop pressures on injectors, this changes the rules again. A lot of study and information being tossed around about tuning...

Now that is funny...

Cancel that it seemed to load just slow to respond back. Yeah there is no notification of the process of importing is complete so you sit there staring at the display. Then cycle out to the display and back in the tune is present. Ok... Another suggestion... Is there any way to get iquad to remember your last display setting. In other words go back to the display type you used last. I like the second one but everytime I fire the app up it back to the first screen.

Crap. I'm screwed. Now I got the update which I was wondering Google play didn't have any updates to give. Then tried the M73M site sure enough its a newer version. Now I'm screwed because all my tunes are 2.5 version so they will not import. No 2.5 version listed either. Time to start all over again.

It's a dealer only thing. You would have to program the fob for that vehicle. You can't just trade fob and expect it to work. They must be programmed by a DRBIII tool which the dealer has. Other than then any Dodge owner would be able to steal your truck. No. Then every thief would just pull a fuse to disarm your truck...

I've got a Raptor pump sitting on my shelf I can tell you that pump motor will shed most of its heat into the air. Very little into the fuel because of how the pump is designed. Yes I've taken it apart to see what failed. This particular pump had the shaft seal failure that flooded the motor with diesel fuel. Being the Raptop motor is the very same motor used on a AirDog I'm 99% sure there is going to be little heat convection to the fuel. Second off to get a motor hot you would have to load it up to draw serious amp draw. I doubt if these pumps draw even 10 amps. More amp drawing on the lectrical system the more heat created. Since voltage is pretty stable at 13.5 to 14.5 typically the only thing that will change watts (heat) is amps. The only way to have amps is excessive loading... watts = volts x amps

Theory... C1 basically is killing the power to the PCM. So I've got to ask do you have a security key fob? Basically the ECM has to ask for permission to fire up and see if the security fob is armed or disarmed.

It there a way to keep the truck running while the iQuad finishes initializing on the mobile device? Rather annoyance to me. Like today hopped in the truck and drove 15 miles to town no problem. Now I've got to stop at the bank, grocery store and the fuel station. I start at the bank shut down. Start up drive less than a 0.1 a mile to the fuel station. Shut down realise the iquad was in the middle of loading up and crash because I shut down the truck. Now I've got to restart the app again. Ok now drive another 0.1 of a mile to the grocery store again the iQuad was in the middle of loading up and crashed again. Ok time to go home restart and get the iQuad fired up... Now it work fine all the way home because of the long drive. Is there a way to hold the engine running for at least 5-10 seconds till after the iQuad get done loading the tune?

@Buzzinhalfdozen You've got me beat. That some serious snow!

Check the fuses? Most likely the power valve is damaged in the steering gearbox. There is a pin that holds the power valve but it most likely loose or broken.

Please that's easy. Your dog would have troubles here.

There would be a P1492 or P1493 for failed battery temp sensor. Not likely. The voltage band is 13.2 to 14.8 volts. So as the temperature goes up the voltage goes down. As the temperature goes down the voltage goes up. This can be verified by checking the charging voltage. If it's over 14.8 volts then there is an issue. A overcharged battery becomes gassy and stinks like sulfur. Not to mention the battery is prone to constant reloading of water because of the overcharging condition so battery lifespan is greatly reduced.

True, I won't argue that... That I've got a hard time believing, being the fuel doesn't come in contact with the pump motor at all. The pump motor is completely isolated from the fuel. Now the old Stock Carter yes this would be true because the motor is actually part of the bypass circuit for pressure regulation.

Basically since my AirDog returns more fuel to the tank than actually delivers this means that the fuel is polished by the AirDog making several passes through the filter. The other part is since I'm running a old school draw straw when the pump actual does suck in air and lose prime that air bubble is not passed on to the engine. Being I do use my truck in offroad conditions and slooshing fuel is common and picking up air is also common. The part I'm not worried about is the fine air that AirDog and FASS pride their selves on. That is why I would agree on @jlbayes comment but at the same time disagree about it too because there is other bonuses that performance guys don't look at that longevity guys do look at.

Oregon is mandated to provide B5 biodiesel minimum. So all Oregon pumps typically show they are Biodiesel but as for the amount its unknown it could be up to 20% biodiesel. Idaho is still a petroleum diesel state rare to fine Biodiesel stations in the state.

The best I can do...

In the summer time I'll step over into Ontario, OR and get B5 diesel its about 20 cents more a gallon but it pays for not using any 2 cycle oil. During the winter time I been staying to strictly Idaho diesel which is good old petroleum based no bio. Biodiesel has a problem of separating out as it cools and the bio part sinks to the bottom and turns like old bacon fat in the bottom of the tank. There is no product that can handle the gelled biodiesel.

Topside creeper...

Bingo. So if the boost is rising over 18-19 PSI the defuel kicks in and it falls on its face. It will set a code after about 22 PSI of boost. The power is lost. With a boost fooler you should be able to reach about 25-30 PSI without much issue. I guess the Quadzilla is coming sooner eh?

I should take a picture of my toolbox full of sockets. The two red box were my old toolboxes that a gave away to a friend but the tools all went into the black Husky. I'll have to shot a picture of the top of the box. I love this toolbox it just tall enough that I can roll it over to the front of a truck and sit on the radiator support.

In theory they should. Depending on what tuner your running and what the fuel and timing map is like then how about boost fooling. Just a bad tune can make things feel weak and not as powerful.

Grid heater logic is based on IAT and battery temperature. Strange but true I've seen it many many times where the IAT (fooled) is 143*F and the ECT is 190*F. In all theory there shouldn't be any grid heaters. This is partially true. The preheat is not present but the post heat is based on the battery temperature so even though the IAT is 143*F and ECT is >190*F you'll still get post heat because battery temperature is low. Where the break point is battery temperature I'm not sure but let assume 60*F outside. So this means if you start the engine and idle excessively like was doing where I'd sit in a parking lot waiting for MoparMom and getting cold in the cab I would fire up and get heat going again. So the grid heaters would bang away even with high idle going because the truck never moved and the battery temperature is low. Eventually the diodes overheat and "Presto" I've now got AC noise issue. Still in all I'm still having a hard time with this because all the years I've done this in the past and left the truck to warm up and 10 years gone by without an issue. Still leads me to the draw of the grid heaters are getting more as they age.