Mopar1973Man

Should look up asbestos and see the history and what it's currently used in it might shock you.

As for the Quadzilla there is just theories running right now on how to make proper tunes. I can say without a doubt excessive advancement will degrade MPG and performance. You can actually move the torque where you want. Basically in a nutshell retard timing brings the torque curve to lower RPM's, advancing will move the curve upwards in RPM. Still in all the default setting are not bad to start from but I will warn that advancing timing you have to watch your engine load as you get to high you notice engine load is higher this is a sign of negative torque. In other words the fuel is firing before you made TDC so it pulls power away (torquing the wrong way - negative torque).

Dave is right...

Change this to 40 PSI. Drop this to 15* Increase to 30%

No relay. Wiring diagram is above. Like I said it most likely a bad fuse. Headlight fuses are in the PDC under the hood. The dimmer switch is before the headlight switch and the headlight switch is the last item heading for ground. Red is positive and black is ground. That simple. +12V -> Fuse -> Headlight Bulb <- Dimmer Switch <- Headlight switch <- Ground

Blown fuse.

Not normal. If the old filter was a K&N it may be normal. But any oil residue must be washed off the compressor wheel. Being its spinning very high RPM's a little goop in the compressor could offset the balance of the compressor wheel. Kind of like having mud in the inside of a wheel it will offset the balance. Possibly a cracked exhaust manifold? Loose valve lash? Educated guessing here...

You have CCD network issues and a dying injection pump. Your definitions are not correct. P1693 is just flag. Nothing more.

@Quadzilla Power, @Me78569 and @Quadzilla_Stephen I'll bring the boys to you.

That's a heck of a Woody.

So what does it do in Idaho?

Subzero temps no. Positive temps yes.

Only thing about LED lights is the snow piles up on the lens quick. No heat to keep them clean.

I've got the same problem but I typically hook up my mechanical gauge for test like these to get around the ZERO out problem. I'm running a ISSPro EV2 gauges.

You might take a peek over at the Quadzilla forum and peek in on the different topics. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/ I'm also part of the BETA tester for Quadzilla I will admit clearly the Quadzilla beats the Edge Juice easy! Tunning is better control, timing control, less wiring in the cab (just 1 wire for the Quad).

Fuel pressure seem good. Was it low at all during cranking like ZERO then snap up to pressure that would be a sign of air issues.

If it was me I would replace all those rubber joints with fresh vacuum hose. Problem will be solved.

Be better off on the Adrenaline easy to tune than the XZT. You can control your low boost fuel number precisely.

Two questions... 1. Error Codes any present? Use OBDII code reader. 2. Fuel Pressure? What were the numbers like?

Personally I would like to have a full on and off switch so A/C can either turned on in any position or forced OFF and any position. Some times you would like to drive through an area of heavy smoke or dust and want to keep your heat going so you'd flip over to MAX A/C now the outside air is turned off but the A/C compressor is running. Kind of like you like to run DEF or floor DEF without the compressor coming on. Like in the morning before the engine is warmed up so you get super cooled air.

NV4500 are very common fair priced. NV5600 are bit more expensive and bit more rare so the core prices are typically higher. Like from Six States in Boise the core on my NV4500 was nearly 3,000. So be aware rare part typically have high core prices.

Only way to really test a VP44 is to replace it. Cost nearly the same price to send a VP44 to be benched test being it takes about 3 hours on the Bosch 815 test stand to bench one pump out.

This is why my design came to be because it resolves all the issues. Freezup and blowing the mains problem which the drop down extension have been known to do. Resolves the crankcase smell in the cab. It resolves the spill problem for hard braking and 4WD operation.

While you are there pull your radiator out and power wash both side of it.

That's my spring time project for my truck my valve seal are leaking now and give me a nice blue smoke cloud on start up.