Mopar1973Man

I remember an article long time ago for my Honda Goldwing where silicate coolants would damage the water pump seal and cause the water pump to weep out the hole. As for me I've been using WalMart SuperTech or Prestone Coolant mixed 50/50 before loading the engine. Like I'm going to be due for a coolant change soon being all the miles I've racked up. Still no coolant leaks on my truck or water pump issues.

Did you ever try the ever expensive Cummins water pump?

Did you do the testing for the P0122 code? Funny part is if there was a broken wire I really doubt you'd be able to drive the truck at all.

Wouldn't hurt my feeling if it died tomorrow.

Still haven't killed my OEM water pump yet. 322k miles and counting...

High Megapixel pictures tend to fail. If there are scaled down then they typically upload fine. What it is the site attempts to take your uploaded photo and process it down to 1024x1024 to keep photos from eating up the storage space fast. Photo are getting so large now the server chokes on the large files and kick the error message. Even my cell phone does the same thing.

You have to build a custom PID for your gauge. So you would go under setting and build the custom PID for the OBDLink. Basically fill in the blanks with the information.

Now in stock and I've got plenty here. Now got a resolution to the AC noise problems for the Dodge Cummins Torque Converter problems.

Because it gives all the wiring diagnostics and explains the limits of each type of error. In the same time you could verify your wiring and know if there is any wiring issues that might be there too. Also might give you clues to isolating the issue at hand.

Remember the OBDLink will read a weird boost number. Like mine starts at 28.6 PSIa and goes to 37.7 PSIa. So it not going to help you figure out what's happening. Even my ScanGauge II does this very same problem. Thing is you should never exceed 20 PSI period. Edge start boost fooling as low as 14 PSI. If the ECM is seeing above 20 PSI it will start to defuel as well. The P0234 code is typically tripped after about 23-25 PSI. The only thing I could suggest is reading over the error codes P0234, P0236, P0237 and P0238...

Doesn't report a readable value...

I've mentioned that too...

Far better off to use a live data tool that can see boost and watch to see what the MAP sensor is doing. Randomly buying sensors rarely does any good. Best to have some sort of test data to prove the sensor failure.

I'm just as baffled. If there is 12V present on the tap wire and the if boost signal is correct and not out of rane then there is no reason why the tuner shouldn't work. The only thing else is the CANBus port but I've got no idea how to test for that one. There isn't much to a tuner. All 65 HP tuners use the CANbus for data. All tuners larger than 65 HP use the CANBus and the wire tap. Then the power is based off of boost pressure seen but the MAP sensor and then fooled to the ECM to prevent over boost codes or defueling.

Yes sir. Actually the data for the boost is not over the OBDII port for the Edge it comes from the CANBus under the hood. But we are going to use the OBDII port to monitor the boost value with a live data tool. The problem is that Edge Juice gets it power from the OBDII power so it has to remain connected. One of the few pleasure I like about Quadzilla there is nothing in the cab but 1 wire. Everything is kept under the hood.

Just need a live data tool and OBDII splitter cable. Monitor the boost signal and see if the boost rises above 20 PSI. If it does then the boost fooler on the Edge Juice is defective and the ECM is taking over and defueling to prevent a P0234 code.

No controls on the Edge EZ. No fuel to boost management. Also the older EZ's where known for issues with water leaking in and corroding the circuit board. Boost fooler malifunction?

If you got to reset the APPS you have an AC noise issue. The only time you should have to do that is if you unhook the battery. If your constantly doing it you have a AC noise issue which is fouling the data saved on the ECM. Good bet stock injectors don't flow much fuel just stepping up to RV275 will typically start to smoke a bit without a tuner.

Something to try... Edge Bug - Make sure to adjust all sublevels the same. So go back through each main level and adjust the sublevel to be the same across the board. So if your hot unlock level 6 is set for sublevel 5 then make sure all sublevels are set to 5. So what can have like on my Edge Comp Main Level 4 with a sublevel of 1 can pull main level 5 with a sublevel of 5 down to act like a sublevel 1.

End that goes in the module... I want to be sure the module can see the 12V from the injection pump.

Test your wire tap voltage. You should see 12V on the wire with the Juice Module unplugged. This is with key on and engine off course. Yes it will trip codes because the MAP is unplugged.

You have to drive at least 10 miles and be completely warmed up to verify codes that may return.

Erase all codes and start again.

Just added that to the Acronym Database so now DVM and DVOM will show as dotted underline when hovering over the full definition shows.

Little secret... Warm up speed is based on how much EGT's you can produce. So normal 800 RPM idle will produce 250*F roughly. High idle on 6 cylinders will bare reach over 300*F. Now if you to use the Cummins high idle software and use 3 cylinder high idle you can push upwards into the 600*F range. Now add an exhaust brake 6 cylinder is like 600*F EGT and 3 cylinder is 900-1000*F EGT's. This extreme amount of EGT's can heat an engine from -25*F to over 170*F coolant temperature in under 10 minutes. Exhaust brake and 6 cylinder is roughly less than 15 minutes from -25*F. 6 Cylinder high idle no exhaust brake can be still a long 30 minutes from sub zero. This is not suggested or advise for long idle times warming up. Should be kept as short as possible. Hence where the design of my high idle kit came from. This is another reason I don't like remote starts. You should be starting gain enough heat to make it safe to drive (visibility clearing ice) but get rolling ASAP. You should never really idle till full warmed it a waste of fuel. I've measured 1-2 gallon consumed just to warm up 1 start cycle from bone cold to fully warmed. High idle can consume as high as 10-12 GPH of diesel.This decreases as engine temp rises. Just for a point of reference, 20 MPG @ 55 MPH is roughly 2.75 GPH.