Mopar1973Man

Personally... I would do... 4" Exhaust BHAF Quadzilla Adrenaline RV275 injectors As for the exhaust to this day, I'm still running 3" exhaust after 310k miles and never had a EGT's issues with all the stuff I tow. 4" will not drop EGT's very much if at all for typical highway driving. BHAF is the best filter option we've got for these trucks way better than any washable filter on the market. Avoid the K&N, AFe, and S&B filters not worth it. RV275 injectors I ran before and was capable of reaching 25-27 MPG. The reason for the Quadzilla over any other module is not for the HP/TQ. It about the ability to directly control timing. Quadzilla is the only solution that allows you to tune in real time. If you don't like your settings you can change your tune and bluetooth the changes to the Quadzilla instantly without the need of a PC like Smarty. The other factor is that Quadzilla gives you the ability to build fueling tables based on boost keeping the smoke at near zero amounts. Edge EZ, Edge Comp, and Edge Juice all have the same problem with lack of timing control and require you to run the highest level for the most aggressive timing. Then have limited to zero control of fuel versus boost for controlling smoke. Smarty is the most expensive solution HP per dollar. I'm not exactly impressed with Smarty being that its only a 60 HP tuner but at the price of $865. That is $14.41 per horsepower. Quadzilla Adrenaline $743 but you are getting 3 times the horsepower at the price $4.13 per horsepower. Quadzilla is a way easier solution for newbies for tuning and can be done without a PC or laptop where Smarty does require Windows PC for all programming.

Basically pull the blower motor. Then cover the floor with plastic. Then using a garden hose with good pressure keep working till the water run clear. What happens is the evaporator sweats, then dust is turned to mud. Then it dries into a dirt clod. You only be able to work on one side and only the center of the evaporator.

Best to remove the entire HVAC box and power wash the evaporator. Attempting to clean the evaporator in the cab is weak at best. Ive done a few cleaning through the dan hole but you really cant do it very well in the HVAC case.

I hate to admit it... I spent 700 on a set of Morimoto D2S HIDs. All I can say is these are top notch headlights compared to the sport headlights I just replaced. Now I didnt have to do all the heating and removal of the lens. I found a site called http://shop.retroshop.us that sells complete HID solutions fully assembled. All you got to is install and wire it up. They are even aimed and pretested before shipping.

Actually the needle valve is just a fall back shut off. Its just nice to be able quickly twist the valve shut. ISSPro EV2 gauges typically do a test sweep so seeing pressure rise is impossible.

Don't feel bad... My hood has been open more too but I'm also rolling 750 miles a week and getting ready to cross 311k miles.

If it trips again double check your MAP sensor plugs. Then if it trips again then you need to consider having the Edge Comp sent in for warranty work or service. The boost fooler is having issues.

I've got black jacket hose from Eric from Vulcan Permance.

As long as rhe jacket is black yor fine. Blue jacket line typically is petro only.

Yes. B2 diesel scored around 220 HFRR compared to 474 HFRR at 200:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Lower is better. Only problem is biodiesel is typical high in cetane which makes it lower in BTU content.

No more thatln a 1/8 of a turn.

Head over the article section and you'll find articles on A/C recharging. Ive been doing it now for about 5 years.

Thank you @dieselautopower for coming over here and handling this thread...

I would avoid the Biodiesel in the winter time. The problem is there is no anti-gel product for biodiesel so when the temperatures get cold enough the bio part will separate from the diesel and sink to the bottom and turn solid. I've been using B5 over in Oregon now for the week which is about 10 cents higher than Idaho petroleum diesel but when you figure paying for 2 cycle oil it just about washes out. Now as for MPG of B5 biodiesel there is no measurable gain I've seen yet using biodiesel. Being I'm traveling a minimum of 250 miles trip to Ontario, OR. Which comes out to 750 miles a week, 3,000 miles a month. So I've got plenty of road time testing biodiesel I've even switched back to Idaho petroleum diesel a few tanks and no real change in MPG's.

Buy the line yourself and replace it. If you had the vacuum pump and the manifold gauge set you could do the rest of the job recharging the system.

Talk to Peter at South Bend Clutch...

Here is my truck and RV on a trip pad scale.

10:27 MST it's 80*F here as well.

UPDATE: Flashed... Be testing on the way down... UPDATE: I've got the flash done. Quick test drive but weather is not hot yet. Studder seems less but we'll see by the time I reach Ontario at 100+*F weather today. Also the crashing seems to be gone now. I'll see what happens on future start ups.

I know the truth of the Oregon weather being I'm on the east side every other day and seeing 100-110*F temps in the cab of the truck sitting in the shade of a pine tree waiting for @MoparMom . Yeah it's been hot in Ontario, Oregon. Like yesterday it was over 105*F in McCall, Idaho. It was cooler down in Pollock, Idaho where I was doing the clutch job. As for RV A/C I'm trying to get some help from friends in Parma, ID so I've got a place to drag the RV for the eclipse event. The land owner (Gary) is going to rig me up a RV 30 Amp plug for my RV. I know that its going to hot as hell down there. I know my A/C will hold up but the best it can do is about 75-78*F inside on a 100-105*F day. This is only a single unit RV. Not bad...

Personally, I would want to see the company web page, warranty documentation, etc. Then call and interview the company. BEFORE even considering dealing with an EBay page. Way too many times I've seen people stung by BS EBay pages and companies that fly by night. If a company is real and serious they should have their own web page and full disclosure of products, services, etc.

The shop is OK. Too small in my book. The two post lift is in the wrong placement on the floor and the vehicle can't be brought in far enough so you can get out of the truck without squeezing past the door jammed again the lift post. Very poorly setup. Then with the truck on the floor you can barely walk in front of it and no way to way behind it jammed again the door. So it looks impressive but poorly setup. As for the ceramic clutches I'm totally shocked so many people are listening to the wrong hype on the market. "Oh, you gotta buy a ceramic clutch it will not slip one bit." This is true but it sure mills the pressure plate and flywheel down to nothing. Just like I'll never use ceramic brake pads because of the same reason you end up eating the rotors before the pads.

I float around 7,400 to 7,600 depending on cargo and passengers. I hit the scales maybe twice a year.

Here I am again changing another ceramic clutch today. Nice to do it at the owner's house and he's got a two post lift. But the same problem clutch friction material is in good shape but the flywheel and the pressure plate are gone. No hotspots. This clutch barely made 40k miles and was slipping. Owner install just a stock rate clutch and called it good.

I'll do this in the morning and try it for the trip down...