Mopar1973Man

I got a job that a 2001 Dodge was having lock up issues typically. Now the owner had the BD noise filter, the APPS wiring mod and ground mods. Still in all the truck ran with a surge and dropping of power. The old alternator I measured at 0.1 to nearly 0.2 volts AC. He replaced the alternator I measured today and its right about 0.04 to 0.05 marginal. Still the loss of power and surging. The owner has a Bank's tuner on so I opted to removing the MAP leads and return to stock and the Wire Tap. Went for a test drive and the problem is gone. Moral of this post is alternator noise can do damage to even 3rd party device like tuners.

I'm running a Jacobs brake (Sold by Dodge) but they are no longer sold. So I would suggest a PacBrake for you.

Path... /Internal Storage/Android/data/com.quadzillapower.iQuad/cache This is where exports are stored. So you need to export it to something like Email to get it on the directory.

Disconnect the field lead on the alternator and see if the problem goes away. If so the alternator is bad...

Would be better to put an exhaust brake on and then you rarely touch the brake pedal. I service my brakes every 180-190k miles now with stock 16" wheels and stock OEM calipers. Exhaust brake has no technical wear and will extend the brake life quite a bit even with city driving. @portlandareae28 you might not know this but I drive to Boise every other day for @MoparMom to get dialysis. So I'm in Boise traffic every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Exhaust brake works wonderfully in reducing brake wear. Labor book calls for 4 hours to R&R a VP44. I typically now do then in 1.5 hours without thinking.

Be careful there is a lot of wannabes electrical hacks out there that think they have all the answer on how to create better electrical. ECM, PCM and VP44 all get there ground from the passenger side battery negative terminal. As for the VP44 power that is the fuel pump relay in the PDC if there was a problem power wise it will throw a P1689 code. Since the code is not present I would have to say most likely not true. As for the P0216 there is nothing you can do to fix it and the VP44 is going to have to be replaced. I've now lost my second VP44 to P0216 codes. The first one last 50k miles (under warranty). The second one went 243k miles and the finally died last month. P0382 your grid heater solenoid is either disconnected or failed. P0222 is a failed APPS sensor that is not reporting the proper validation signals to the ECM.

There is only one other place for fuel to enter the crankcase which is the front seal of the VP44. Typically this could happen of the fuel pressure is driven well above 20 PSI on a weak or worn front VP44 seal. Most typically though the bad injector is the cause of the fuel in the oil.

Stock APPS sensor is safe at 0.4 to 0.5 volts. Timbo APPS doesn't have a voltage setting it completely mechanical. Wells APPS is safe at 0.5 to 0.6 volts. The voltage adjustment is not for anything else but the idle validation switches. This has zero to do with transmission shifting, or lock up.

Same here... What looks horrid is a leveled truck towing a trailer and having the headlights in the sky, rear bump sagging down like a squatting Ford. Best not to level the truck also fewer issues with the front axle

Way too many think you can toss a lift kit/leveling kit and larger tires and everything works. Sorry, it doesn't work that way you need to get the geometry of the front axle back to the way it was without the lift or leveling kit. Axle angles are all wrong after a lift. Typically longer control arms that adjustable will help as well as the adjustable track bar. Then you have to consider the leveraging forces of the larger tire and what it's doing to tie rod ends, wheel bearings and ball joints. Soi now you have to consider larger rational mass and larger leveraging forces on stock parts and people wonder why the "Cool Look" cost so much...

Two wire plug. Green and blue wires.

Set for level 1 and enjoy. Any sublevel will work. Any level 2-5 will still work but do nothing more than Level 1 because there is no wire tap.

Pull the field lead from the alternator when it starts happening. If it goes away then its AC noise from a failed diode. I've see rare cases where diodes break a solder joint and randomly make and break the connection. Where temperature could play a roll on how the broken part may expand and contract.

Typically we buy an AirDog or FASS fuel systems. Like myself, I've got a 11-year-old AirDog 150 and still working just fine. I was lucky and got one of the older Airdog pumps that were built the right way. You can run the CanBus connector but not the wire tap. I'm doing the same thing with my Quadzilla right now no wire tap but still running the CanBus.

No. All 6 injectors have to pulled and pop tested. There is no test that can be done without removal. No. Because you need to be able to see the nozzle and if it pissy as you rise up in pressure. It should remain closed till you reach pop pressure. As injectors wear the pop pressure gets lower and the injector becomes pissy. A failed injector(s) don't normal change in smoke or anything it might get a random misfire but not always. As pop pressure falls it just advancing timing. The spray quality might degrade and it might not. All depends on the failure. That's possible for the growing oil but would explain the loss of prime because the oil would seal the leak after the pressure faded. Crossover o-ring could produce a loss of prime but typically the manifold would be moist or wet with fuel from the leak.

Yeah I know. I'm pointing out the fact if the front band is getting low and thin the rest of the wearable parts like clutches (direct and over drive), torque converter clutch, and the rear band are going to be getting thin too. Very rare for just a single part to be getting thin and the rest are good yet. Typically they all wear out together...

Just remember Blue Chip is NOT on my list of Certified VP44 rebuilders. They do not have a Bosch 815 test stand either to test pumps or flash PSG's so this is why the sell pumps with USED PSG units.

You might be able to do this but how about the direct and overdrive clutches I bet they are getting low too.

Vulcan Performance sells industrial injection and DAP sells both industrial injection and midwest injection. Both rebuilders are certified Bosch rebuilders.

Even for owning a gasoline 5.9L V8 with a 46RE (Dynamic Built) transmission its head and shoulders above stock. 1-2 and 2-3 are very firm shifting and let you know that this is not a stock transmission. Gear hold back is much improved now compared to stock which was like putting the truck in neutral on a steep grade. MPG wise it can produce good MPG's as long as you not running excessive fast or playing too much on the streets. If I had a 47RE in a Cummins I would repeat the build again with Jon at Dynamic. No questions asked.

Just for the information value I'll post up what billet is all about. http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/billet-c.htm

You need to drop in once in awhile there is always someone talking transmissions here.

Error codes will not self-erase till 40 warm up cycles have been completed without any more errors recorded.

That article I need to complete putting the wiring maps into...

I would read over the link that @jlbayes posted and review you electrical for the ECM to the APPS. The signal for the PCM is between the ECM and PCM but typical its the APPS to ECM.