Mopar1973Man

I could do the same thing with my Jayco. I've found several joints that were a joke and the wood behind it damaged. Personally, I've got no love for butyl rubber and tend to peel all that junk out and replace with silicone.

I can see my VP44 getting closer and closer to me. Monday I should have my new pump in hand.

I bet the brushes worn out r the contacts.

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the 3,5,6 injection rails. This is so you can remove the 3,5,6 from the intake. Now there is a 8mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. This caught me off guard so don't forget to remove this 8mm bolt for the dipstick tube. Now loosen the 3,5,6 injection line from the head. Lift the 3,5,6 injection lines from the engine. Place them somewhere clean. Take the two 10mm bolts out holding the fuel filter housing. Then lay the fuel filter over out of the way. This might require removing the fuel lines if you still have hard lines yet. Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding the ECM to the tappet cover. Lay it over as well toward the driver side fender. Now you need to remove the 10mm bolt on the rear most holding the return line. Then there are three 16mm standoffs bolts you need to remove. Then three 10mm bolts. You may need to lightly pry on the cover to break the seal loose from the block. Be careful not to drop or break the rubber seal into the engine while doing this. It should lift out. Now take some brake cleaner and a rag and wash down the tappet cover and clean the edge. I use a gasket tack for the edge of the cover. I had to quickly put the gasket on so it would tack it together to prevent it from slipping off. Make sure the large tab is in the front and the flat side of the tab is point outwards. The thicker side should be towards the engine. Also watch for the FRONT mark on the tappet cover. Install. Make sure to put the right bolt in the right spots. I did not use any sealants on the face of the gasket. I highly do not suggest using RTV or gasket sealant on the mating face of the tappet cover gasket. This will most likely cause issues in the future. Just reverse the process to assemble. View full Cummins article

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal... View full Cummins article

So then I would be looking at cam sensor being it need to verify the engine RPM to VP44 RPM on the PSG. The fuel amount commanded or fuel amount you'll be able to see with the Quadzilla VP44 fuel message. So we need to look at the tachometer signal and cam signal would be my next thought.

It true I do have a power bug. BUT! I do know my limitations and how far I can go. I'm not going to do like @TFaoro or @jlbayes that is way beyond my needs or wants. I've always had it. I'm not going to deny that but my requirements are MUCH less than most. Actually, the MPG is the priority over the HP and TQ numbers. Nope. Not going to deny or go back. I love the feeling of grabbing a gear and the tires just ripping loose under the truck. Also fun to blast those puppies in Boise that think they got something and you eat them alive from light to light.

That be the one...

http://imgur.com/r/justrolledintotheshop/t962i Got to the link above and check this out. There are dangerous people on the road.

It's a special 5 point torx bit. Typical torx bits are 6 point. So you'll have to buy another torx bit to install the cover.

I just got done pulling the stealth cover off the old pump and replaced the cover. I'll most likely tap the wire again. The power is a bit addicting.

Seem like your going to be replacing a VP44... The way the error code reads. All you have to do is ohm from one end to the other. So VP44 to the ECM. Then while your ohm testing from end to end do an extra step of wire to ground and see if it report infinite ohms if so there are no shorts to ground. I kind of doubt the ECM is bad being the WTS is popping right on instantly and all other functions appear good. The P1691 is a PSG issue from what I understand. I think it's a typo in the document saying PCM because PCM has no connection on the fueling system at all. The P0121 code is a APPS issue. Basically the APPS voltage is most likely too high during the IDLE position of the validation switch causing this error. Need to verify the APPS voltage adjustment make sure your bottomed out and adding an extra 1/2 turn to the stop screw.

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the 3,5,6 injection rails. This is so you can remove the 3,5,6 from the intake. Now there is a 8mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. This caught me off guard so don't forget to remove this 8mm bolt for the dipstick tube. Now loosen the 3,5,6 injection line from the head. Lift the 3,5,6 injection lines from the engine. Place them somewhere clean. Take the two 10mm bolts out holding the fuel filter housing. Then lay the fuel filter over out of the way. This might require removing the fuel lines if you still have hard lines yet. Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding the ECM to the tappet cover. Lay it over as well toward the driver side fender. Now you need to remove the 10mm bolt on the rear most holding the return line. Then there are three 16mm standoffs bolts you need to remove. Then three 10mm bolts. You may need to lightly pry on the cover to break the seal loose from the block. Be careful not to drop or break the rubber seal into the engine while doing this. It should lift out. Now take some brake cleaner and a rag and wash down the tappet cover and clean the edge. I use a gasket tack for the edge of the cover. I had to quickly put the gasket on so it would tack it together to prevent it from slipping off. Make sure the large tab is in the front and the flat side of the tab is point outwards. The thicker side should be towards the engine. Also watch for the FRONT mark on the tappet cover. Install. Make sure to put the right bolt in the right spots. I did not use any sealants on the face of the gasket. I highly suggest against using RTV or gasket sealant on the mating face of the tappet cover gasket. This will most likely cause issues in the future. No sealants are required. Just reverse the process to assemble.

Standard 1 year warranty. No wire tap warranty. I'm going to risk it being the budget won't allow it. So run hard one month and then tap it afterward.

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal...

Whoa... Geez... The shop I deal with in Lewiston Idaho will pop test injectors for FREE! Now if you want them tuned they cost $15 an injector or $90 for all 6 to be retuned.

A good song I just heard on the radio today in Boise...

AC noise issue coming on. The need for APPS reset and then getting relief for a short time points to AC noise from the alternator driving the ECM nuts. Now if the second time does the same he need to test for AC noise and replace the alternator first thing.

It's a function of both units. Being the PCM creates the control for throttle but the ECM has to receive the signal. Like @dripley points out if the ECM isn't setup right it will cause issues. I've seen this before with a few others. It's still a ECM problem that causes the cruise issue.

This should help...

Send me a PM...

1,2,4 Injection lines 3,5,6 injection lines...

I can check it for runout. I've got a dial indicator on the shelf.