Mopar1973Man

Might gain some pressure but all depends on the weight pushing down on the air bags.

Give me some time I'll pull that article when I get home tomorrow.

Best to stay with steel and brass. Copper might erode some also copper tubing is prone to cracking typically and not suggested for fuel system usage.

Open the door and lift from the outside edge? Does the door lift or move a wee bit? If so you are going to need a hinge bushing kit. You can remove the brass bushing and replace both the pin and the bushings in the hinges. Typically the doors never need adjustment just the bushings wear out and the door sags. Like my truck I keep the hinges lubed and clean so there is still no wear in my doors. The worse case I've seen is the owner slamming the door till they broke the latch in the door and tore the sheet metal.

I've seen small slice of clear tubing the right thickness you can slice it length wise and saddle it over the edge of the pod for filler. It will snug up the gauge for you. If placed right you won't even see it.

Who did you steal yours from? I paid around $140 for my ISSPro EV2 gauge. I did get lucky and had a member here give me a GlowShift trans temp gauge and a pod. So I spent the day swapping gauges, and hardware around to get hooked up so the ISSPro was in my 02 and the GlowShift in the 96 Dodge. So you might put a ad up looking to buy a gauge and see if anyone answers. You might check with Vulcan Performance and DAP and see what they have for gauges and prices.

No kidding...

Looking over my books P0191 is "Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Performance Circuit". Basically, there is 2 things that can fail. Either the rail pressure sensor is not working correctly or the injectors have excessive return volume and CP3 is having trouble building rail pressure because injector issues might be coming on. Being common rail injector failures are rather "common" I would like to ask how much mielage do you have on the truck. If you have 100k or 150k miles or more then I highly suggest you pull all 6 injectors have then bench tested. If any fail then replace all 6 injectors. Because the other 5 will fail soon after.

No, you are not bound to name brand synthetics nor high priced lubricants...

Like with my OEM transmission the lower 5th gear had to be replaced because of the fact I wore the hard facing out of the inner hub of the gear where bearing rode. What was shocking was when I got it open up there was no metal in the fluid and just light dust on the magnet. In your case are you get a good sample from inside the transmission and not a junk sample from the fill hole threads? I normally take a windshield fluid bottle (1 gallon) and using a funnel I can drain the entire transmission into the bottle and then look at the fluid condition as a whole. Let is stand over night and let the particular settle then you can see how much carbon fiber was wore off.

Most hard shifting in not lube issues but clutch problems. If the clutch is not fully disengaging then the input shaft is still spinning some what, creating trouble for shift and engaging the syncro rings. This is kind of the reason people change fluids and then still things get worse because the issues was never addressed.

This is where doing the axle weight method will get you the best base number for tire pressures.

Just updated the article last night too...

Tread pattern isn't really an issue. Like Dave said it's the circumference that is the big thing. When its different from left to right on a differential then the spider gears are rolling constantly. With a limited slip it will be putting stress on the clutch I would assume.

Absolutely... I use the same thing on differentials and gear cases as well. No issues...

Ok... Same trailer then... Either way stock rake with no leveling always turns near level towing.

Electronics might not be calibrated to the mechanical part. Timing, fueling, etc. As I've shown the PSG isn't flashed till 3 hours of calibration and all test have passed.

Unmodified suspension, but perfect level for towing. This is why I typically will not suggest any leveling kits because a heavy trailer will automatically pull the nose up even on a stock suspension. So if you using a leveling kit then it always going to be possible to have a squatting truck. Like comparing to @Taz truck to mine I'm 3/4 ton towing 1,000 pounds more without any leveling kit. He's a 1 ton truck and 2" leveling kit and it squatting with light load little utility trailer.

I said the same thing to as a possible cause of the tail squatting. Now you have to remember he's got that heavy flat bed on the bad it much heavier than the stock bed too. I had him scale the truck last spring and it was like 8,9xx or 9,0xx pound truck roughly empty.

Here is his forum page. He goes by @Dynamic... https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

I think your getting scammed... Contact our site transmission guru and talk to him. I really doubt the entire transmission need rebuilt. Got nothing to lose in talking to Jon.

Just for info value. The truck above had my BigTex towing behind it with less than 7k worth of load. The rear axle was sitting on the helper springs. I've only got 35 PSI in the trailer tires. Again that is a one ton Dodge single rear.

Basically its replace what broken in the alternator test it and if it passes all test put it in the for sale pile. So brushes might be wore down to 10% but still passing. Diode is marginally passing still sell it. I'm going to see if I can round up parts to sell on the site store for quality alternator rebuilding.

Even Smarty is better...

I'm going to start hunting for a rebuild kits that are more user friendly. LarryB's are fine but the diode pack is very expensive.