Mopar1973Man

Glad your home safe and sound...

I'm still on the fence about the Luke's Links. I know it works but I see people on CF that fight the Luke's Link with constantly needing to adjust the device to keeping the joint's tight. Here I am still with OEM tie rod ends at 264k miles and rolling. I might have good luck with them being my steering appears to have littler wear issues compared to many other that seen to wear everything out in a few months time. Like coming down from Billy and Tony's place. Offroad quite a bit...

I finally beat my old MPG high mark of 27.20 now done it twice with 27.22 and 27.46 MPG. Just need that little bit more to go to reach 28 MPG.

I've got NAPA 3" flow through muffler and its quiet running as is. Larger pipe your 4" is adding extra noise too.

Very difficult typically the loosen creates it own knock sound because of low pressure. So it might be difficult. Still I would pop test all them to verify the condition then you can rule it out absolutely.

That will work. I don't see any problems there using studs like you've done. The locTite should work well with that self-locking nut.

Can you get a photo of the spent test strip and the color chart that goes with it? I'd like to see the information it provides.

Seriously??? Dave are you coming out? I wouldn't want to miss this for the world. Be able to meet a east coast buddy...

Your going to have to install a muffler of some sort. The longer, the quieter.

Leveling kit installed... Either hitch up or load up... It's level every time.

Do the diagnostic of the P0122 before just going out to buy an APPS.

First bug that hits the deer whistle will plug it up and stop working.

I've got to see this house when its done... Serious I'd love to see what you've done so far...

I just helped a guy load his Dodge truck up on a trailer today on my way home from McCall, ID... He hit a Elk and destroyed the nose of the truck. He had a grill guard but it didn't do very much for guarding the grill. The radiator was crushed into the fan. Fender on the driver side was crush pretty good to. You can see the tow hook actually entered the elk because there was plenty of bodily fluids on the hook. You need a pretty heavy duty bumper to prevent a deer or elk from doing damage.

Nice to see members spotting members...

Still I would start with having them pop tested to verify. Should cost anything to get a reading... At least the shop I deal with he does pop testing for free.

Absolutely...

I would start by having the injectors pop tested. Being it only knocks during fueling events that would be my first thought. Coasting the governor shuts the fuel down and doesn't pump. But idling, acceleration or constant speed it would knock because the injectors and pump is pumping. So if a injector had a problem it could be your knock.

Good to hear your doing OK for the moment. Thanks for the update... Be safe and take care of your family and yourself!

Those are correct square cut o-rings. You can get replacements from Geno's IIRC.

Any time you make changes to the front axle suspension I highly suggest for the adjustable track bar. Always best to have everything lined up that dog legged down the road. This is another reason I always suggest if your going to modify the front axle suspension you better off doing it properly and having it realigned. Way too many people think you can just toss spacers in and it all good. This where people with death wobble get there experience from poor front suspension modifications, poor alignment, wore out parts and out of balance over sized tires.

Like I know my problem is the front wheel bearing and the tone rings are screwed. My sensors, ABS module and everything else checks out fine.

Be thankful it didn't end like this where the deer make a leap. Bumper is great for the road height stuff but if it leaps up your screwed. A matter of fact I had to take a friend home last night at 9pm. He was looking at me why I travel so slow heading to Riggins, ID. I know where the deer hang out and where it common to bolt across the road.

I'd love to see this... Can you get a copy of this MSDS sheet. As for fuel additives most over the counter products are cetane boosters which is a bad thing MPG wise. This the key reason why MPG falls in the winter is the cetane value is increased in the winter time and the BTU's are reduced. 2 Cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer or a BTU increaser. As for HFRR you want a fuel score of less that 450 HFRR for optimal fuel system life. So the 2 cycle oil theory originally was started by a member here @dorkweed which started the idea I'm the one that pushed it forward. So if you got questions about 2 cycle oil usage and how it works chemically I'm sure I can fill your head with all kinds of information. Most 2 cycle oil today is mostly highly refined oil that is ashless no soft metals like zinc added. So I've got a hard time believing the 2 cycle oil being mostly kerosene... I'd still like to see. I know Supertech is produced by PennzOil. SuperTech 2 Cycle Oil. http://ilrc.ucf.edu/documents/ILRC 00000639/NCFS_639 Super Tech Universal 2 Cycle.pdf As for my injection pump its got 214k miles on it and still going strong. I've been using 2 cycle oil for over 183k miles with no impact to the fuel system, filters, injectors or injection pump. Oh try and catch me now on the MPG numbers...

If the cruise control or the speedometer is acting goofy then I would replace the rear speed sensor.