Mopar1973Man

Good questions... Bill???

Had mine rebuilt. New bearings, new syncros, new 5th gear (lower), updated main shaft (being I broke the old one).

One day in the future I know I'll be changing a pan gasket too. It's nice to know either way will work and get the pan out.

175*F is nothing to worry about. Now yes I do see some serious summer temperatures here ranging around 110-115*F in the summer but its short lived. Now my winter temps are minus as I head south to New Meadows, ID and even more south of that. Again the extreme cold is short lived too. So the coolers I would consider if I was in the desert and seeing much more hot periods. Being I'm running that 50 SAE synthetic transmission fluid and most likely going to shorten my change interval to 50k miles. Just doing quick look for max running temperatures for the fluid I'm using there is nothing per say set in stone. Looking around most average answer says max operational temperature is 240-260*F roughly. I've still got the warning light in the ISSPro set for 220*F. Might bump down to 200*F but first I got to see some heavy towing to get a feel for what I'll see then readjust accordingly. As for the wire the full length of the sensor lead was used and still got a bit of slack under the dash. So the supplied wire that ISSPro provides is plenty.

Yes from 15 MPH and down is blocked. Here is the sensor stuff in the case. I'm going to say that I'm going to be studying really hard the changes of what the gear lubricant is going to do which its a lighter viscosity than the original NV4500 fluid. I'm also going to watch for MPG changes if any can be found.

Well so far I got the bushing installed. Just driving back from New Meadows, ID to home I was hard pressed to even reach 120*F. So on the way home I ran up Elk Lake Rd which is another steep canyon road in 2 miles I was really hard pressed to barely touch 140*F. Back on the pavement and rolling 65 MPH temperature dropped to 115-120*F roughly. This transmission isn't making much heat. Now to say I do realize the gears are flinging the oil every where inside the gear case. So over filling isn't exactly a requirement. So this is with the Mobil Delvac 50 SAE Synthetic Transmission Fluid being measured by a ISSPro EV2 gauge. My Edge Comp also took a relocation under the column since I rarely change the setting. More to come...

Yea... Just hardware store stuff. Matter of fact I'm heading to the hardware store to finish up the trans temp gauge install. I need a 3/4" to 1/2" like seen in my picture.

Your right Cowboy it is a 3/4" NPT. Darn it I need to go to town to finish the gauge install.

Now that's funny...

Because the plug in the head is already 3/4" I know this is a poor picture but you can see my two bushings 3/4" to 1/2" and the 1/2" to 1/8" then boost gauge. At least the line isn't in the way and won't get broke doing basic work like valve adjustments or injector work. Also the boost bolt is easy to break off being its a hollow bolt.

You might want to relocate the boost down on the side of the head rear of the fuel filter. There is a 3/4" pipe plug. I can see that tube being broke every time you do a valve adjustment or busting the line when loosening that injector line. As for injector lines like Dripley said as long as the lines are not leaking out on the head there isn't anything to worry about. You might check the return tee at the back of the head and the banjo at the rear of the head to common leak spots.

I'm pretty sure a 1/2" to 1/8" bushing will fit just fine. I laid on the floor quick and checked and it look like it will fly/ As for being submerged that why I'll add about 1/2 quart through the top of the transmission being slightly over filled.

Not going to work. I was wondering about thread and pitch because I would pull the plug out possibly replace it with a 1/2" to 1/8" bushing and stick a trans temp sensor in the hole. Then toss another 1/2 quart of fluid in so it submerged. Thanks to @Killer223 for sending me a trans temp gauge and pod.

Anyone happen to know what size plug and thread the fill plug on the NV4500 is?

I thought my truck was dirty...Randy you need to take some purple power ot that beast and garden hose at least...

Yeah... If it not coming up with speed and lagging for period before showing then the sensor is shot.

Must vary for year to year because there is no locking of my plug just pull. As for removing the sensor I'm going to bet you'll end up breaking it. Now don't panic. There is no sense in opening the differential you won't be able to reach the sensor hole. So what I did is continue to pry inward to relieve tension on the shell then pull it straight up with needle nose pilers.

I've already replaced all my pressure and suction lines to the new black hose from Eric @ Vulcan Performance. I still go the old school blue yet on the return line.

I'm also running a generic 16" wheel and tires hang out just about a inch from the fenders. I also lost my factory wheels to the same issue few years back where 3 of the 4 wheels where cracked and not leaking quite yet. Personally if I had the fund I would get a nicer set of wheels with proper offset being I'm getting tired of the mud flung my the tires all up the side of the truck and also sprays the RV behind me rather well right to the roof. I might not update to 17" or 18" for the sole reason I like to run a bit softer tire pressure when I'm out cutting firewood. Much easier on the truck and me not to get beat to death with the wash board roads and potholes. Where getting 17" and 18" the side profile gets shorter and shorter becomes easier to damage wheels now.

Either mechanical or electric either as long as its a stand alone.

Not even close to accurate. Just change the ECT sensor value and you can vary up or down pressure as much as 40 PSI and never actually change oil pressure. The last time I checked mine it was actually about 20-25 PSI higher than the dash gauge.

This is what got me for my choice on the NV4500 oils also being that Weller Truck highly suggest the 50 SAE Transmission fluid.

Here are some better quality pictures of the failed shaft...

TFaoro is right it just slide back and no longer mesh with the other gear. The other problem is most people can't tight it down to the correct torque no less too. So this why there is an issue with 5th gear nuts. Like with the updated shaft I learned it suppose to be torqued to 450 ft/lbs. I think the OEM shaft is somewhere in the 300 ft/lbs bracket. I've seen a bunch of YouTube Redneck fixes including hammer and chisel or a pipe wrench to tighten the nut back on. Like most will say to upgrade the main shaft. If your going that far you might as well do fresh bearings and syncros. I've just went down this road with a rebuilt of the transmission.

I got it all done and installed just before 4pm. Did my strap trick again. Worked good. So two ratchet straps to lift it off the floor. Then once I was able to roll the floor jack under it. Take notice to the ratchet strap over the top tied to the pivot of the jack. Ended up being the perfect angle to install. Still kept the other two ratchet straps as safety just in case. As for cleaning up everything I found a degreaser that is super strong. Be careful using it on aluminum it will blacken the aluminum if left on too long. 3,000 PSI power washer blew the junk right off. As for the transmission shifts good. Really tight and notchy for the first few rows through the gears. After about 15 miles it smoothed right right out.